Code Orange: Building up Three and a Half KTM 690 R's
The Basterds are heading to the orange side of the fence. We are building up four 690R's for adventure duty.
Why this thread?
Because I would like to document and illustrate what we do to make it easier for others who may have similar aspirations. Right now there are a few 690 threads and one giant threadfest which is like a library without an index. Google helps but it's not ideal.
Planned mods (and walkthroughs if applicable):
Evaporative Canister Removal (DONE)
KTM radiator protector (DONE - write up pending)
Scotts Steering damper (James Renazco is putting out a rally style mount so I'm waiting for that)
Radiator fan fix (DONE)
Fuel line fix (DONE)
Radiator diffuser fix (DONE)
Radiator coolant hose fix
Fan power supply rub fix (DONE)
Rally-Raid side tanks install (DONE)
Rally-Raid 88 degree radiator fan switch install (PENDING)
Countersprocket step-up (Waiting on the ordered 14T CS)
Lynx fairing install (DONE)
Turn signal fix (This is resolved with the new exhaust)
FMF Q4 exhaust replacement (DONE)
Engine protection (G-it) (DONE)
Touratech pannier rack with Rear luggage rack (G-it) (DONE)
Uni USA foam filter (DONE)
Ignition map switch (DONE)
Heated grips (Pending Installation)
Renazco seat (DONE)
Rally-Raid lower and upper bolts (DONE)
G2 Throttle Tamer (Pending installation)
Delrin lower tank bolt bushings (Pending installation)
Painted the bike white (DONE)
Tune ECU modification (DONE)
There are others I can't recall of the top of my head.
Here are the stats:
Bartron: 2010 690R
Grizzler: 2011 690R
Getafix: 2011 690R
Ronyx: 2011 690R (but since he's in Calgary, he's the 'half')
I'll reserve the next few posts for our updates and invite anyone who has info or pics of these installs to chime in. I'm hoping that this will be a good DIY resource for all of us.
Ronyx and Grizzler's 690R
What's Getafix Saying?
Lateral protection to the radiator from the Rally Raid tanks is pretty good overall, but I didn't anticipate that the tank mount (the one with the rubber bushing) could get driven into the radiator and potentially puncture it. I'm don't know if the KTM rad guard solves the problem either as I don't have one.
I fashioned U shaped guards from 3/4" x 1/8" aluminum to wrap around the lower part of the radiator. They were a very snug fit, but I epoxied them on to ensure they stay there ...that mounting tab won't be puncturing anything anytime soon.
To limit wear of the lines on the frame, they were wrapped in electrical conduit for protection.
Miscellaneous Equipment Review
FMF Ti Q4 EXHAUST
PRO: Sound great and is one of the quietest exhausts available. Directs exhaust away from turn signal.
CON: I find myself twisting the right grip more just to hear it.
UPDATE: I swear it's getting louder.
G-It SKID PLATE
PRO: Great protection profile, thick and sturdy. Covers rear brake reservoir connection. Flat bottom makes placement onto a lift easy.
CON: Resonantes like a mother****** - badly needs some damping.
UPDATE: I lined the inside of the skid plate with adhesive roof ice and water shield which is essentially a thin sheet of asphalt. It does not smell, sticks very well and has cut out 95% of the annoyance.
G-It REAR RACK
PRO: Sturdy construction, reasonable surface area. Requires offests from the tank-mounted threaded inserts that are longer in the front and shorter in the back. These are provided in anodized billet aluminum and work perfectly.
CON: Flex in the rear fender and rack mean that the two make contact on bumpy terrain. Ideally the rack would include a rubber stopper between it and the bike fender like the Touratech rack has to prevent this from happening.
TOURATECH PANNIER RACK
PRO: Expands luggage options and provides further reinforcement to the limited subframe. Although made by the same company, the Touratech product secures with two struts to the peg mounts whereas the KTM rack with only one. Fitment uses equal length spacers at all four threaded insert sites.
CON: Combining with the G-It rack was complicated as we had to use a variety of spacers (nuts and washers) to achieve the right slope for the rear rack and ended up being able to use the stock stainless G-It bolts provided. This fix is kinda ghetto and we'll get some one to machine up some proper spacers to make this combo work. Adventure-Spec, if you're listening, you should offer a fit-kit for those of us running this popular pannier rack - and I presume the KTM rack as well.
GARMIN GPSMAP 78s & RAM MOUNT
PRO: Cheap, easy in and out.
