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-   -   the DR650 thread (http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=135295)

ThomasVolomitz 02-15-2011 02:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BergDonk (Post 15197789)
Its not possible to 'finish' a bike :jack

Steve

You are correct. Especially with a DR 650 and Procycle!!!

Rusty Rocket 02-15-2011 03:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thumpididump (Post 15197732)
While the OEM bearings are decent quality, they are not sealed on both sides. For this reason, I would choose the All Balls (or Moose) every time.

ProCycle has a rear wheel bearing kit that includes the sprocket hub bearing. It is AllBalls I believe an I think it'ss just as good as the OEM stuff. They also have the hub drive cushions. I did all this at once on my DR650 and it was so much better afterwards.

Jammin 02-15-2011 03:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Adv Grifter (Post 15191251)
Jay,
Clearance wise you should be fine with the 140 tire. But depending on the profile of the new Heidenau, it could change handling ... probably will make it a bit sluggish to turn. If possible, I would stay with the 130 tire. Remember, the DR650 is actually spec'd for a 120 section tire ... and handles beautifully with that tire. I've used a NEW 120 back to back with a NEW 130 tire. Both were OK, but I COULD feel the difference. The 120 turned sharper and really "Fell" into turns. The 130 was OK but was just a bit slow to turn and react.

Just my '02 cents.

Safe going as always Jay ... (loved the Brazil pics!) :freaky

Yeah, I know a 120 is stock, so I didn't know if 2 sizes up would work. Good to know. Thx.

With the panniers and it being heavily loaded, I dont think I want the bike to 'fall' on its own :lol3 anymore than it does with my input :wink:

thumpididump 02-15-2011 03:30 PM

Bought a pair of Pelican 1430 top-loading cases today. Not exactly sure how yet, but I'm planning to mount them for use as panniers.

They're not giant but they should inspire me to pack light. Waterproof, indestructible. Inside dimensions are about 14" x 6" x 12" (storage capacity translates to ~ 17 Litres each).

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...2-15161525.jpg

bobbob 02-15-2011 05:27 PM

DR650 to big bore 780cc
 
Thinking about doing a big bore 780 cc kit on my DR650. KIT FROM PRO CYCLE on back order now. Hp up to about 60 HP that would be sweet. Like some input on this idea. ENGINE is stock now. Will add the TM40 at same time if I decide to do this. Anyone else do this? What about gas (MPG that is)

LexTalionis 02-15-2011 06:51 PM

BergDonk
 
Thanks for the advice about torque wrenches, I didn't learn about the middle of the range caveat until late in life. Once I did, I purchased torque wrenches in 1/2" and 3/8" sizes and for the first valve swap on my KLR I added a tiny inchfoot torque wrench - for the camshaft caps. It's handy when tightening the bolts on the clutch pressure disk also. And, about 5 years ago I had a mechanic friend take my wrenches to a friend of his to test their accuracy - all were within 2% accurate, and all inaccuracy was on the high side (so I wouldn't be over-tightening the fasteners).

I'm going to use brake cleaner on a Q-tip followed by a judicious shot of compressed air to dry the treads.

Lex

Quote:

Originally Posted by BergDonk (Post 15197735)
I Loctited mine in and feel that is enough. Blue, 'nut' strength. I lay the bike over on its side and leave the oil in when doing the work. Place the left handlebar end on the workstand and no damage is done. With Loctite its important to clean the threads. To do this in the cases, I use canned, aerosol brake cleaner to flush any oil through. Excess will mostly evaporate off, and any that blends with the oil will be removed at the oil change that happens after.

If using a torque wrench to assemble, remember that they are mostly only accurate around the middle of their range, ie 1/4 - 3/4. For 10 nm a 20 nm wrench is ideal. Among others, I have one like this: http://justtools.com.au/prod1776.htm

Once reassembled, start and check for oil leaks, then do an oil change if all good. This should remove any contamination that got in when the surgery was in train.

Steve


LexTalionis 02-15-2011 06:56 PM

I sit here, amazed that I never thought of that! I only recall the pics of the drilled hex head screws.

Looks like I'll be buying replacement allen head screws and do the drilling before taking apart my bike.

Thanks!

Lex

Quote:

Originally Posted by BergDonk (Post 15197844)
PS, If drilling screws freehand, its easier to use allen head screws. You only have to dill one side, and its a lot less drilling so you are less likely to break a drill.Steve


danbeck 02-15-2011 06:58 PM

Mpe
 
One for any other Australians out there. Anyone had their DR's suspension worked on by MPE? Happy with the result?

LexTalionis 02-15-2011 07:14 PM

Pelican cases
 
I have never seen top-loading Pelican cases. The side-loading cases look good on bikes, but are a PITA to use unless taken off the bike to access the contents. I wonder why Caribou Motorcycle Luggage doesn't offer these top-loaders.

I look forward to seeing how the cases look on your DR, and your mounting solution. I'm imagining these smaller cases would look great on my black '09.

Lex

Quote:

Originally Posted by thumpididump (Post 15198152)
Bought a pair of Pelican 1430 top-loading cases today. Not exactly sure how yet, but I'm planning to mount them for use as panniers.

They're not giant but they should inspire me to pack light. Waterproof, indestructible. Inside dimensions are about 14" x 6" x 12" (storage capacity translates to ~ 17 Litres each).

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...2-15161525.jpg


ohiofathead 02-15-2011 07:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thumpididump (Post 15197732)
While the OEM bearings are decent quality, they are not sealed on both sides. For this reason, I would choose the All Balls (or Moose) every time.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket (Post 15198017)
ProCycle has a rear wheel bearing kit that includes the sprocket hub bearing. It is AllBalls I believe an I think it'ss just as good as the OEM stuff. They also have the hub drive cushions. I did all this at once on my DR650 and it was so much better afterwards.


Thanks, guys. I'll get the stuff from ProCycle.

planemanx15 02-15-2011 07:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Josh_TN (Post 15173025)
I am fabbing up a dual headlight mount. I am going to use 2 Hella 500's with 35 watt HIDs installed. I plan on low beam being 1 light & high beam being both on.

Here's my question:
Will the factory wiring & headlight switch support the 70 watts when both lights are burning?

