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-   -   Kawasaki 175 Enduro F7 - (http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=581740)

sjc56 05-21-2010 06:11 AM

Kawasaki 175 Enduro F7 -
 
I am looking at picking up a 74 175 Enduro. It is all there, has not been run in years,maybe decades. $250. So what is the parts situation for old Kawasaki's? At the least it will need seals gaskets, maybe top end. I look it up on Parts Bandit but they do not list anything for it, same with Bike Barn.

anonny 05-21-2010 07:08 AM

You could search this site

http://www.reproductiondecals.com/default_frameset.html?content.html~main

if he has parts for your model, I found him to be very reliable.

sjc56 05-21-2010 07:29 AM

Thanks. Neat site.

d2wing 05-21-2010 07:55 PM

I can't help much but I had one. They are pretty easy to work on. They are rotary valve.

Dabears 05-21-2010 08:23 PM

I've got the same bike- Silver. Best parts source is Ebay. Challenge items to find are 6volt bulbs and good body pieces. I have had good luck finding everything I've needed (and I've needed plenty) but you need to be patient- it'll eventually turn up on ebay!

Most important thing to get is the parts diagram with the part numbers. I have one in soft copy so PM me with your email address and I'll send you a copy as well as a soft copy of a manual. Parts from the F7-C won't necessarily fit the F7A, etc, but some F7 parts will fit the F6 and the 250 & 350 models. Always check part numbers before buying.

They're fun little bikes, but they were lots faster back when I was 14 and weighed 120 pounds!

A couple of pointers- Do Not run it without a battery! The engine will run fine, but the battery provides storage for excess power from the charging system- Otherwise you'll get to replace every single bulb on the bike like I did!

If you have any specific questions just shoot me a message. Have fun.

sjc56 05-22-2010 06:50 PM

PM sent!

sjc56 05-22-2010 07:06 PM

Well I brought it home last night. It was stored behind a 37 Studebaker sedan.
Bike is all there, nice seat, dent less tank but needs paint. It is missing the carburetor cover and the snorkel thing that comes off the air box. No key though, I am hoping the 3 numbers on the switch are the key code. I just spent $143 getting a key made for my KLR.
It came with a spare motor and frame with swing arm. Seems to have good compression when kicked over.
I found a kawasaki parts web site and was really surprised how many parts you can still get, you can get a new tank for $185. cheaper then paint and decals.

http://www.kawasakipartshouse.net/pa.../Kawasaki.aspx

I'll post some picks Sunday.

sjc56 05-22-2010 07:30 PM

Also I was advised before even trying to start it (when I get a key, how hard is it to bypass the switch?) to replace the crank case seals because they will be worn out so bike will not run. I'm not sure which seals he was referring to,though i have read this about other two strokes.

sjc56 05-23-2010 04:00 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Here it is.

Dabears 05-23-2010 01:15 PM

Steve-
Just sent you the PDF of the manual and parts diagram. You should have no problem finding a key on Ebay using the number that's on the ignition- Some has an add up all the time- they aren't cheap, but it's better to get the right key because it works the fork lock and the seat lock as well.

I have heard the same about the seals as well, but although mine sat up it fired right up and has run fine ever since.

One thing to be aware of- the fuel petcock is not the usual on/off/reserve. It is vacuum operated, so the positions are On/Reserve/Prime. Don't leave it in Prime, or your crankcase will likely fill with fuel. If you need to get fuel in the float bowl- use prime while you try to start the bike, but after that just leave it permanently in the "On" position. I've never moved mine since I got it sorted.

Have fun! Feel free to IM me with questions. Dave

Dabears 05-23-2010 02:14 PM

http://uncledave.smugmug.com/Motorcy...69_yGWWA-M.jpgLooking closer at your pictures make me think your bike is a 1973. The blue color was offered in 73 and 74, but the 74 taillight is "D" shaped while the 73 has a circular cover. Also, the 74s had unpainted engine cases with flat black cylinders and head.

If true, this means yours would be considered an F7B model- important to know when checking for parts.

dduelin 05-23-2010 02:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sjc56
Also I was advised before even trying to start it (when I get a key, how hard is it to bypass the switch?) to replace the crank case seals because they will be worn out so bike will not run. I'm not sure which seals he was referring to,though i have read this about other two strokes.

The one I had in 71 or 72 was easy to bypass the key. As I recall I you had to do was disconnect the plug-in from the switch to the wiring harness and off you went.

sjc56 05-23-2010 04:57 PM

Great advice, I'm going to unplug the switch and see if I have a spark. I just bought a petcock on ebay. I need a muffler baffle, found a nos on ebay. I may go that route I could buy a whole muffler but with shipping it ends up costing as much as a new insert.
Dave nice looking bike. I was thinking of leaving mine a little rough so I can take it off road with out to much worry.

sjc56 05-23-2010 05:20 PM

Well I ran out to the garage pulled the plug and......no spark, rats.

sjc56 05-24-2010 09:00 AM

I order a key, battery, so hopefully this will get me to see if it will run. Till I get the parts I'll spend some time cleaning up grounds and connectors.


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