CON: "Secure" fit began rattling wildly within 100 offroad miles. Had to use the lanyard that came with the gps to act as spacer between GPS and mount to improve security of fit. Also, the rollers that help to pop it in and out vibrate very loudly if not making direct contact with something. After 1,000 miles, I've ordered the Touratech mount.
LEO VINCE MAP SWITCH
PRO: Switch maps on the fly
CON: Once you find the map you like, there's little incentive to switch. I've modded the Aggressive map on TuneECU and use that one almost exclusively. Once the main map is dailed in (getting closer), then you don't need low power mode on technical stuff as much.
UPDATE: Will keep the switch primarily for the ability to switch into wimpy mode for the really tight stuff.
KTM OEM TOOLKIT
PRO: I had to add this because it's quite complete and included with the bike. Why can't BMW get this right. The included T-handle and bits can take off 95% of the bolts on the bike. Having relatively standard sizes of bolts on the bike is brilliant. Why does my F800GS require three different bolt sizes to secure the skid plate??
CON: Some of the larger torx bits needed to take the fuel tank off the frame are not included and could be handy on the trail to avoid having to get under the fuel tank and have the bike spill a golden shower on your face with gasoline.
UPDATE: Although there is a spanner that can accomodate 27mm (countershaft sprocket) and 32mm (rear wheel) it's hard to use in the field. I'm not worried about changing the countershaft sprocket in the field but for now the adjustable wrench will do duty on the rear.
WOLFMAN EXPEDITION BAGS
PRO: Relatively inexpensive, great mounting system, waterproof, good customer service.
CON: Small, some straps could be longer to accommodate large but light bulky loads. The abrasion resistant panel on mine has started to detach from the velcro during last years Tour of Idaho. Plan to contact Wolfman to get a replacement. The bags can be a challenge to purge so an air purge valve would greatly add to their value - if compression bags for sleeping bags have purge valves, it can't be that complicated.
GIANT LOOP MOJAVE
PRO: Small profile with reasonable storage. Easy to access and tight to the bike.
CON: Definitely not waterproof without applying the silicone sealant (which I've yet to do). The amount of storage is deceiving and isn't as much as you'd think although it can hold all my spare rubber and tools.
RENAZCO RACING SEAT
PRO: Stock seat is a torture device designed for the ass of a Lego character.
CON: Not cheap and there is a waiting list ranging from 2 to 6 months. We got James to order some OEM KTM seats for us at $100 USD each which when compared to missing your own seat and the shipping charges to send the seat out made a lot of economic sense.
UPDATE: Myself and Ronyx got the standard height done. We both find that there could be a bit more padding or higher density padding available. More concerning however is that we both feel there is a slight forward lean to the seat which means with vibration you end up sliding forward and onto your nads - which weren't designed for being sat on.
Some comparative pics:
The seating area is much wider and flat not to mention the high-quality foam.
Links of Interest
These are resources I've used and are thankful for:
Stuff worth reading:
Vendors we like (unsolicited) and have had great relationship-building purchases with:
James and Sonia Renazco at RenacoRacing.com
Ron at KTMTwins.com
Ian at BritanniaComposites.com
Exhaust Canister Removal
Why is there a canister?
EPA requirements require gasoline vapour to pass through charcoal canister to be scrubbed.
Why is it on my bike?
Bikes brought into North America have the canisters. Canadian bikes have them because the US ones do.
Why get rid of it?
For some it's the aesthetic. For others it's equipment fitment as you can't install some aftermarket tanks with the canister in place. Functional reason is that it can hold moisture or fill with water in a drop and choke your bike leading to stalling issues/inoperability. Lastly, some FI maps may not even sense it hence there's no point for it (I'm not 100% sure on which ones).
I took it off because I could and because I needed the space for the RR tanks.
Take off the right-hand side (RHS) and rear fender body panels and you will see the large black plastic box with lots of tubing. The intimidating tubing aside, this is an easy fix.
There are several methods to do this. I will discuss two of them. The partial canisterectomy involves no soldering while the total canisterectomy does. Judge your soldering skills accordingly.
The tubing scavenges vapour at the gas cap and feeds that to the canister which is then connected to an electronic valve assembly and then to the throttle body.
Start by removing the gas cap and you will find the tubing attached.
Disconnect the tubing. If you plan on keeping your gas cap, you can attach a standard one-way valve in any configuration to that gas-cap nipple. If you plan on replacing it, you will be installing an aftermarket cap with one-way vent anyhow. The tank must vent as this is the only place to allow room for expansion of air due to temperature or volume changes.