Thinking about doing the same thing but with these ebay HID projection lights for jeeps. I want to build a mount for them and do the (almost) same thing as you, 1 light on for the low beam/high beam and a second switch to turn on the second.

Been trying to find another fairing to mount above the light and an oval metal bar to go around the lights for a bit of protection. I think the Buell fairing is really nice...

I've recently started to research the Buell headlight setup, and seems like an easy way to get a new, stock looking finish (thanks to Krusty for that info!).

FloridaSteve 02-15-2011 07:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LexTalionis (Post 15199988)
I have never seen top-loading Pelican cases. The side-loading cases look good on bikes, but are a PITA to use unless taken off the bike to access the contents. I wonder why Caribou Motorcycle Luggage doesn't offer these top-loaders.

I look forward to seeing how the cases look on your DR, and your mounting solution. I'm imagining these smaller cases would look great on my black '09.

Lex

+1 I really prefer the top loaders. I always wondered if anyone made quality, dedicated cases like this. Anxious to see how it turns out.

Lee Dodge 02-15-2011 07:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Josh_TN (Post 15173025)
I am fabbing up a dual headlight mount. I am going to use 2 Hella 500's with 35 watt HIDs installed. I plan on low beam being 1 light & high beam being both on.

Here's my question:
Will the factory wiring & headlight switch support the 70 watts when both lights are burning?

It will probably support the load but there are some issues with your plan that might make it impractical.

1. The hella 500 you want for a low beam has driving lights optics which means no cutoff for the beam. Unless you aim it so low it will be useless you're going to blind oncoming traffic. Even if you use the fog version, hid's in halogen optics create lots of glare and poor beam patterns.

2. For the high beam side, again poor beam pattern with hid in a halogen reflector. In addition to that an hid takes a while to come up to brightness. Its not instant like a halogen or led. Also the constant on-off switching will kill the system in short order.

If you decide to try it anyway, post some pics and let us know how it works out.

thumpididump 02-15-2011 08:06 PM

I've seen them used before. In fact, I've seen a few threads:

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=300376

I wish they were just a little tiny bit bigger. The jump to the next size is huge (way too big), so the 1430 is the only top-loader that's of any practical size.

I still need to come up with a rack. I've been thinking about making my own, but I've also thought about adapting the Wolfman racks, or perhaps using the MotoSport racks. Dunno yet.

Before I start working on a way to mount these panniers, I need to finish the RMZ fork swap, and get my rebuilt rear shock installed. Too many farkling projects, not enough time (or $$). :rofl



Quote:

Originally Posted by LexTalionis (Post 15199988)
I have never seen top-loading Pelican cases. The side-loading cases look good on bikes, but are a PITA to use unless taken off the bike to access the contents. I wonder why Caribou Motorcycle Luggage doesn't offer these top-loaders.

I look forward to seeing how the cases look on your DR, and your mounting solution. I'm imagining these smaller cases would look great on my black '09.

Lex


TeeVee 02-15-2011 08:57 PM

Axle Nut Sizes...
 
Ok, so I searched the thread and the sticky and have come up with conflicting answers...

What r the axle nut sizes on the 2008?

TIA

HMT 02-15-2011 09:17 PM

LED License Plate Light
 
I am installing the pro cycle plate holder and LED license plate light on my 2009. Anyone know which wires to pair up? Brown (bike) to Red (light) ... or Black/White to Red? :ear

Thanks.

MarkGS 02-15-2011 09:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TeeVee (Post 15200938)
Ok, so I searched the thread and the sticky and have come up with conflicting answers...

What r the axle nut sizes on the 2008?

TIA

19mm up front for sure. Not sure on the back.

thumpididump 02-15-2011 09:32 PM

I am 99% certain the rear axle nut is a 24mm


Quote:

Originally Posted by MarkGS (Post 15201229)
19mm up front for sure. Not sure on the back.


Grizz Adams 02-15-2011 09:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TeeVee (Post 15200938)
Ok, so I searched the thread and the sticky and have come up with conflicting answers...

What r the axle nut sizes on the 2008?

TIA

10 mm on front stud nuts.19 mm front axle. Rear is 22 & 24 mm. There are wrenches in your factory tool kit that fit these if you are in a bind.

YnotJP? 02-15-2011 10:30 PM

HMT, I did the Procycle kit for the taillight, lic. holder and LED lic. light, on my 2009 and all of the wire colors matched the stock.

Took about 1/2 an hour to do. I hope this helps.

It sure does look nicer also.

PAL 02-16-2011 04:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TrophyHunter (Post 15191695)
Rasthomas & PAL.....great bikes. One thing about the DR...you can make it your own. Nice to see the differences.

PAL - I think I see the frame guards on there...been eyeing those as I'm gonna sand my paint off in short order with my boots. Like? No Like?

Thx for posting the pics.

I like the frame gaurds. They protect the paint and protect the rear brake cyclinder to a degree. I also think they look great. They are made here in Australia by B&B Engineering. B&B also make the bashplate for my DR. The only other Aussie sourced parts are my Hand gaurds, Safari tank, pannier racks and the case saver that wraps around the front sprocket (I cracked the old one). Everything else is from Procycle.

PAL 02-16-2011 04:41 AM

Thought you guys would be interested in these DVD's.

Its a series of DVD's called MOTORBIKIN'. Most of the rides feature tricked up DR's crossing all parts of Australia. The link I have posted takes you to the Bike Picture page. Some very nice equipment.

See what you think.

http://www.motorbikin.com.au/page/the_bikes.html

TrophyHunter 02-16-2011 06:53 AM

Thx PAL. Some of the heaviest looking DR's I've seen. I'll consider the frame guards.

LED - I confirmed the wiring by just trying one way with the key on, then the other. The draw is so low I didn't feel there'd be a "short" problem. Worked fine.

Rusty Rocket 02-16-2011 06:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ohiofathead (Post 15200022)
Thanks, guys. I'll get the stuff from ProCycle.

Go look, it's probably already in your mailbox.:D Mine came that quickly.

