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Dan Căta 10-20-2010 12:44 AM

R 1100/1150 GS/RT/RS/R/S throttle body repair kit
I can re-haul intakes for all 1100 an 1150 BMW boxer motorcycles.

After using the bike for a few years, the spindle and the intake bushings get worn, resulting in the spindle play, resulting in that annoing rattle and may leading to bike surging.

I can fix your intake if you send it over or I cand send you a complete rebuild kit and do the work yourself.

A kit contains:
  • a new splindle(shaft);
  • necessary bushings;
  • set of complete o-rings;
  • the small screws that hold the plate to the shaft.
Having the intake full repaired is just like having a new one, but at a fraction of a cost.

Just contact me specifying what bike model do you have and the manufacture year.

The price is 60$ + shipping.


cpuckett812 10-23-2010 02:11 AM

Hey Dan, I need one of these kits on my bike bad. Im tired of having random numbskulls commenting "your valves are rattling". I've got a 95 r1100gs. Im in the process of troubleshooting a no start problem right now, but would like to make your kit the next purchase after I get that straightened out. If you don't mind, can you email me the price for having you install it, also any contact info and payment instructions. My email is Thanks, have a good one

Dan Căta 10-23-2010 02:24 AM

Email sent.


Dan Căta 11-13-2010 07:13 AM

I will try to describe how to install the repair kit for the right side TB.
No special tools required, just what you have around in the garage is enough.

Once you take the TB off from the bike, you have to:
  • take off the 2 small screws holding the plate to the shaft;
  • take the aluminum cap off;
  • go WOT and take off the throttle plate from the shaft by pushing it towards one side or another in the throttle body;
  • take off the big screw holding the pulley to the shaft;
  • take off the pulley from the shaft;
  • put the throttle spring and plastic spacers somewhere;
  • get the thin washer and put it somewhere secure;
  • take off the o-ring towards the pulley;
  • using your fingers, push the shaft out towards where the aluminum cap used to be;
  • take out the outer o-ring;
You will now have the shaft and a washer and a c-clip on it. Take them off.

Disassembling is pretty easy, just follow the above steps in the order I have written them and it should be ok.

Now... How to reassembly everything.

First thing is to get the old bushings out. They might not be worn, but you will have to take them out and put the new ones from the kit instead.

This is what I have used to get them out. Some may say you need to heat the TB in order to expand and get them out easy, but I consider that they are too small and expand themselves because of that.

At the right side, there's a 13 screw. In the middle, there's a piece of copper wire, it has to be a 1 piece and not the multi-thread one.

The thing is, the screw is not as thick as the bushing, so you will have to put the wire in, and then screw in the smaller screw, so that it makes a thread inside the bushing and allow you to press it back form the other side. A screw tap is better if you have one around, but I didn't.

I have used 2 pcs of wood to support the TB and the longer screw inserted in the other side to hammer the small screw out, together with the old bushing.

Do the same thing in order to take the other side bushing out.

Now it's time to put the new bushings in.

*********LATER EDIT***********

Looks like there is a small issue with the replacements bushings, especially the small one on the L/H side TB, near the TPS side.

It looks like it is too tight on the outside, basically making it not stay fixed in the TB.

The fix is to "enlarge" it slightly so that it stays in and not fall out. You can do that using a cutter or some other sort of blade, that allows you to make it a little more wider. There is no risk of over doing it, because when it gets pressed in, it will come to the right size, once fitted inside the TB.

This is how the bushings come from the provider and I could not do anything to foresee this issue, but it can be easily fixed once you start getting your hands dirty.

Thanks for understanding!

Oil the outside of it for a more easy install.

On the longer screw, adjust the nut in order to get this:

What you see near the nut is one of the old bushings, used to press/hammer the new one in.

Put the new bushing on the hole and gently hammer it in a little so that it stays in place. Don't press it to far in because it will bend because of the hammering.

Now... put the long screw and the used bushing on top of the new one and press it in all the way.

Have a look from the inside of the TB to make sure that it's seated all the way in. It should look like this:

Do the same for the other side and you will then have this:

Now that you have installed the new bushings in, it's time to assembly the rest.

