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philofax 02-26-2010 02:15 AM

Going to Sardegna in Fall... a shorttrip to see the sun
October in Munich. Temperatures are below 18C and it's clearly, summer is gone.
Wolfgang called us on a friday afternoon and told us, he will be going to sardegna
for a short trip mid october with a friend and he would be happy if we can join
them. Short trip to sardegna? heading from munich to the ferry in livorno (750k)
on oct. 15th and taking the nightferry? 4 days on the island and then back to
munich? sounds like a saddlesore thing, we are in.

we booked the ferry the same evening over the internet (50.- EUR) and began
to pack our stuff.

On Oct. 15th we were starting at 07:00h and taking the autobahn to austria.
cause we have not enough time for sightseeing, we bought our toll stickers
for a week (4,4o EUR) for the austrian highway and met a nice couple at the
gas station. temperatures are now 0C. freezing.

we were planing to meet wolfi and his friend at the ferry. the friend was from
berlin and arrived in munich by train. wolfi and joerg are going from munich to
livorno a hour or two later than us.

the couple at the gasstation told us, thats funny, that the first two persons
they meet since they got of the train from berlin (guess what) were also on
their way to sardegna and they also met a young man which is going there
too. we told them (more guessing), yes, thats joerg.

it's cold at the austrian border, so we went on, hoping that when passing the
alps, it will be much warmer than here. 10 hrs till the ferry leaves. we have to

marion asked me to go directly to livorno, just austrian highway, italian autostrada
and then hop on the ferry without any problems. nice plan ... ;)

philofax 02-26-2010 02:29 AM

it's half past 6 on the evening, marion is angry. she asked me to go directly to
the ferry but i wanted to see the SS12 which leads through mountains and
small villages in Tuscany. It is so nice, scenic, a joy to ride ... but eats up time.

Long story short, we arrived in time. Marion was now shouting at me, because
i was so calm and she thought ferry will leave without us. We arrived and our
friends were still waiting at the ferryport. Getting our Tickets at the office,
on the ferry, securing the bikes and ready to go captain.

if you want to go to sardegna, you have full options. cabin with or without
seaview. 4 man cabin, 2 person in a room, shower, what you like. the ferry
leaves at 21:00h (09:00 pm) and arrives the next morning at 07:00h (am).

so we decided, the lowcost, adventurer, FYYFF method. Pay 50.- each person
for a ferry ticket, including the bike and sleep whereever you want. we went
to the cafeteria and putted our thermarest on the floor, sleeping bag and
thats it. after a few beers (not for me) and smoke we went to "bed" and
while dreaming of the offroad heaven, the ferry passes corsica and heading
south to sardgna.

The 50.- EUR are including all taxes, both rides (to and from sardegna) and
the bike. Sometimes there are other offers on the interwebs, but you can
calculate with roundabout 45.- to 55.- EUR when sleeping on the floor, which
is quite nice in summer on deck.

kktos 02-26-2010 02:56 AM

Oh oh... nice start. Raised my interest.
I'm tuned.

GB 02-26-2010 03:33 AM


philofax 02-26-2010 03:45 AM

Land in sight, the Port of Golfo Aranci

6 hours of sleep later, i woke up at 0600am to take a few pics of the rising sun.
sadly the aperture was so high, all of them are a little shaky. but trust me, the
sun was fantastic.

we went off the ferry and marion told wolfi (he was on sardegna a few times, so
he was the tourguide), that she was running out of fuel. she will need gas in
a few km. really low on gas. he said yes, yes, yes and off we go.

ok, guess who was running out of fuel, who didn't noticed that she was not
following the group and who had to go for a gas station to get her 2 liters of
super unleaded? marion, wolfi and me. in this order. no problem and we laughed
about it when drinking our coffee in the morning sun a few kilometers later.

weather was great, behind us, over the sea were dark clouds, over the island
only a few little white clouds. the costa smeralda ist one of the
nicest coastal routes with a yacht harbour. after we visited this spot we went
south, looking for camping spots and the wonderful SS125, which leads the
eastside of sardegna.

sometimes it's not so easy to find the way, because you have to go a few
extra kilometers if you don't want to jump over a small pothole.