Rusty Rocket 02-16-2011 07:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HMT (Post 15201124)
I am installing the pro cycle plate holder and LED license plate light on my 2009. Anyone know which wires to pair up? Brown (bike) to Red (light) ... or Black/White to Red? :ear

Thanks.

You'll have to determine by using your battery. Whichever wire lights up the brighter LED set, should be connected to the W/B (white w/black tracer) wire. W/B is your brake lamp.

Grizz Adams 02-16-2011 09:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by planemanx15 (Post 15200079)
Thinking about doing the same thing but with these ebay HID projection lights for jeeps. I want to build a mount for them and do the (almost) same thing as you, 1 light on for the low beam/high beam and a second switch to turn on the second.

Been trying to find another fairing to mount above the light and an oval metal bar to go around the lights for a bit of protection. I think the Buell fairing is really nice...

I've recently started to research the Buell headlight setup, and seems like an easy way to get a new, stock looking finish (thanks to Krusty for that info!).

I am going to keep the stock fairing and remove the factory headlight out of it. I will put up some pictures when I get thing fabbed up. I am making the bracket and hoop myself in the shop.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lee Dodge (Post 15200278)
It will probably support the load but there are some issues with your plan that might make it impractical.

1. The hella 500 you want for a low beam has driving lights optics which means no cutoff for the beam. Unless you aim it so low it will be useless you're going to blind oncoming traffic. Even if you use the fog version, hid's in halogen optics create lots of glare and poor beam patterns.

2. For the high beam side, again poor beam pattern with hid in a halogen reflector. In addition to that an hid takes a while to come up to brightness. Its not instant like a halogen or led. Also the constant on-off switching will kill the system in short order.

If you decide to try it anyway, post some pics and let us know how it works out.

I appreciate the input. I am also a little concerned how it will turn out. But since I haven't heard of anyone else trying this, I thought I would give it a go. If it fails miserably then I am out $100 and can put the lights on my Jeep!

One other thing, lots of guys seem to use the HID kit in the stock headlight housing which has a halogen reflector, so I guess there is a chance it may work out.

I may end up wiring them to both just stay on with a master kill switch so that when I am trail riding I can turn them off.

Pics to follow.

FloridaSteve 02-16-2011 09:49 AM

Damm... that site's made me all wobbly. Great Stuff!

Quote:

Originally Posted by PAL (Post 15202560)
Thought you guys would be interested in these DVD's.

Its a series of DVD's called MOTORBIKIN'. Most of the rides feature tricked up DR's crossing all parts of Australia. The link I have posted takes you to the Bike Picture page. Some very nice equipment.

See what you think.

http://www.motorbikin.com.au/page/the_bikes.html


RamMan4x4 02-16-2011 10:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HMT (Post 15201124)
I am installing the pro cycle plate holder and LED license plate light on my 2009. Anyone know which wires to pair up? Brown (bike) to Red (light) ... or Black/White to Red? :ear

Thanks.


B/W is negative per the wiring diagram. So you need to solder the red on the LED to the brown on the harness and the black on the LED to the B/W on the harness. I did this recently...but couldn't remember hence the need for the wiring diagram.

Link to online diagram (also in the DR650 service manual)
http://tiltpen.net/DR650/640x480/Wiring7.jpg

ADVBedouin 02-16-2011 10:32 AM

Check out the self locking (non-cotter pin) nut Procycle stocks, they work well & look good.
Quote:

Originally Posted by TeeVee (Post 15200938)
Ok, so I searched the thread and the sticky and have come up with conflicting answers...

What r the axle nut sizes on the 2008?

TIA


Grizz Adams 02-16-2011 10:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ADVBedouin (Post 15204637)
Check out the self locking (non-cotter pin) nut Procycle stocks, they work well & look good.

That is what my 2008 came with when I bought the bike new.

eakins 02-16-2011 11:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ADVBedouin (Post 15204637)
Check out the self locking (non-cotter pin) nut Procycle stocks, they work well & look good.

at some point suzuki switched over to a fuji-nut on the rear axel.
i bought mine from dual-star years ago.
they also did it to the strom in 07 i think and i suspect other bikes in their lineup that were using the old-school castle-nut.

LucasLeader 02-16-2011 11:49 AM

3000!
 
Anyone have a line on cheap tires? I'm hating myself now for missing that sale on the D606's from motorcycle superstore. They still aren't that expensive, but I'm looking for something along those lines and wondering if anyone has sniffed out an even better deal. I go through rear tires pretty fast, so the cheaper the better.

thumpididump 02-16-2011 12:01 PM

Personally, I find the Michelin T63 is a better value. ... shipped for free if you spend $100. A pair is only $112. They perform quite well offroad, and for tread life, they last similar to the Continental TCK-80.

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...T.ac=SLIsearch




Quote:

Originally Posted by LucasLeader (Post 15205251)
Anyone have a line on cheap tires? I'm hating myself now for missing that sale on the D606's from motorcycle superstore. They still aren't that expensive, but I'm looking for something along those lines and wondering if anyone has sniffed out an even better deal. I go through rear tires pretty fast, so the cheaper the better.


Rusty Rocket 02-16-2011 12:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thumpididump (Post 15205345)
Personally, I find the Michelin T63 is a better value. ... shipped for free if you spend $100. A pair is only $112. They perform quite well offroad, and for tread life, they last similar to the Continental TCK-80.

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...T.ac=SLIsearch

Also, Kenda TrackMaster II 103/90-17 http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...Rear-Tire.aspx
and a Bridgestone ED-03 front. http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...ront-Tire.aspx

Good for aggressive offroad. Probably won't last as long on the tar as Dunlop, but better price and I believe better offroad

newride 02-16-2011 12:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by newride (Post 15192382)
Does anyone know off the top of their head what mm size the one nut is that holds on the clutch basket? Is it 25 or 26 mm? Its the nut with the tab that you have to bend to get off.
Thanks

Bump. Anyone?
Sorry have limited resources and Hawaii is quite a pain in the ass to travel all over the island to find the correct socket size.
Thanks!

Al Tuna 02-16-2011 12:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by newride (Post 15205522)
Bump. Anyone?
Sorry have limited resources and Hawaii is quite a pain in the ass to travel all over the island to find the correct socket size.
Thanks!

