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-   -   DR650 Stator Rewire (http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=527351)

Exile 11-22-2009 01:27 PM

DR650 Stator Rewire
 
It seems my DR needs some more wattage. Following the lead from Procycle I have rewired my stator.

Since I learn by example, and couldn't find a DR650 stator rewire with pictures, I decided to make one myself. Using my electrical/computer engineering know-how, I have, to my knowledge, successfully completed the transformation.

1. To begin remove the left side cover of the engine (i.e. stator cover). There is oil in it so have a bucket ready. There are 11 screws, one is longer than the rest, make sure to mark where it goes. Also, be careful not to damage the dowel pin. If you are careful not to damage the gasket (assuming it comes off with the cover) you can reuse. So don't damage it like I did!:baldy Also make a note of how the wires are ziptied to the stator.
http://seekingzero.com/IMG_4667.JPG

2. Next, remove the piece that holds down the wires with two philips head screws and then the stator itself held in with 3 allen head screws. I also removed the wire holder off of the stator for ease of access.
http://seekingzero.com/IMG_4684a.jpg

3. Right now the stator is wye wound. We are going to rewire it so that it is delta wound.
http://lukeb.members.sonic.net/stato...or_delta_y.png
http://www.procycle.us/images/bikepa...e_to_delta.jpg
http://www.procycle.us/images/bikepa...ator_dr650.jpg

4. Notice the yellow wires running along the wire loops. Those are the wires labeled A, B, and C that come out of the motor and go to the voltage regulator. Their end connections are all connected together at the wye connection lead, or based off of the wye diagram they are all connected in the "center."
http://seekingzero.com/IMG_4668.JPG
http://seekingzero.com/IMG_4669.JPG

5. Cut the wye connection, sever the wires and pull them apart. The whole thing is covered in a resin to prevent shorting so you'll need some needle nose pliers, but be careful not to damage the wires in anyway. Once cut you should have 3 different length wires. Then, lay the cut wires out alongside the yellow wires. Use a utility knife and gently cut open the the casing at the appropriate length. (cut as if you were whittling wood so as not to damage the wires underneath) It doesn't matter which wire is connected to which so long as the wye end of the coil isn't connected to its own yellow wire connection. To make sure you don't do this grab a voltmeter set to resistance and touch a yellow wire to each wye end. If nothing happens you're good. If the resistance jumps to some negative number you have the other end of the wire. :eek1
http://seekingzero.com/IMG_4671.JPG

6. Connect a wye end to a yellow wire and solder. (I did this one at a time so that nothing got mixed up)
http://seekingzero.com/IMG_4673.JPG
http://seekingzero.com/IMG_4676.JPG

7. Next you'll need some epoxy. (I had some general purpose from wal-mart that I am hoping will do the job) Mix the epoxy and cover up the spliced connection to prevent any shorting.
http://seekingzero.com/IMG_4677.JPG
http://seekingzero.com/IMG_4680.JPG

8. Re-ziptie the wires back in place and put it all back together.

The Delta connection will produce 70% of the voltage output and 140% of the current output of a Y connection with the same windings. See Luke's post on Stators Demystified.

D.T. 11-22-2009 08:13 PM

Nice! So the point where all 3 phases in Y are connected is at the WYE area next to the source coil wires? Just pull them apart and solder them to the output leads eh? Voltage is plenty high in the Y formation, but does it flicker a bit at idle speeds?

Now did you get it all sealed/tidied up so nothing gets nicked whilst it's in operation? How does it work? How long will it last?

Ron Seida 11-23-2009 04:13 PM

Excellent write-up Exile, thanx for the photo's and input. Let us know if you run into any problems. Do you have any numbers for us regarding output wattage?

thejosh 11-23-2009 04:25 PM

slightly off topic but I need advice
 
What are the torque values for the 3 bolts that hold the Stator in and what are the torque values for the bolts that hold the Stator cover onto the block?

Also do you need to loctite the bolts? red or blue locitite?

My manual doesnt have this info and I am trying to swap my stator this week.

thanks!

strongbad 11-23-2009 11:27 PM

Nice. So I take it this mod works by providing a better impedance match to the heavier electrical load. If that's the case, then power output should be better at all rpms. No?

Exile 11-24-2009 08:51 AM

Quote:

but does it flicker a bit at idle speeds?
I went on a very tough trail ride yesterday and had no problems whatsoever.