MichaelJ 02-26-2010 04:33 AM


I spent 18 months on Sardinia in the late '70s. I lived in Tempio Pausiania and worked at the USAF Tropo site on Mt. Limbara.

I didn't have a bike while I was there and have always regretted not having one. :cry

Gorgeous scenery and great beaches.

philofax 02-26-2010 03:26 PM

Breathtaking scenery and receipts.
The scenery is breathtaking. You are driving close to the hills, following their
natural form, the road is twisty but in perfect shape. To our left is the sea and
to our right the mountains. We are driving south, reaching La Caletta and then
a few miles more to Santa Lucia.

A small camping place is found and we were asking them about prices. They can
offer 15.- EUR for 2 person in a tent. Showers are clean, hot water and the
toilets are ok, no they are also very good. They are also offering trailers to stay
in, a couple should pay 30.- EUR per night. We ask them for a little late season
discount and they agree to 20.- / night. Wolfi and Joerg would prefer the tent,
because it's more "adventure and holiday feeling" but for nightmarion and me, a
campingtrailer is adventurous enough.

so we drop our luggage, set up all the electronic stuff for the communication
with the civilization (and charging my mobile) and were so fucking happy to
be here. Nearly 20C, a soft wind from the sea, a wonderful spot to stay and
all we need is a dinner.

Dinner ... the camping spot has a "restaurant" .. and they were offering a
delicious frozen pizza for 5.- EUR. Ok, sorry Sir, no way i am gonna eat a
frozen piece of pizza when i am in Sadegna. So off we go (per pedes) to
a nearby Restaurant. Mama Maria in Santa Lucia, if you go there, be prepared
for the finest food on earth. There is no menu or daily specials card. Just tell
her, what you like to eat .. not in detail, just say "like fishes or please no fish
but beef or noodles .. cheese is great" and she will cook from the freshest
incridients a perfect meal for you.

The only thing is ... it's not really cheap ... but it's absolutely worth it.

Nightmarion 02-26-2010 03:57 PM


Originally Posted by philofax
it's half past 6 on the evening, marion is angry. she asked me to go directly to
the ferry but i wanted to see the SS12 which leads through mountains and
small villages in Tuscany. It is so nice, scenic, a joy to ride ... but eats up time.

Ooh yes. Especially the fact that the ss12 seemed to consist entirely of villages, construction sites, RVs, RVs in village, RVs in construction sites, construction sites in villages and RVs in construction sites in villages.
Followed by more villages, towns, RVs and construction sites.

Not to forget the busses, construction sites and trucks.
And towns.

philofax 02-27-2010 01:14 PM

The sun, the beach and the thyrrenian sea...

Good morning Sardegna. A warm, bright, beautyful day. We began our day with
coffee, tea and spoke about the planned route. We decided to follow the SS125
south and to have a look for smaller roads, which hopefully bring us to either the
beach or gravel roads up to the hills. We found both.

We reached some small villages in the mountains. It's hard to describe, what
experience it is to drive there. The view, the pavement, everything is fun.

This evening we stay in La Caletta for dinner. The little cafe next to
the restaurant has free wireless access and the cappuccino is 1.- EUR.
So we stayed there for an hour or two to check emails and sent pictures
to those left behind.

GatorTiger 02-28-2010 11:40 PM

Hey, two days without a post! The change in weather in Germany is no excuse to NOT post any more of this trip!! :ricky

Did you go all the way south (Costa Verde, Cagliari)??