This link says 27mm
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...ostcount=25666

newride 02-16-2011 01:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Al Tuna (Post 15205589)

Thank you so much!!!

joefromsf 02-16-2011 02:27 PM

Dirt-Bagz and DR650 mounting racks for sale
 
I think I've seen others post about DR specific items they have for sale in the Flea Market here. If its OK I'll post the link here once. If its not OK I will delete.

I've got a set of lightly used Dirt-Bagz and DR mounting racks for sale here: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=658974

Thanks.

Redbean 02-16-2011 02:37 PM

Installing Dynojet kit.
Looking for fuel mixture plug so I can drill it and remove it, so fuel mixture can be ajusted. Where is it? Can't tell up from down in illistration that came with kit.

ShadyRascal 02-16-2011 02:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Redbean (Post 15206450)
Installing Dynojet kit.
Looking for fuel mixture plug so I can drill it and remove it, so fuel mixture can be ajusted. Where is it? Can't tell up from down in illistration that came with kit.


Underneath.

BergDonk 02-16-2011 02:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ShadyRascal (Post 15206522)
Underneath.

at the front, ie the engine side.

Redbean 02-16-2011 02:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ShadyRascal (Post 15206522)
Underneath.

Thanks,

On the bottom of the float bowl? Don't see a plug under there but do see a threaded rather deep screw hole. Would need a very small screw driver to get to the screw?

ShadyRascal 02-16-2011 02:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Redbean (Post 15206585)
Thanks,

On the bottom of the float bowl? Don't see a plug under there but do see a threaded rather deep screw hole. Would need a very small screw driver to get to the screw?

Front of that on carb body, see post simultaneous with yours.

Redbean 02-16-2011 03:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ShadyRascal (Post 15206589)
Front of that on carb body, see post simultaneous with yours.

See a alluminum protudence on the carb body on the engine side, there is a rusty machine screw coming out of it, the head of the screw is broken off. Bought the bike with 350 miles on it from a dealer.

This rusty screw is between two threaded hole on the carb body it is not in the middle of the two unused threaded holes.

FloridaSteve 02-16-2011 03:03 PM

Wow! Page 3000! Just thought someone should mention it :1drink

Edit: Doh! too late lol

ShadyRascal 02-16-2011 03:05 PM

http://www.southbayriders.com/forums...hmentid=264886

#9 in this picture.



Here it is with the adjustable screw installed.



http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:A...hWg1uRlRPu&t=1

Redbean 02-16-2011 03:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ShadyRascal (Post 15206644)

#9 in this picture.



Here it is with the adjustable screw installed.




Yep, that's it, but mine has a rusty screw coming out of it with the head broken off.:cry

Have finished installation but for this last step.

Redbean 02-16-2011 03:26 PM

Thanks guys, got it pulled on rusty screw, is had what was left of the plug on it. Going to botton it up and check it out.

HMT 02-16-2011 03:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RamMan4x4 (Post 15204527)
B/W is negative per the wiring diagram. So you need to solder the red on the LED to the brown on the harness and the black on the LED to the B/W on the harness. I did this recently...but couldn't remember hence the need for the wiring diagram.

Link to online diagram (also in the DR650 service manual)
http://tiltpen.net/DR650/640x480/Wiring7.jpg

Thanks!

Been a long time since I've studied any wiring diagrams. :huh

Red to brown it is! :clap

I'll finish this and the DRZ tail light as well. Will make her much more svelte ... :wink:

Mongle 02-16-2011 04:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by procycle (Post 15192150)
The secret to getting any of the post mounted windscreens just right is not to be afraid to bend the mounting posts. They are a very pure aluminum alloy and will easily bend enough to make fitting the screen much easier. I bent mine to a 90 degree angle which allowed my to get the screen behind the headlight cowl.


I saw pics of your guys black DR and was wondering how you got it behind the headlight cowl! The secret is out! I tried every combination of mounting and couldn't get it behind without a steep downward angle. :lol3 That thing is deffinately an errector set! Ofcourse, bending a new windscreen never came to mind...:D

Mongle 02-16-2011 04:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by newride (Post 15205522)
Bump. Anyone?
Sorry have limited resources and Hawaii is quite a pain in the ass to travel all over the island to find the correct socket size.
Thanks!


If you don't have a 27mm an 1 1/16 is very close (.0005" diffrence). Most metric sockets OVER 26mm are within a thousandth of the SAE sockets. Use a good six point socket and you shouldn't have any trouble.

thumpididump 02-16-2011 04:45 PM

If you set your preferences to display 100 posts per page, then it's only 451 pages!

:D



Quote:

Originally Posted by FloridaSteve (Post 15206637)
Wow! Page 3000! Just thought someone should mention it :1drink

Edit: Doh! too late lol


newride 02-16-2011 05:07 PM

Nsu.......fu
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Mongle (Post 15207366)
If you don't have a 27mm an 1 1/16 is very close (.0005" diffrence). Most metric sockets OVER 26mm are within a thousandth of the SAE sockets. Use a good six point socket and you shouldn't have any trouble.

well, I suck. days of running around trying to get the right tool, finally get the clutch off, locktite some good screws, tightening the nsu on and......snap.
Putting in the upper screw and almost half of the plastic on the nsu holding the top screw breaks and falls off.
so.........definately have to cut that f'ing thing out of there now. I know you just don't cut it out. do I follow the wire somewhere and disconnect it?
So frustrated, going swimming. lol

Mongle 02-16-2011 05:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by newride (Post 15207559)
well, I suck. days of running around trying to get the right tool, finally get the clutch off, locktite some good screws, tightening the nsu on and......snap.
Putting in the upper screw and almost half of the plastic on the nsu holding the top screw breaks and falls off.
so.........definately have to cut that f'ing thing out of there now. I know you just don't cut it out. do I follow the wire somewhere and disconnect it?
So frustrated, going swimming. lol

Not quite sure what exactly you broke (screw or the NSU itself). I know I would do everything in my power to not cut, drill, grind etc. inside that case! Chances of getting bits of metal in the case are too high! Good luck man...maybe a pic of what you got going on and we can help a little more....

