DR650SE Index Topic #4- SUSPENSION/CHASSIS
A lot of material in this category... What improvements have you made to your DR's suspension? :ear
FRONT SUSPENSION UPGRADES:
REAR SUSPENSION UPGRADES
SWAPPING SUSPENSIONS FROM OTHER MOTORCYCLES
i run the proper spring rate and intiminators valves in the forks
and a cogent rear shock w/ the proper spring
unreal improvement over stock!
Bump for the day shift...
I'm running Eibach 0.5 springs with emulators in the front. Eibach 8.3 springs with Sasquatch rebuilt shock in the rear.
The pig does not wallow anymore! :clap
Eibach springs front and rear, no shock mods or fork mods.
Big difference nonetheless in squishiness and fork dive. I weigh 195.
I tried the Gold valves and upgraded springs. I thought they were great at the time.
If you were going to do back road touring, dirt road riding, maybe some desert twin tracks, the upgraded standard setup is fine.
For a rider of say 140lbs or more, the standard setup is disgraceful. No real workable adjustment on the bike, it does have compression adjustment on the rear, but I could find very little difference in it. It went from really bad to just bad.
It would be nice to have some fork adjustment externally though.
I looked at a couple of guys bikes that had DRZ 400 forks with heavier springs and revalving. To tell the truth, the DRZ option still appeals to me. I have another DR (my sons bike that I have inherited along with the loan due to his newly arrived daughter) with the upgraded standard forks. I'm going to start using it to ride to work soon, so I might end up doing some modifications.
For my trail riding DR I decided to go with the RMZ suspension swap.
I chose the RMZ because I wanted motoX suspension travel and the adjustability. I have to say, it was worth swapping just to be able to adjust the compression and rebound front and rear.
Using all the RMZ parts unmodified was the tough decision. I wanted to make it so I could buy stuff straight off the shelf. So that meant modifying the frame to take the rear end. The first cut is the hardest. After that failure drives you forward.
For my standard DR I'm thinking of concentrating on getting it sorted using all genuine Suzuki parts, and keeping it looking as standard as I can. So I'm thinking DRZ swap. It will also keep it closer to standard height.
Ebay is my friend.
I did the .50 straight rate springs up front and its been a great improvement. Nothing else done yet, maybe later. Same with the rear, just a heavy 8.3 ProCycle spring that does not require an adapter. I run 3" static sag with my 280 pounds squashing things down. :D
Just the springs help big time when you are not a light weight. The stiff rear spring handles my weight and my camping gear very well on tour.
Cogent rear mod with the stock spring.
RaceTech cartridge emulators and .46 RaceTech springs in the forks. (195 lbs w/o gear)
Completely transformed the bike into a very competant offroader.
I enjoy this bike now in the rough as much as my KTM's. The limiting factor is the ground clearance and the weight.
As long as I stay out of the bottomless mud and the rock gardens it's fantastic.
I'm not fat...I'm just big boned.
What upgrades should a 300 pound guy look into ? besides a set of dump truck springs.
Test ride: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...ostcount=36502
Update: Still love the change.
Suzuki designed the DR650 with a suspension that is changable, to allow the chassis to be lowered. The procedure is outlined in this thread: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=176223...
Lowering the chassis does require a shorter sidestand. Suzuki sells one, or the stock one can be shortened...
home brew lowered pegs required me to modify the brake lever.
this is my version
I added some spikies during the burn
If you have a welder and lowered you pegs and want to do the brake lever, just make the cuts and take it to a welder
i guess this section includes footpegs.
i use those ebay ones from d2moto.
cheap, strong & work great!
procycle has lowered pegs in a full kit that includes mounts & wide pegs.
his design move the pegs down but not back, plus nothing protudes below the skid plate.
others make just lowering plates that move the peg down & back, plus it hangs below the plate.
I posted this info on the big one, http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...5295&page=2831 but thought it might be more useful for someone here:
<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" width="100%"> <tbody><tr> <td class="alt2" style="border: 1px inset;"> Originally Posted by danbeck
Out of curiosity, where abouts did you score the ohlins from? I've had a bit of a look around and apart from references from people saying they've used them, I can't find where to buy them:confused Whats the damage? Are they hidiously expensive? Will I cry when my wife finds out how much?
</td> </tr> </tbody></table>
I got mine on ebay after following Mezo's thread.
Cost me $190 Aud delivered for one like on the right of Mezzos pic with a proper Ohlins spring, albeit a 5.1 which is a waste of time for me.
I have to add to the cost a new 8.5 spring and revalve to suit, and I'm also shortening the reservoir 5 mm to clear the FMF header where it joins to the tailpipe which may not be needed with a stock pipe. I may not have needed to do it either as I had 1-2 mm clearance, but while the shock's apart its easy enough. the shock clears the air box and frame easily. The total cost will be less than a Racetech or Cogent rebuild and will be superior due to the Ohlins body and inherent Ohlins quality.
According to my Ohlins contact, the 95,96,97,98 KTM shocks were 461.5mm long with 134mm travel. The DR shock is 455mm long with 128mm travel. This means that the extra length is also shock travel and bottoming isn't an issue.
The extra 6.5 mm length equates to 12 mm at the axle further away from the frame, ie swingarm droop. The DR swingarm ratio is 2.8:1, but it seems that at full droop it is actually 2:1. This results in the link just kissing the swingarm at full droop, but a little file work fixes this.
The top bush is 24 mm and the Suzuki is 30 mm. You can tack weld some washers in the frame, or get some more and smaller hands when assembling. Alternately Ohlins can supply a 30 mm bush for no frame mods and ease of assembly and this is what I'm getting.
The bottom yoke on the Suzuki is 30 mm between cheeks, the Ohlins 32 mm. You can easily fit 2 x 1 mm shim washers to fill the space.
I should have mine fitted later this week or next for testing. Ohlins are great because they can be adapted, valved and sprung, to suit many/all applications
My WP front end should arrive today :clap
shed time IS quality time
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