Install o-rings on the both sides, over the new bushings:

Now, take the spindle and put the c-clip on it and the thicker washer under it like so:

Now press the shaft from the aluminum cap side towards the engine side:

Now put the thinner washer over the o-ring like so:

Put one of the plastic washers over the shaft:

Put the spring back on:

Put the other plastic washer over the spring.

It's time to pot the pulley over the spindle, but first, and this is important.

The spindle has 2 holes in it, where the 2 small screws would fit in and hold the plate. When installing the pulley in the shaft

Make sure that the chamfers in the spindle allow you to screw in the two small screws in the direction from the air box towards the engine.

Here's a little trick that I use to get the spring on the pulley very easy. Get a thin piece of wire of any kind and grab the spring, install the pulley and then pull the spring using the wire in order to get it on the pulley indent.

Now, insert the plate in the spindle:

And put the 2 small screws in:

After you insert it in the shaft and move the pulley a couple of times until it is centered, put the screws in the kit inside the shaft and tighten them. Then secure them with the nuts and then you punch the end of the screws in the "+" pattern, to make sure the nuts would not come off because of the vibration or anything. They should not come off anyway, but just as a safety measure...

Also, put the aluminum cap back on the side of the TB.

Screw in the nut on the spindle, on top of the pulley. Don't overtighten it! It won't come off!


Now, make sure that the pulley and shaft + plate spin freely and come back by themselves to rest on the resting screws.

Replace the large o-ring on the TB where it meets the thick plastic pipes and also replace the o-ring on the BBS.

I will post the same thing for the L/H TB soon.


Dan Căta 11-17-2010 12:19 AM

Now for the left hand side TB ;)

First thing, undo the two screws holding the TBS to the TB.

Gently pull the TPS out of it's place

Here's how it looks on the inside

Now undo the two small screws that hold the plate

Go WOT and get the plate out from the old shaft

Now undo the big nut on the pulley side

Note that there is a slim washer on the shaft, under the not. Don't let that one fall off

Get the shaft out by pressing it with your finger, from the pulley side towards the TPS side; if it's not working with your finger, get it out using a small hammer, but be very gentle!

Note that there is a c-circlip and a washer on the shaft; the circlip has to be renewed, it's in the new kit ;)

Now take the pulley out. It's held by the spring so you may have to de-attach the spring from one side first in order to get the pulley out.

Get the old o-ring out. The new one is provided in the kit. There is an oring only on the pulley side, the one in the TPS side is actually mounted on the TPS and it does not see any action, and it doesn't wear.

Now you will have to take the old bushings out. I didn't do that on this TB because it was OK and didn't need anything, but you can follow the procedure from the post above, the R/H intake, it works just the same.
The only difference is that on this side, one bushing is shorter, 9 mm, unlike the other ones, 12 mm.

After you have removed the old bushings and installed the new ones, it's time to re-assembly everything back as it was.

On the new shaft, install the c-clip and the thick washer like so

Press the shaft into the TB

Don't press it all the way in, only like this, because you won't be able to install the pulley ;)

Put the o-ring on the shaft, it's in the kit

Now, put one plastic bushing on the TB, put the spring, put the other plastic bushing over the spring. Note the spring position

To do things more easy, use the same trick with some wire pulling the spring ;)

You don't have to pull now, just install the wire there ;)

Now it's time to insert the pulley onto the TB

Once you get it in this position, allign the shaft to it, making sure that in rest position, the screws that hold the plate to the shaft can be screwd in the way the air flows from the airbox to the engine.

Now you can press the shaft intop the pulley all the way in.

Get the spring attached to the pulley

Make sure that the spring stays where it's supose to

Now get the plate into the shaft

This would have to be the harders and most time-consuming job, but don't worry, you will be able to get the plate in and the pulley to rest on it's stopping screw ;)

Now, screw the parge nut on the pulley part. Don't over doi it, as it doesn't need to be screwed too hard! It won't come off neighter by itself

Now, make sure that the plate rests on it's stopping screw, go WOT and let the spring do it's job, you should hear that "klank" sound.