I waved goodbye to the original gas cap and put on a billet filler neck from Renazco Racing and topped it off with a KTM one-way valve.
Once disconnected, pull the tubing through the frame to the canister. Take the canister off the frame by undoing the awkward bolts behind it. Gravity will pull it out of the way and you then follow the tubing to the valve assembly - in the centre of the pic.
Unplug the tubing connected on one end to the canister from the valve assembly. The empty nipple will rotate and can be removed to reveal a larger opening. Either one can be plugged/capped with a 1/4" ID vacuum cap (rubber cap) and a zip-tie or one of the removed spring clips.
If you don't want to mess with taking the airbox off or doing soldering, this is the quick fix. You're done.
If you want to convert the partial to a total canisterectomy at the same time or down the road, you will need another 1/4" vacuum cap and will also have to wire into the valve circuit a 22K Ohm 1/4 watt resistor - hence the soldering.
Remove the valve assembly off the frame and unplug it from the bike. Disconnect the tubing attached to the throttle body seen here.
Plug it with a 1/4" ID vacuum cap cut down to size.
Now that the rubber and plastic is all gone, you'll have to fool the system into thinking the valve is still there. Cut off the plug and include a 22K Ohm 1/4w resistor inline. Polarity does not matter, essentially you are connecting the two wires with a resistor.
The resistors often come in a variety pack - making it tough to find the one you need.
You can identify the one you need because it is marked (red)(red)(orange)(gold) meaning (20)(2)(x1000 Ohm)(5% variance).
Once soldered to some wire, I folded it being careful not to fold too close to the resistor, and sealed it with multiple layers of adhesive shrink wrap. I also added quick-disconnects to make reversal to stock easier.
Once connected to the bike wires where I cut off the original plug, I wrapped it in electrical tape and zip-tied it to the frame in a secure spot.
Now start the bike and look for the flashing FI light - it shouldn't flash. All done.
Why is there a Secondary Air System?
To allow addition of airbox air to the post-engine exhaust before the catalytic convertor in the stock exhaust.
Why is it on my bike?
The stock exhaust has a catalytic convertor - and the bike comes with the stock exhaust.
Why get rid of it?
Some don't like the idea of another electronic thing that can choke your bike leading to stalling issues/inoperability. Also, some FI maps may not even sense it hence there's no point for it (I'm not 100% sure on which ones). Lastly, if you change the exhaust and no longer have a catalytic convertor - you don't need an SAS.
I took it off because I could and because it cleans up the area under the airbox - oh, and because of the exhaust change.
The SAS valve is prominent on the LHS of the bike under the LHS side panels and connects to the top of the engine and the bottom of the airbox. You've undoubtedly noticed the connection when removing the airbox for any work.
You could probably do this without removing the airbox but I have banana-hands and not lady-fingers so I had to. Remove the SAS valve assembly and follow the hoses to the airbox and engine - disconnect the hoses at both points. Unplug the SAS valve from the wiring harness, now throw it under a train.
Using the stock circle clips, attach 1/2" ID vacuum plugs at the airbox and engine head.
Once you've discarded all that tubing and the SAS valve, you will need to splice the 22k Ohm 1/4w resistor into the plug wiring as above with the total canisterectomy. I cut off the plug, trimmed some of the excess wiring and installed quick-disconnects as above to enable easy reversal. Same dealio with the adhesive shrink wrap and electrical tape overload.
Now you have more room to route wiring for more farkles and less criss-crossing tubage.
Rally Raid Tanks Install
If you managed to buy these when they are not backordered or sold out you're a lucky guy. Now you get to start saving for fuel to fill them up.
Ron at KTM Twins was absolutely excellent about getting these to us. We ordered two sets in black and two sets in natural. I like mine natural as I can clearly see the fuel - and they match the bike.
The install instructions are pretty rudimentary and sometimes gloss over parts of the install or are missing pictures. I'm going to post things that we thought could trip you up or would have been nice to know ahead of time. Take lots of 'before' pictures so if you can't remember where something went, you have a point of reference.
Best to start with the bike totally naked.
If you haven't done so, you will need to perform some version of the canisterectomy as the space for the canister will shortly be occupied with fuel.
First section involves the electrics. The voltage regulator has to be relocated onto the bracket RR provides. You will need to file/sand the frame tabs that used to hold the ignition coil to enable clean electrical contact/ground. Also pay attention to the orientation of the voltage regulator once mounted on the RR bracket. The ignition coil mounts on the same bracket. Choosing a clear path and orientation for all the wiring associated with the ignition coil and voltage regulator will make a difference in how clean and contained your install is.