More pics, please!!!! :deal


Cooltours 03-01-2010 11:36 AM

Wow, some supa pigdscha! Go on! Bin ganz :ear

philofax 03-01-2010 11:59 AM

cross country and crossed fingers...
it's sunday. the good thing, we are starting to a nice big trip with a little offroad
part, the bad thing is, our shorttrip is near the end. we started our day again in
la caletta with free wifi and a lot of coffee. our route is planned and we are ready
to go.

if you are ever on sardegna, go to fonni. this is a nice little town with a few
absulute amazing pictures on the walls. we bought some bread, cheese and
ham for a late breakfast and rode on. after only a few miles there was an small
path, leading through an alley of oaktrees. we drove a few miles, passing a sow
with her piglet (yes only one) and finally a descent to a place where we can have
a break and take a few pictures.

we flipped a coin to decide the direction. back to the entrance or go straight
on to see if this road (gravelpath with washouts) leads us to either a street,
town or a cliff.

funny (yes really) thing was, there was not a single problem on these roads,
we were rushing down the hills, jumping over the edges of washouts, had a
few nice drifts in the corners ... but i was not clever enough to handle my
frontbrake at the crossing in the next town and rearended the memsahib.

ok, it took 2 minutes to fix that and it was really no big deal.

stay tuned, when on the same afternoon a terrible accident happened ...
blood, gore and tears

philofax 03-01-2010 04:01 PM

Oh my fucking Dog, we got a white Tenere down, a white Tenere down...
calm down, there are survivors.

We were riding over a few nice passes and always looking for nice gravelroads.
Nightmarion was first in our group of four. She was not very fast, so Joerg was
overpassing her, maybe to show her "how real man are riding" and stuff. Nice
idea .. not so nice was his bad braking manouvre at the very next turn. Next
thing she saw, was a white and red Tenere flipping over a thornbush and a
"yippeeyeah" yelling Joerg falling into the bushes.

There was no real damage, neither to the rider nor the Tenere. Good old
heavy metal stuff. After this stunt, Wolfi and Joerg were going to look for
some more "adventure" and maybe thornbushes, but nightmarion and me
were heading to la caletta to check emails and drink ... cappuccino. what else.

and when sitting there, waiting for our friends, we realized, our short holiday
is over soon. tomorrow at 20:00h our ferry is leaving this beautyful island.
only a short time is left till the 750 km long way from livorno to munich is bitter sweet

but there are a lot of roads to explorer tomorrow, before we have to hop on
the ferry and then there will be a long dark night till we reach italy.

philofax 03-03-2010 11:44 AM

Time to say goodbye...
Woke up on a wonderful monday morning. We were cooking coffee, made some
tea, and began to pack our stuff. We had more with us, than needed but this
is no surprise. Our luggage got nice stickers of the island (the heads with the
bandana) and eventually we were prepared to go to the ferry.

Wolfi and Joerg had a small problem with the Tenere engine.

We decided to split up, Wolfi and Joerg were going to the mountains and
look for some gravelroads, we were following another (on the gps unit it
is a scenic route to some smaller lakes) route to Golfo Aranci. We came to
a blocked road, so we had to take a much longer route to the ferry but the
gps said, we would be there in time.

When we arrived at the harbour, we saw our ship in the sunset and had enough
time for dinner. We got 5 pizzas to take away and sat in the harbour and were
looking back to the hills where we came from. We had a nice 200 km trip from
the camping place to the port and were a little sad, that we will leave sardegna
in an hour.

Onboard the bikes were secured and we went up to the decks with our sleeping
bags and tankbags. A few coffee, coke, cigarettes later, the ferry left
sardegna and we were on our way. We were talking for hours about the
todays trip of each group and all of us were in common, we have to plan
our next trip to the island in spring.

Time to go to "bed" at around 01:00 am. In only 6 hours we will be in
Livorno and the 750 km trip to Munich will start.

philofax 03-03-2010 02:09 PM

Welcome Home...
and this is the end of the trip. we woke up at 06:00h, put our sleepingbag and
stuff away and brushed our teeth. small breakfast, lot of coffee and then on the
deck to see when the sun is raising.

we reached livorno harbour at 08:00h and three of us went off the ferry. the one
left behind was me. a lancia was parked right beside my bike, so can't get
away without disassembling my luggage.

we had traffic jams without a chance of lane splitting and is was pretty cold
when reaching the alps.

That's all folks. A shorttrip to sardegna. Munich-Livorno-Golfo Aranci-Livorno-Munich. From Thursday 15th to Tuesday 20th 2009.
Next trip to the island is May 08th. 2010. Yippeeeeeh.

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