Hey gang... OK, I have a 2012 model, with ABS etc. And...I've changed/repaired many flats on my trusty old XR 600..so I'm not fearful of Tyre irons etc. Here what I'm thinking ...: - My bikes runs tubes, front and back right..? ie stock as I purchased it..its only done 3000km ;-) - is there anything tricky about getting the wheels off on the trail..? Any special tools needed other than what it in the factory tool set.? - anything tricky about breaking the beads..? - the bike doesn't use rim locks ...how so for such a powerful mother of a beast..??? That's what leads me to think there is something 'not normal' about these wheels/tyres (pirelli scorpions) . - once patched the tube..any tricks about pumping it up etc..? I have a hand pump...it'll take a while I know but bottles wouldn't be big enough and I don't want to carry a compressor ..ideas though??? - will it seat OK etc after..sometimes on the old XR it was challenging ..and those tyres were no where near as full on etc. Has anyone made up a video etc..? I did some quick searching but appols if this is well covered somewhere, if so please just post the links ;-)
I've only seen one 990 trailside tire repair, but it was pretty straightforward. We couldn't get the bead to set properly on the trail with a hand pump, so we got it close enough and rode to a gas station. IIRC it took about 80 psi to pop, using a little wd-40 for lube.
I (and I'm sure many others) have changed tyres numerous times on the side of the trail. the rim is slightly unusual having a sort of ledge that the bead sits on with a secondary smaller bump on it that in normality would be behind the bead. don't let that worry you though, changing the tyre is the same process but is a little tougher to do especially if the tyres been on for a while or its cold I always use motion pro alloy levers and whilst I sometimes have to work the tyre for a bit it's always come off, Heidanaus, pirellis, Mefos, TKC's and Michelin Deserts seating some of them is a pain, even with a garage compressor, don't sweat it though, max out the compressor (I often use an 8" hand pump) and ride for 2-3 minutes, it will be a lumpy ride but the tyre will warm and seat itself
Back tyre is a PITA to change due to that safety lip. Took about 40cm of it off with a belt sander and leveled it down till it was smooth with the rim:eek1. Did the section opposing the valve so I know where to start with the tyre irons and to help keep balance No downside so far and helps break that bead.
Best way to break the rear tire bead is to place bike on center stand. Take rear wheel off. Put the side stand down ( I've welded a bigger foot on mine ) Place the rear tire under the side stand. Rock the bike over on the center stand, using the side stand foot to break the bead. The front bead is usually easy to break with boot pressure. It's a good idea to practice all this at home first. Max
do this as indicated below..If you're riding with anoother bike, use their kickstand. I carry a 12V compressor from Aerostich and have no problems setting the bead. Unfortunately I've had the occaision to use it a fair number of times. It's small, light and works. I've even used it to air up car tires in a pinch. Also the aluminum Motion Pro tire irons, work for the rear axle nut and they weigh nothing. I'd be interested to know what you all carry for Tire lube, and how you carry it (what container)
Remember to include the bit where you tie the center stand to something up front so it doesn't fold up accidentally. :huh
+ on grinding off the safety bead. 40cm seems like too much, that's almost 16". Would recommend more like 8" or 18cm. Once done you can pop it off by hand. You must use lube to get it back on. Oil is not a good idea for long term, only emergencies. If you carry soap and mix it with a little water it will lube it enough to pop with only 20psi. Soap won't effect the rubber.
I carry a small bottle of RuGlyde or Simple Green. Both work well and if you let it sit on the bead for a bit, it makes popping the bead MUCH easier. I've heard some folks use Chapstick in a pinch to re-seat the tire.
This was taken years ago at one of our early tech weekends. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uzgHVjXZwoM It still works today on all the tires that I have dis-mounted. -Scorpion -908 -K60 -TKC80 -Teraflex It's good to have this in your bag of tricks out on the tail. Like many have said. Practice at home, makes it easier on the trail.
While the sidestand (and center stand) trick works well, be very careful about NOT putting the rotor side down on the ground when you start - especially if you have a newer KTM with the free floating rotors. You can put the sprocket side down or even better pop the sproket off and put the hub on the ground. Cardboard or a shop towel can help keep it clean in the process (if you're trailside). The video above is done correctly.
There is a 1 x1" block I use in the shop to rest the rim on (sidestand side) to get the hub up off the ground. (shown in video) On the trail I'll look for a branch or dig a small ditch if need be. (to keep the rotor off the ground. Gotta do what can when on the side of the road. If you looking for a cheap, strong drop cloth for the trails. You can wrap your tire irons in a USPS shipping bag. They are "Tyvek". Strong, light weight, and Free.
Looks like a good time to post this image again: The short story: Riding 2-up in the middle of the desert we got a screw in the rear tire. The safety bead didn't hold so the tire was already loose. I was transferring tire irons between this 950 Adventure and my 950 SE and hadn't put them back on the Adventure for the ride. I got the idea to try using the short axle tools as tire irons and due to the Adv's large drop center wheel it was easy to dismount one side of the tire and replace the tube. I got the tire back on with my foot (in boots) only -no tools at all. Pumped it up with a small electric slime pump and rode home. Longer story is here.
Pretty ingenious Yardstick. You must have a lot of experience. My old 2004 950A had a particularly high safety bead molded into the rim. I am told the 2006 and later models have a more friendly rim. In my case, I bought a custom bead breaker I could carry and I ground off some of the safety bead by simply running the thing in 2nd gear on the center stand and holding a file to the safety bead of a bare rim. Then I ground 10 inches of the safety bead off completely, opposite the stem and painted a spoke to mark it. Worked for 7 years for me with a few trailside flat fixes or tire replacements. I used WD40 as a lube and Cyclepump for inflation. The front could use a little trail jack to hold it up when pulling that wheel, but I generally used a Gobi case. Today I ride a Yam wrr and a KTM 690R. They are much easier to spoon rubber. Part of it is because the tires are softer. I use a compact trail jack for those bikes. Don't even need a center stand.