Lots of wiring to contend with.
I ran the voltage regulator and ignition coil wiring over and behind the bracket. The bracket has a natural cut-out there that I though would work well for the purpose. To avoid wear on the wiring from the metal, I used a small piece of plastic door trim to protect the wiring.
Also, because I was running the ignition coil wiring behind the mount and was worried about the two bolts on the mount wearing down the wiring I used two 1/4" ID vacuum plugs to cover the exposed bolts and protect the wiring. You can just make out the rubber cap shadows in the photo above.
Once the wiring is in place, you'll need to route it along the frame - another great reason to have the airbox out.
Next-up is the fuel pump. You will need to access the fuel pump which is at the bottom of the tank. I happened to be swapping out the upper and lower tank bolts anyway so flipping the tank up was the natural choice. Getafix didn't realize this and did the install by removing the rear tire - that must have sucked.
You should siphon out as much fuel as you can out of the tank to prevent a gasoline shower. However, by tipping the tank up like this, you can safely have a small amount of fuel in there. Just be sure to have a safety strap as above to prevent the thing from falling on your head. When you undo the four bolts and take the assembly out you will notice two clips in the sides of the assembly which secure the pump inside. Release them so you can take the pump out. Inspect your pump.
My pump has ZERO kilometers on it and the prefilter is covered with this gunk. I took it off and washed it clean. Whatever gunk I found past the filter I picked out as well. I don't know if this is simply old fuel or what - thoughts of pump failure rang out loud. The hoses also dried with a bunch of white residue on them which I brushed off with an old tooth brush. Again, not sure what this crap was but it wasn't pretty.
Modification of the pump housing is straightforward and two holes are easily drilled through the plastic to allow more fuel to the pump. The billet spacer block provided that routes accessory fuel into the main tank serves as a template for one of the holes to be drilled. Be careful putting everything back in. I placed it all in with the help of a twist. Instead of just jamming it in there and hoping it doesn't kink, I twisted/spun it in so it would coil rather than kink. Tighten the bolts. DO NOT lower the tank unless you have somehow prevented the fuel from flowing out of the newly created connecting - don't ask me how I know. I connected the fuel line (in the OFF) position to the new inlet to prevent the free flow. Further routing would be done later and is simple - avoid kinks and potential points of wear-through.
Following step is positioning of the tanks on the frame. For this you remove the original black 'air breather' in the frame with a smaller RR one to make room. The side tanks are attached to the frame by way of skewers that you mount. In my opinion, mounting the tanks is the most crucial step of this entire install. The relief in the tanks into which the frame and parts should fit is more of a gentle suggestion than an exact replica so it's not a 'LEGO' type fit. I positioned the tanks onto loose skewers and once happy with the fit to the frame, I would tighten the skewers by hand, then by tool. These things will stay as you put for the life of the tanks so getting them right is key.
They way you hang those tanks will also affect how your body panels mount. The forward mount is easy because you drill the body panel to make it fit. The upper mount relies on the plastics fitting into grooves a tank-mounted bracket. If your install is off, the panels barely fit into the grooves and thus are able to slip out and flap with ease.
Here is a shot that partially captures the skewer in question.
Lastly, the brackets that retain the upper body panels can be seen here, albeit from a distance. The two grooves there should theoretically line up with the two plastic tabs on the upper side fairing. Unfortunately, because of the way the tanks fit individually, these may be off - sometimes by a lot, sometimes by a little. Getafix used the plastic edge protection in the bracket to narrow the grooves and hold the plastic better. My plan is to redo them completely in aluminum stock and have a more secure fit.
Look closely on the fuel tank. You can see the bracket in question (the one with the arrow in it). You can also make out a threaded insert at the very nose of the tank for affixing the upper panel. Lastly, you can see two M6 screws in the two threaded inserts in the tank. These M6 inserts have no clear reason and can probably be used to affix small farkles.
When drilling the upper fairings for their mounting holes. Put the little screw into the threaded insert (most forward one on the side of the tank) and once you're happy with placement, press the plastic against the screw. It will leave an imprint that marks where you need your hole. Now, you can drill a pilot hole there and come in from the other side (because of the decals) for the final hole. I can't remember what they say as the drilling size in the instructions, but it's wrong. The hole you need is more like a 27/64 so I think I drilled a 13/32 and pushed it in with a slight bit of effort.