speedmaster 02-16-2011 07:49 PM

Anyone know of a <?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" /><st1:place w:st="on"><st1:country-region w:st="on">US</st1:country-region></st1:place> vendor for Frame Guards. I have tried Kientech but they no longer sell the ones from B&B Off-road.
I donít know why but my DR is getting lots of scratches in the frame area about 6 Ė 8 inches above the foot pegs.
<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:p></o:p>
<o:p></o:p>

eakins 02-16-2011 08:12 PM

another windhield option/variation.
this is for the wr but should fit the dr headlight shroud.
http://www.ceebaileys.com/yamaha/yamaha_wr250_450.html

it's shapped slightly different than the dr one but does not feature a lower air intake (laminar flow)...but it's unknown how affect it really is
http://www.ceebaileys.com/suzuki/dr650z400ws.html

thumpididump 02-16-2011 08:55 PM

Can someone confirm whether the FMF Powerbomb header pipe will bolt onto the Kientech-modified Two Bros mid-pipe without any messing around? I suspect the answer is probably yes, and I also assume that both OEM gaskets are used in this application (the gasket at the front of the header pipe, as well as the one where the header joins the mid-pipe)??

TeeVee 02-16-2011 09:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LucasLeader (Post 15205251)
Anyone have a line on cheap tires? I'm hating myself now for missing that sale on the D606's from motorcycle superstore. They still aren't that expensive, but I'm looking for something along those lines and wondering if anyone has sniffed out an even better deal. I go through rear tires pretty fast, so the cheaper the better.

www.swmototires.com...d606 rear is 69.95 shipped...no shipping charges

procycle 02-16-2011 09:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by speedmaster (Post 15208710)
Anyone know of a <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:country-region w:st="on">US</st1:country-region></st1:place> vendor for Frame Guards. I have tried Kientech but they no longer sell the ones from B&B Off-road.
I donít know why but my DR is getting lots of scratches in the frame area about 6 Ė 8 inches above the foot pegs.
<o:p></o:p>
<o:p></o:p>

I don't think anyone is importing them. You could probably order them direct from B&B.

BergDonk 02-16-2011 09:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thumpididump (Post 15209295)
Can someone confirm whether the FMF Powerbomb header pipe will bolt onto the Kientech-modified Two Bros mid-pipe without any messing around? I suspect the answer is probably yes, and I also assume that both OEM gaskets are used in this application (the gasket at the front of the header pipe, as well as the one where the header joins the mid-pipe)??

The one I fitted had no coupling as such. I TIG welded a short length of tube to it to get it to line up and mate to my tail pipe.

Steve

PAL 02-16-2011 11:16 PM

Frame Gaurds:

http://www.bboffroad.com.au/dr_650.htm

http://www.vincestrangmotorcycles.com.au/dr.html

Not US vendors though.

speedmaster 02-16-2011 11:19 PM

Thanks Procycle and Pal, I ordered a set from B&B directly.

Gage 02-16-2011 11:25 PM

Hey guys what are the odds that i could pick up a dr 650 for around 2k? Some back in the 90s? Or is that just going to get me a POS bike?

Al Tuna 02-16-2011 11:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GageP (Post 15210168)
Hey guys what are the odds that i could pick up a dr 650 for around 2k? Some back in the 90s? Or is that just going to get me a POS bike?

Not mine, I just did a search in the flea market.
You should be able to find plenty of DRs under 3k.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...ighlight=dr650

Adv Grifter 02-17-2011 12:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ohiofathead (Post 15197296)
Hey Guys - I need new wheels bearings. Are the quality of the oem bearings worth the extra cost over the All Balls or Moose kits? Don't tell me to "just go to my local bearing shop" because I don't have one. :D

The cush drive bumpers are really loose too. I think I'll replace them while I have the bike apart.

From following dirt bike boards it seems lots of riders burn through "All Balls" bearings very quickly. Also, our Round The World Local DR Hero Jamin' Jay, had the All Balls bearings crap out in very short order. I think they lasted Jay only 5000 miles or so? He's gone back to OEM.

I would go with OEM bearings unless you can find quality sealed bearings like Koyo, or SKS or other Euro bearings.

Lots of guys complain about the lack of sealed ends on the DR bearings. But if you clean and grease your bearings well, they actually last well unless you ride UNDER water a lot. I'm near 40,000 miles on original, OEM bearings. All smooth, quiet. 3rd DR, no bearing problems.

jessepitt 02-17-2011 12:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GageP (Post 15210168)
Hey guys what are the odds that i could pick up a dr 650 for around 2k? Some back in the 90s? Or is that just going to get me a POS bike?


I paid $2200 for my '99 five years ago with very low miles. I got thirty thousand hassle free miles out of it.

Adv Grifter 02-17-2011 12:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joefromsf (Post 15206390)
I think I've seen others post about DR specific items they have for sale in the Flea Market here. If its OK I'll post the link here once. If its not OK I will delete.

I've got a set of lightly used Dirt-Bagz and DR mounting racks for sale here: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=658974

Thanks.

Is the flat black panel to prevent the bag burning? The left side rack may not protect the bag once its fully stuffed with heavy stuff. Did you side panel ever melt? Bags OK? Good luck with sale.

jessepitt 02-17-2011 12:32 AM

no balls
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Adv Grifter (Post 15210313)
From following dirt bike boards it seems lots of riders burn through "All Balls" bearings very quickly. Also, our Round The World Local DR Hero Jamin' Jay, had the All Balls bearings crap out in very short order. I think they lasted Jay only 5000 miles or so? He's gone back to OEM.

I would go with OEM bearings unless you can find quality sealed bearings like Koyo, or SKS or other Euro bearings.



Lots of guys complain about the lack of sealed ends on the DR bearings. But if you clean and grease your bearings well, they actually last well unless you ride UNDER water a lot. I'm near 40,000 miles on original, OEM bearings. All smooth, quiet. 3rd DR, no bearing problems.

I went through a set of all balls rear wheel bearings in about 8k miles. I still have the stockers in the front with 34,000 on 'em.

BugsInMyTeeth 02-17-2011 01:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GageP (Post 15210168)
Hey guys what are the odds that i could pick up a dr 650 for around 2k? Some back in the 90s? Or is that just going to get me a POS bike?

keep looking. I got lucky and stole my 98 for $1k flat. All I have done except for regular maintenance and the occasional farkle is install the starter kick-back gear.

