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-   -   Airhead electrical Question. Circuit Board (http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=555390)

CurlyMike 03-02-2010 07:53 AM

Airhead electrical Question. Circuit Board
 
This is for my latest resurrection. Its off of a 1975 R75/6. I spent a couple of minutes straightening all of the “pins” and even cleaned them all with my Dremel and a small wire brush. Sprayed contact cleaner on the front and back and am ready to start plugging. (Note: The picts are before the cleaning and the straightening). When it comes to electrical I just kind of shut down.

The contact pins that obviously have a strip in the back were somewhat loose, not overly, and not all of them. Is them being loose going to inhibit the boards functionality? Should I drop some solder on each to sure them up? Am I over thinking the function and the way these work? Can I test each with a voltmeter? How?

wirewrkr 03-02-2010 08:35 AM

they're supposed to be crooked, as in the first picture. That's what keeps them tight in the board. After you re-bend them make sure you test the diode so you don't get a neutral light when you pull in the clutch handle!

CurlyMike 03-02-2010 10:03 AM

Ok, got it. Do I need to do anything to re-sure the posts so that there is no wiggle room in them from the back side?

bruno twip 03-02-2010 10:14 AM

wiggle is ok,
falling out is bad
just make sure the connecitons are clean and tight
Use a little no-ox (dialectric grease) on the connections

bpeckm 03-02-2010 01:33 PM

MOST of those connections are just simple multiple-wires-coming-together... if you are concerned, use an ohm-meter and there should be continuity between every pin in the same color code.

The wiring diagram for that model will show the other connections that are made, using the board: the top two center ones are connected by the little ceramic fuse so dear to the germanic engineers, where you have the metal/glass ones: #15 is live, going through the fuse to feed #15U; #58 is live, going through the fuse to feed #58U. (by "live", I mean that they are fed from the ignition switch and are "live" when the switch is "on".. the only real "live all the time" wires in the bucket are the red ones coming to the ignition switch)

You can test the diode with your ohm-meter as well: it connects "LKK" to the brown/yellow right next to it (I can't read your board, am too lazy to go find my Haynes.....:cry)... Reminder: a diode is an electrical check-valve, or one-way valve: electricity can only flow one way. So, put the leads on either side of the diode, and it should read continuous one way, and not continuous with the leads reversed (red is +, black is -).....

What looks like a hodge-podge is actually VERY simple and quite orderly.

I am vaguely remembering that I could not find the terminal "LKK" in the Haynes manual, but the color coding works, so no matter.

I actually LIKE electrical work and electrical sleuthing (twisted, huh....!), so let me know if I can help in any way.

:D

Wirespokes 03-02-2010 06:08 PM

As has already been mentioned - the terminals are supposed to be twisted, but not bent.

Check the diode - it's much more difficult to fix when installed.

No solder needed - just clean, bright and shiny connections.

lkchris 03-03-2010 09:03 AM

The board is really a holder and not a circuit board, per se. That is, there are no solder connections between terminals, so it doesn't matter if the terminals are loose. Of course there shouldn't be "crosstalk" between circuits, but that's not very likely if everything comes through it's proper hole.

CurlyMike 03-03-2010 09:51 AM

OK, thanks all for all of the info. bpeckm might get a PM explaining how to test . Like amost times I am sure I over thinking the whole thing.

Yarddog 03-03-2010 11:45 AM

Yep...I think you ARE overthinkin' this thang!! It's a simple piece, crude but effective, and I think we'd have a lot less problems with our equipment if things were more like this connector board...Looks fine, just hook everything up and yer good to go, and don't forget to use dielectric grease


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