When I get to making the bracket, I'll add it here.
- After about a 1,000 offroad miles, I've made a few observations. The threaded inserts that attach the leading edge of the fairing are quite easy to torque out. Had to fix one already with super glue.
- As the tanks make snug contact with the frame, they can easily rub the paint away to the raw metal. I'm going to try and source some of that protective 3M clear vinyl they use on cars to create a thin protective barrier between the two surfaces.
- Rescuing others who ran out of fuel is easy with the way things are connected and bleeding one of the front tanks is a snap with some pliers for the ring clip and you can bend/kink the hose to change the amount of flow through it.
- The Rally Raid quick disconnects are great - when they are working. I'm not sure if it's a batch issue but so far 3 out of 6 tested leak from a little to a lot. Getafix got a replacement to tie him over from Ron at KTM Twins and eventually got the proper self-sealing replacement from Rally Raid with no fuss. Great to know these people stand behind their product.
- Having clear tanks provides a very easy visual method of determining gas volume - no guessing.
- Gas has to flow through 1/4" tubing so it takes a bit of time to transfer the fuel by gravity into the main tank.
- The extra weight over the front wheel can be nice in loose terrain.
- The extra girth is noticeable but you get used to it very quickly.
- The tanks need a bit of foam padding here and there to limit the rattling and abrasion of the body panel.
- The panels stay on snug if you use some car door edge trim to link the inner sides of the metal bracket making the fit of the body panels much more secure.
- I may end up using some old innertube to provide a barrier between some frame/guard points and the tanks. I worry that their softish plastic can be susceptible to wear-through.
RADIATOR DIFFUSER MOUNT
Problem: With a fall, the displacement of the plastic radiator diffuser can pull out the bolt from the soft radiator, causing a leak.
Fix: Secure guard to radiator with a zip-tie instead of the bolt.
I have the KTM radiator guard installed, which is why this pic may look odd to some of you. With the zip-tie in position as below, there is rubbing of the triple with the guard. I changed the zip-tie to run to the inside and rubbing is minimal now. Without the offset of the KTM rad guard, there would be no rubbing.
COOLING FAN CONTACT WITH RADIATOR
Problem: The plastic shroud around the cooling fan on pre-2011 690's can make contact with the radiator and eventually causing a leak/damage to the radiator.
Fix: Add a spacer to the top mounting screw to offset the fan - although there is debate about this decreasing the cooling efficiency. Alternatively/concurrently, you can run a strip of plastic edge guard around the plastic rim of the fan to protect the radiator.
IRREGULAR THROTTLE RESPONSE/SURGING
Problem: The FI system is prone to a lack of smoothness. Sometimes this is due to a lack of calibration or failure to recalibrate after adjustments.
Fix: Anytime there are changes to the exhaust/intake/engine management systems, the bike benefits from a 15 min idle and a throttle adjustment.
The 15 minutes idle involves letting the bike idle for 15 minutes without ANY throttle input. After 15 minutes, turn off with key.
The throttle adjustment involves key'ing on, slowly opening throttle to full and slowly coming back to closed, then turn off with key.
For many people this has made things much better - it's not a panacea but the improvements can be significant.
AIR FILTER LEAKAGE
Problem: The lack of a solid seal between airbox and air filter can allow small debris and dust to enter unfiltered.
Fix: Run a bead of hi-temp grease/lubricant around the edge of the filter or airbox to seal the interface.
FUEL LINE WEAR
Problem: The fuel line, as it runs near the left-hand upper tank mount bolt, is prone to wear to the point of leaking from abrasion against the mount bolt.
Fix: Protect the fuel line (innertube piece, zip-tie it out of the way). Replacing the upper tank mount bolts with the RR replacements helps here as their bolts are smooth on the inside and are unlikely to wear the fuel line to failure.
In this photo you can just see the fuel line peeking out between the airbox mount and the upper tank mount bolt.
RADIATOR FAN CONNECTOR
Problem: The connector from the wiring harness to the radiator fan can rub the radiator and cause a leak.
Fix: Secure the connector out of the way.
MELTED TURN SIGNALS
Problem: The stock exhaust points its hot fumes directly at the left indicator - melting it.
Fix: Many have replaced the stock indicators with LEDs (Sicass makes plug and play ones). Replacement of the stock exhaust also redirects the heat away from the turn signal.
Problem: There have been numerous documented failures of the upper tank mount bolts causing....trouble.