They ARE out there :deal

rivercreep 02-17-2011 05:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Adv Grifter (Post 15210313)
From following dirt bike boards it seems lots of riders burn through "All Balls" bearings very quickly. Also, our Round The World Local DR Hero Jamin' Jay, had the All Balls bearings crap out in very short order. I think they lasted Jay only 5000 miles or so? He's gone back to OEM.

I would go with OEM bearings unless you can find quality sealed bearings like Koyo, or SKS or other Euro bearings.

Lots of guys complain about the lack of sealed ends on the DR bearings. But if you clean and grease your bearings well, they actually last well unless you ride UNDER water a lot. I'm near 40,000 miles on original, OEM bearings. All smooth, quiet. 3rd DR, no bearing problems.

You're almost making me glad my 09 DR was stolen since "all balls" were one of the improvements I mad in the steering, and wheels.
F.W.I.W. I hope the wheels lock up on the C@*k sucking thief!....just thinking about that makes me feel better. THANKS!:freaky

gplassm 02-17-2011 05:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GageP (Post 15210168)
Hey guys what are the odds that i could pick up a dr 650 for around 2k? Some back in the 90s? Or is that just going to get me a POS bike?

I bought my 1996 model last fall, with only 3000 miles on it, for $1500. I thought that was a fair deal for both parties. It is bone stock, and very pretty, although the color scheme is a bit "loud" for my tastes. It had not been ridden off road at all, so it still looks very close to new. I would look for the nicest one you can find, from 1996-up. At worst, you will have to do the starter gear fix (1998-2000?), and maybe a base gasket replacement (1996-1998?), but mine has been holding just fine.

thumpididump 02-17-2011 06:02 AM

Moose Racing packaged front wheel bearings are clealy marked "All Balls" on the paperwork inside the box, and the bearings themselves are marked by "KML"

Rusty Rocket 02-17-2011 06:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GageP (Post 15210168)
Hey guys what are the odds that i could pick up a dr 650 for around 2k? Some back in the 90s? Or is that just going to get me a POS bike?

NJ-Brett just sold his for $1600.

I got my "96 for $1600, 5 years ago. It can be done, especially in a bad economy and in winter. The longer you wait/search, the warmer it gets the higher the prices will likely go. Good luck. Try searchtempest to help navigate craigslist.

Rusty Rocket 02-17-2011 06:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Adv Grifter (Post 15210313)

Lots of guys complain about the lack of sealed ends on the DR bearings. But if you clean and grease your bearings well, they actually last well unless you ride UNDER water a lot. I'm near 40,000 miles on original, OEM bearings. All smooth, quiet. 3rd DR, no bearing problems.

If your stock bearings aren't completely wasted, you can carefully pick out the seals with a small knife or pick and install them into the new ones.
I've done this many times over the years. Just put in quality wheelbearing grease before you close them up.

BoRaBey 02-17-2011 08:48 AM

ı bougt this 2004 dr 650 se yesterday. ı want to ask that changing the handlebar of motorcycle. Which brand would you recommend. What should be the thickness of handle bar
http://i607.photobucket.com/albums/t...2_330609_n.jpg

http://i607.photobucket.com/albums/t...4894Medium.jpg

joefromsf 02-17-2011 10:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Adv Grifter (Post 15210346)
Is the flat black panel to prevent the bag burning? The left side rack may not protect the bag once its fully stuffed with heavy stuff. Did you side panel ever melt? Bags OK? Good luck with sale.

Re: my Dirt-Bagz for sale in flea market.

The black plastic panels are made of flexible plastic and give the bags some shape. They fit into a sleeve on the inside of the bag. They are not heat shields. I guess they would prevent flopping around when empty and potentially contacting the exhaust, but the bags are secured at two points (front and rear) to the racks so I imagine them to be very stable. Note that I think every piece of soft luggage or tank bag I have ever owned has had similar plastic panels to provide shape when empty.

As I mentioned in the ad, I have never used these bags, they came with the bike, so I don't have personal experience with them. I immediately bought bigger waterproof bags, the Wolfman Explorers. There is some dirt but no wear, scuff or burn marks on the bags themselves. I could throw them in the washer and then they won't even have the dirt. :wink:

Did you mean "right (exhaust) side" in your comment? I honestly don't see how these bags can contact the exhaust. That said, the back end of my right side panel does have some evidence (melting) of contacting the exhaust. I can try to contact the previous owner to ask if that was from these bags or earlier non-rack supported bags.

In the meantime, if anyone else here has good or bad experience with Dirt-Bagz on the DR, please post up so others know whether these are a worthwhile accessory for their bike.

Here are the only pics I have of the racks on the DR when I first bought it. And pics with bags on bike from the manufacturer's web site: http://www.dbzproducts.com/gallery.htm

http://joefromsf.smugmug.com/Motorcy...01_b2pzP-L.jpg

http://joefromsf.smugmug.com/Motorcy...30_nNBcd-L.jpg

newride 02-17-2011 10:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mongle (Post 15207625)
Not quite sure what exactly you broke (screw or the NSU itself). I know I would do everything in my power to not cut, drill, grind etc. inside that case! Chances of getting bits of metal in the case are too high! Good luck man...maybe a pic of what you got going on and we can help a little more....

Broke the plastic hole on the NSU that surrounds the top screw. The star washer broke off a big chunk of the plastic while I was tightening it down. Wasn't talking about cutting metal. Just assumed that since the plastic housing is compromised, the screw will be more likely to back out. It used to be a plastic circle on the right side of the NSU, but 30-40 % of the plastic is not there. Don't want to take off the NSU but..........
Will try to take pictures today.......

joefromsf 02-17-2011 10:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joefromsf (Post 15212673)

In the meantime, if anyone else here has good or bad experience with Dirt-Bagz on the DR, please post up so others know whether these are a worthwhile accessory for their bike.

OK, I did my own search through this thread and found two instances of side panel melting with Dirt-Bagz.
Note that I didn't find anybody saying that the bags themselves ever contacted the exhaust.