Quote:

Now did you get it all sealed/tidied up so nothing gets nicked whilst it's in operation? How does it work? How long will it last?
Everything is sealed and put back exactly the way it came out. If done correctly it should last indefinitely. Though I may worry about the epoxy, some don't hold up to the high temperature oil, so I'm told, same goes for the zip-ties.

Quote:

Do you have any numbers for us regarding output wattage?
For numbers, fellow inmate Luke has posted a write up on this called Stators Demystified. Or you can check ProCycle's link at the bottom.

Quote:

What are the torque values for the 3 bolts that hold the Stator in and what are the torque values for the bolts that hold the Stator cover onto the block?
I am not sure of the torque values, I tightened everything down to about 10 lbs. I did not use any loctite either.

Quote:

So I take it this mod works by providing a better impedance match to the heavier electrical load. If that's the case, then power output should be better at all rpms. No?
For this question I'll forward you to ProCycle. He explained it very well.

I have posted this on ThumperTalk as well so more can see it. Check it out here for answers to some other questions you may have or to ProCycle's original post.

DirtyDR650 12-06-2009 09:25 AM

This is just what I was looking for to give me enough power to handle the dual headlight system I'm installing on my '08 DR650. Great write up, I think I can do this.
Thanks! :clap

One question. Can the stock regulator handle this mod?

Exile 12-06-2009 11:38 AM

So far, the regulator doesn't seem bothered and it seems as though it will handle it just fine. However, that is one potential risk of making this conversion.

Make sure to check out the thread on ThumperTalk. Procycle shows another way to complete this rewire. Multiple options are always good. :D

Fubars 12-19-2010 04:09 PM

Revisiting the thread
 
I'd like to try this on my '92 Yamaha TDM 850. I've got a Datel voltmeter on the dash. I have it connected to a fuse panel (instead of the battery) just to keep things clean. Running just a vest and grip heaters will have the voltage down below 12 volts on the freeway in only 10-15 minutes. No accessories and voltage goes up past 14 volts easy.

Anyway, I got spare/used stator before I open the motor just in case.

http://i1019.photobucket.com/albums/...a/IMG_1624.jpg

It's obviously wound different than a Suzuki stator.

http://i1019.photobucket.com/albums/...a/IMG_1625.jpg

It's easy to locate the 3 wires going to the voltage regulator. I don't want to strip the sheathing just yet, but where it connects to the coils, the 3 wires turn into 4. 2 insultated and 2 bare copper.

http://i1019.photobucket.com/albums/...a/IMG_1627.jpg

So now I'm trying to figure which wires to cut, and where to solder them.

Please advise.

procycle 12-22-2010 11:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fubars (Post 14737182)
I'd like to try this on my '92 Yamaha TDM 850.
Anyway, I got spare/used stator before I open the motor just in case.
It's obviously wound different than a Suzuki stator.

It's easy to locate the 3 wires going to the voltage regulator. I don't want to strip the sheathing just yet, but where it connects to the coils, the 3 wires turn into 4. 2 insultated and 2 bare copper.

So now I'm trying to figure which wires to cut, and where to solder them.

Well, it's not obvious from the photos. The 'Y' connection must be buried somewhere in the epoxy.

Rather than converting that stator from Wye to Delta I would send it to Ricky Stator or Rick's Motorsport Electrics and have it rewound for more output (or rewind it yourself).

A rewind was not practical for the DR because it has the ignition source coil wound on top of the stator coils.

LukasM 12-22-2010 11:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by procycle (Post 14758806)
A rewind was not practical for the DR because it has the ignition source coil wound on top of the stator coils.

Jeff,

Are you guys still working on the custom alternators for the DR?

foxfire 12-26-2010 08:20 PM

OK electrical noob alert! What happens when you're not using all the extra power? That goes to the rectifier right? Is that much excess juice gonna hurt anything?

foxfire 01-24-2011 08:02 PM

Bump? :ear

Exile 11-12-2011 04:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by foxfire (Post 14787473)
OK electrical noob alert! What happens when you're not using all the extra power? That goes to the rectifier right? Is that much excess juice gonna hurt anything?

Sorry, I lost track of this thread. To date, the DR is stilling running great, starting fine, and powering as it should. It is a possibility that the extra juice could reduce the life of the rectifier, and if that is the case then you can just replace it with a heavier one.

Paddle007 11-12-2011 04:40 PM

A word of caution. Be careful and make sure your wires are under the retaining strap. The same strap that is under the ignition pickup. If not your wires will rub and eventually you will be calling Carl @ ProCycle and buying a new armature. Don't ask me how I know this:cry


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