Make sure that the TPS looks like this where it meets the TB

You want that part to be alligned with the shaft in the resting position.

Attach the TPS to the TB, just pres it in

Now screw the two screws holding the TPS, but not too tight, as you will be needing to adjust it after mounting the TB to the bike.

And... voila!

Remember that after doing a TB job, you will need to
  • sync the bike;
  • attach the ground cable if you are doing the L/H side TB;
  • also, if the left TB is done, you will need to adjust the TPS; example here
  • clean the TB's with plenty of carb cleaner, you don't want any dirt to be sucked into the engine
That's it!


Dark Helmet 12-05-2010 03:56 PM

Great product

I just did my right TB and can't believe how quiet it is now. Instructions were spot on, nice job on the photos. The new shaft and bushings are very tight!

Using the copper wire to remove the busihings worked great. I had to use heat on the aluminum cap side as even with the copper wire tap I couldn't get it to work. Heating the TB helped a lot in getting it out. Also, my aluminum cap was bonded to the TB and it took heat to get it to come loose as well.

Everything worked great, so thanks for the great instructions. Oh yeah, this kit was $100 less than the company kit that made the TB's. Can't believe it would be any better.


GAS GUY 01-11-2011 12:01 PM

a couple of questions on your rebuild kits.

1- how much is shipping to the us ??

2-is the shaft the same as the stock dimensions ? do you have to use the bushing included or can you just put your shaft in the stock bushing?are all the dimensions the same ?

3-who makes the parts? where are the parts made ?

Dan Căta 01-11-2011 12:48 PM


Originally Posted by imjinscout (Post 14914010)
a couple of questions on your rebuild kits.

1- how much is shipping to the us ??

2-is the shaft the same as the stock dimensions ? do you have to use the bushing included or can you just put your shaft in the stock bushing?are all the dimensions the same ?

3-who makes the parts? where are the parts made ?


1-depends on where in the USA. It's between 13 and 19$, more or less.
2-the shaft is the same. You can reuse the bushings but why, new bushings are provided in the pack, and it's not a hard time swapping the old ones.
3-I make them. The precision on the cnc machines I use is pretty good, it goes to 0.001 mm ;) And I ship them from Romania.


bbbrumbrum 02-07-2011 09:43 AM

Hey Dan,

Could you contact me through mail, I'm in need of your kit.


Dan Căta 02-07-2011 10:28 AM

Email sent ;)


Gintaronas 02-17-2011 04:39 AM

Hi, what i found out was that my TBs have no locknuts on the inner side (pulleys). To assemble the TB, I need a locknut which screwes on the new shaft (spindle). Unfortunately those are not included in the kit.

BTW, if you look really close at the picture in the first post of this thread (I think it is a picture of 1150 TB), you can see, that there is no locknut to keep the pulley on the shaft...

Dan Căta 02-17-2011 04:41 AM

Yeah, I fixed this in the meanwhile...


riggard 02-23-2011 07:21 AM

Hey, just a short question, is the 60 dollar for a kit to repair left and right or for one side only?

Dan Căta 02-23-2011 07:25 AM


Originally Posted by riggard (Post 15259344)
Hey, just a short question, is the 60 dollar for a kit to repair left and right or for one side only?

One side only. Way cheaper than the OEM repair kit though.


Mike Philippens 03-05-2011 04:39 PM

I read about the rattle and now I'm wondering if that's the rattle I hear lately with my R850RT. It's fine when I don't toch the throttle (idling). But when I just tension the throttle cable a little bit, the revs are not rising yet, I hear this rattle. Not very loud, but it is there. It seems to come from the left side. First I thought it was the valves, but I don't notice any drop in performance whatsoever. It runs as smooth as ever, it's just that rattle.

A couple of questions:
*do I need to do both sides at the same time? They are subjected to the same wear.
*I have a 1997 R850RT. Are the throttle bodies the same?
*what are other effects of the wear? What's this surge?
*My bike's got nearly 160.000km on the clock. Is that a reasonable milage for this wear?

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