I will add a note to my ad in FM.

jessepitt 02-17-2011 11:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BoRaBey (Post 15212011)
ı bougt this 2004 dr 650 se yesterday. ı want to ask that changing the handlebar of motorcycle. Which brand would you recommend. What should be the thickness of handle bar


The stock bar size is 7/8ths. I think any of the normal name brand bars will work fine. They do come in many different styles tho so it would be a good idea to call a customer service rep and tell them your height and riding style so they can point you toward the correct rise and pull back of bar. I have renthals on mine and they have survived many crashs.
That's a sweet looking bike you got. Is that and L.E.D tail light? It looks from the picture like it sits flush to the fender, any idea where it came from? Enjoy your new bike and read this thread in your spare time, it will tell you almost everything about your bike.

sagedrifter 02-17-2011 12:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BoRaBey (Post 15212011)
ı bougt this 2004 dr 650 se yesterday. ı want to ask that changing the handlebar of motorcycle. Which brand would you recommend. What should be the thickness of handle bar


I went with the ProTaper CR High Bends, its a fat bar without the top bar, just a single tube.. I think its what they call an inch and a 1/8.

Procycle has a ProTaper fat bar and they also have risers etc... You can get many things for the DR650 in one place and combine shipping... :deal

http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/dr650.html

LexTalionis 02-17-2011 01:02 PM

Condolences
 
Sorry to hear of your broken NSU, hope you get it taken care of to your satisfaction.

And, thank you for the cautionary tale for the rest of us.

Lex

Quote:

Originally Posted by newride (Post 15207559)
well, I suck. days of running around trying to get the right tool, finally get the clutch off, locktite some good screws, tightening the nsu on and......snap.
Putting in the upper screw and almost half of the plastic on the nsu holding the top screw breaks and falls off.
so.........definately have to cut that f'ing thing out of there now. I know you just don't cut it out. do I follow the wire somewhere and disconnect it?
So frustrated, going swimming. lol


Rusty Rocket 02-17-2011 02:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LexTalionis (Post 15213698)
Sorry to hear of your broken NSU,

Lex

A new one is $36.

I've been planning to yank mine out the next time I'm in there. I just like the idea of not having to worry about those pesky screws.

Redbean 02-17-2011 02:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Redbean (Post 15206827)
Thanks guys, got it pulled on rusty screw, is had what was left of the plug on it. Going to button it up and check it out.

Put it back together and it runs like shit, sounds lean, ordered extended fuel mix screw from Procycle. Maybe didn't turn mix screw out the correct amount?

Adv Grifter 02-17-2011 02:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rivercreep (Post 15210877)
You're almost making me glad my 09 DR was stolen since "all balls" were one of the improvements I mad in the steering, and wheels. F.W.I.W. I hope the wheels lock up on the C@*k sucking thief!....just thinking about that makes me feel better. THANKS!:freaky

May it be so! :grim

Not sure why you would consider re-branded Taiwanese bearings as "an upgrade" to stock. In case you hadn't noticed ... stock Suzuki components are very high quality. Especially bearings. In fact, I go so far as to say Koyo (made in Japan) bearings are some of the very best in the world.

Lots of "johnny come lately" companies come out of nowhere to suck money from the MC community. But read the reviews, talk to the experts who replace bearings everyday. All Balls are junk. Period.

Adv Grifter 02-17-2011 03:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joefromsf (Post 15212854)
OK, I did my own search through this thread and found two instances of side panel melting with Dirt-Bagz.
Note that I didn't find anybody saying that the bags themselves ever contacted the exhaust.

I will add a note to my ad in FM.

I had similar experiences ... but different bags and set up. Here is what I did to protect the stock Suzuki side panel from melting. Works very well. It's a stainless pipe hanger, bent to fit. works perfectly. A very heavy bag will press against the panel, putting it too close to pipe.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_p...41_RnGGb-L.jpg
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_p...08_3buFt-L.jpg
Here it is with stock pipe and panel attached. Attachment point is different. Perfect. Even with 30 lbs. bag, no melting.

Velocibiker 02-17-2011 03:31 PM

DR650 spec sheet
 
1 Attachment(s)
Some of you may find this helpful. Attached is a Word doc but with a .gpx extension so I could upload it. It's a cut & paste of most of the specs for the DR that you can print on both sides of a standard sheet of paper and stuff in your tool tube.

(Just save this file, rename the .gpx to a .doc)

SilverBullet 02-17-2011 03:42 PM

$1,000 off coupon for 2009 DR650
 
Don't say I never gave you anything. $1,000 off coupon for a new 2009 DR650. Good until March 31,2011

The fact they included the DR650 in the offer I'm assuming some dealers must still have them in stock.

Not a joke, this is a legimate Suzuki promotion from their website.

http://www.suzukicycles.com/microsites/1koff.aspx

_

Dalmatino 02-17-2011 03:45 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Hey guys...thinking on getting another DR650 to set up for some far off travels...Wondering about the power out put isue...what is stock adequate for and can it be upgraded and if so what's the best?

Thanks...pic of my old one that I should have never sold, along with many others.

NJ-Brett 02-17-2011 04:31 PM

More power output?
All you really need is to cut the top of the airbox, a pumper carb if you like throttle response. Hard to see needing more power then that...

Some people just like a lot of power though, so maybe the big bore kit?




Quote:

Originally Posted by Dalmatino (Post 15214807)
Hey guys...thinking on getting another DR650 to set up for some far off travels...Wondering about the power out put isue...what is stock adequate for and can it be upgraded and if so what's the best?

Thanks...pic of my old one that I should have never sold, along with many others.


thumpididump 02-17-2011 04:38 PM

Which mid-pipe are you using, BergDonk?


Quote:

Originally Posted by thumpididump (Post 15209295)
Can someone confirm whether the FMF Powerbomb header pipe will bolt onto the Kientech-modified Two Bros mid-pipe without any messing around? I suspect the answer is probably yes, and I also assume that both OEM gaskets are used in this application (the gasket at the front of the header pipe, as well as the one where the header joins the mid-pipe)??


Quote:

Originally Posted by BergDonk (Post 15209581)
The one I fitted had no coupling as such. I TIG welded a short length of tube to it to get it to line up and mate to my tail pipe.

Steve


alonzo 02-17-2011 05:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dalmatino (Post 15214807)
Hey guys...thinking on getting another DR650 to set up for some far off travels...Wondering about the power out put isue...what is stock adequate for and can it be upgraded and if so what's the best?

Thanks...pic of my old one that I should have never sold, along with many others.

I like that black exhaust system. What did you paint it with?

-- alonzo

planemanx15 02-17-2011 06:58 PM

So whats the difference between the procycle and Kientech TM-40 carbs? Seems like they come with the same things but are different in price. Seems like the procycle comes with more jetting options.

http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/dr650.html#fuelsystems

http://www.kientech.com/TM-40Pumper.html

thumpididump 02-17-2011 07:14 PM

The ProCycle TM-40 has steel adapter rings pressed onto the body so that it fits the rubber boots for your intake and airbox. The Kientech TM-40 will fit loose, and you'll need to clamp the boots down real good. The ProCycle kit also includes a fist full of main and pilot jets allowing you to fine tune your setup. IMO, the ProCycle kit is worth the extra cash.

basketcase 02-17-2011 07:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dalmatino (Post 15214807)
Hey guys...thinking on getting another DR650 to set up for some far off travels...Wondering about the power out put isue...what is stock adequate for and can it be upgraded and if so what's the best?

In stock form the DR is rock solid reliable. I know it makes me a minority voice in the dialogue, but after riding a stock (in terms of air-box, jetting, and exhaust) DR for nearly 5,000 miles on a trip out west last summer I can't see the draw towards doing power modifications.

Put another way, fresh out of the crate the bike will run strong from sea level to over 12,000 feet in elevation. It will handle the fire and forest service roads with style, and it will cruise on the interstate all day long at 75-80 mph without a hiccup.

My thought would be that if leaving on a long trip, or a RTW trip, do the bolt up stuff (bash plate, hand-guards, luggage racks, etc.) to to protect the bike and haul the necessary stuff, but otherwise leave the state of tune alone.

Just MHO

TrophyHunter 02-17-2011 07:59 PM

BC - I agree with you. It's a very basic bike and for reliability and ease of replacement parts if needed....let it ride. Add a monster gas tank to your list and go.

As romantic as it sounds, I don't see a RTW trip in my future and probably not a trip of any length until I retire.....so I bought every high zoot item known to man and bolted it up!:D

basketcase 02-17-2011 08:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TrophyHunter (Post 15216857)
BC - I agree with you. It's a very basic bike and for reliability and ease of replacement parts if needed....let it ride. Add a monster gas tank to your list and go.

As romantic as it sounds, I don't see a RTW trip in my future and probably not a trip of any length until I retire.....so I bought every high zoot item known to man and bolted it up!:D

:lol3

Yeah -- I'm a confessed hypocrite on the topic. My state of tune is stock but I have a butt load of other stuff bolted on or added in.

In terms of comfort, the three best purchases I made were a Sargeant lo-seat, probillet 1" bar risers, and probillet wider footpegs. :thumb

ER70S-2 02-17-2011 08:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by basketcase (Post 15216976)
In terms of comfort, the three best purchases I made were a Sargeant lo-seat, probillet 1" bar risers, and probillet wider footpegs. :thumb

Although the Corbin allows me to ride long enough to care about the suspension;

..........whatever you do.......never........ever....... ride a DR with emulators in the front and a Cogent on the rear.........ever. :evil

No, I didn't believe it either. :freaky

Adv Grifter 02-17-2011 09:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joefromsf (Post 15212673)
Did you mean "right (exhaust) side" in your comment?

Whoops, my mistake ... yes, I met Right Side ... sorry.
Quote:

Originally Posted by joefromsf (Post 15212673)
I honestly don't see how these bags can contact the exhaust. That said, the back end of my right side panel does have some evidence (melting) of contacting the exhaust.

Cool, the rack looks well positioned to keep the bag off ... but supporting the panel from underneath can help the melting. I use the Happy Trails rack, it works well also for most bags.
Quote:

Originally Posted by joefromsf (Post 15212673)
In the meantime, if anyone else here has good or bad experience with Dirt-Bagz on the DR, please post up so others know whether these are a worthwhile accessory for their bike.

The Dirt Bagz have a good reputation ... but I've not used them. They adapt well to lots of bikes it seems ... mostly dirt bikes.

Nice view from Twin Peaks. :clap

Adv Grifter 02-17-2011 09:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dalmatino (Post 15214807)
Hey guys...thinking on getting another DR650 to set up for some far off travels...Wondering about the power out put isue...what is stock adequate for and can it be upgraded and if so what's the best?

Thanks...pic of my old one that I should have never sold, along with many others.

Even though my Carb jetting and Airbox are modified, I can't really argue with leaving the bike totally stock if doing a long range, extended ride. The only time power will drop off significantly will be at very high altitudes, like in the Andes and Himalayas. In the Andes you'll be riding over 15,000 ft. in a few places. Himalayas, even higher. The stock DR, as mentioned, does pretty well up to about 12K ft. (4K meters) In reality, by 12K its pretty gutless. But when up that high for extended periods there is a quick and easy solution: Remove the air box side cover. About a five minute job.

The good news about running a stock set up is your fuel economy will be very good most everywhere. (about 50 mpg or so) Of course up high all carb'd bikes use more fuel. This is where F.I. has an advantage ... but F.I. lose power just like any motor will. But will adjust mixture so fuel consumption should remain close to normal.

All motors lose power as you go up. The DR will have more than enough power for probably 85% of your travel. Most times it cruises easily at 80 mph. In the 3rd world you'll find your speeds will be much lower, more like
50 to 60 MPH. In towns and villages, even less. Off road, even in very deep sand, it just chugs through easily, never overheating.
Just an outstanding travel bike.

NordieBoy 02-17-2011 09:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ER70S-2 (Post 15217173)
..........whatever you do.......never........ever....... ride a DR with emulators in the front and a Cogent on the rear.........ever. :evil

No, I didn't believe it either. :freaky

Yeah. I held back from riding a pumper equipped DR for the same reason.

I've got a pumper now :(


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