Fix: There is speculation that failure of the upper bolts is due to poor lower bolts. Thus, many replace both sets. Rally Raid makes a replacement set. Mudguts used to make them and I'm unsure if he still does. Changing these is easy and should be a prophylactic priority if your trips are longer, rougher or generally include some luggage to stress the mount bolts.
TURN SIGNALS COMING LOOSE
Problem: With vibration, the turn signals loosen and start to dangle
Problem: The fun factor leaves you twisting the throttle more and more. This bike chews through rear tires.
Fix: Get friendly with a tire distributor.
SKID PLATE NOISE
Problem: Depending on your skidplate, it can amplify engine sound and the vibration will cause it to resonate and be PITA annoying to you while riding and to others.
Fix: Affix/adhere some sort of dense object to the skid plate to help dampen the vibration and change the skid-plate harmonics. I'm planning on using some anti-resonance material from a car stereo install shop. Getafix bolted on some hockey pucks cut in half.
Update: I ended up using some butyl/tar adhesive ice and water shield designed for roofing onto the inside of the skid. Easy to cut into place and does a great job ad decreasing the resonance.
Problem: With little pullback/angle, the bars leave your hands/wrists a bit sore as their angle doesn't match the typical hand angle for us.
Fix: Getafix ordered some Fasstco Flexxbars while I'm probably going to go with some higher aftermarket bars and fill them with shot peen to limit vibration. I may add the PDHS anti-vibe stems but am currently waiting on the rally mount from Renazco for the stabilizer.
Lynx Fairing Install
I'm still waiting on time to finish the second version of the install.
After installation of our fairings, we contacted Ian at Britannia because at full decompression of the front suspension, the front brake cable would contact the instrument cluster and rub on it. To help this we cut out a much larger opening for the cable and moved the instrument cluster. I put mine on the handlebar clamps.
Ian has redesigned the dash to be mounted forward of the bars instead of underneath them. No more binding according to Getafix who's already done the install. The opening for the cables will likely still need to be made bigger.
I have also started to run the fairing without the windscreen. I find the air cleaner and thus less noisy. One of the thumb screws would keep coming loose.
Both Getafix and I have had several of the original bulbs burn out. We contacted Ian and he's sent out replacement with apologies. Wonderful service.
Heated Grip and G2 Throttle Tamer Install
This space reserved.
Tune ECU Experimentation
WARNING: Following any suggestions here is at YOUR OWN RISK of PERIL. I will not be held responsible for your misadventures but I would note that ECU's are available from KTM.
What you will need:
Computer or laptop running Windows XP or higher with USB port.
I'm a mac geek so this is as good as it gets for Windows at my house:
Microsoft Framework 2.0 to 3.5 installed. We had trouble getting the Framework 4.0 to work and had to revert to 3.5.
Download latest version of TuneECU from http://www.tuneecu.com
Download appropriate maps from TuneECU
Bike with fully charged battery
USB to OBD to KTM diagnostic plug cable (I sourced mine from CJRacer)
Patience and courage
Install the appropriate drivers for the OBD cable and ECU (explained on the TuneECU website) otherwise your bike will not connect
A word about maps:
EPT map: Determines the amount of throttle body opening relative to handlebar throttle input. Adjustment of this fly-by-wire throttle permits dramatic changes in response of the engine to throttle input.
FI map: Determines the amount of fuel delivered depending on engine load, RPM and throttle body input. This map may utilize the oxygen sensor or the SAI (secondary air intake).
There are FOUR maps I have experience with, all available on the TuneECU site. Each 'map' consists of two maps, the EPT and the FI map file. The TPS reset and a 15 min idle was carried out after each map change.
It would appear that maps that have "11" after the "KTM765EU" in the filename are specifically for 2011 bikes. This is my personal opinion, but I would NOT load any map with "08" instead of "11" onto a 2011 bike and vice versa. You're smart - you know what I'm saying here.
KM765EU0804031FIMap.hex and EPT map - This is the original 'Akro' map designed to take advantage of the PowerParts Akrapovic slip-on exhaust available from KTM. This map does NOT use the oxygen sensor or the SAI. This map is NOT compatible with 2011 bikes as they have a different throttle body.
REVIEW: I have used this map with the changes outlined and enjoyed it. It brought out the hooligan in me and the bike. There was no stalling, stuttering or surging.
KM765EU0804132FIMap.hex and EPT map - This is for the KTM EVO 1 kit which consists of the Akro exhaust and a modified airbox cover to allow more air entry. It DOES use the oxygen sensor and SAI.
REVIEW: I have used this map with the same changes as outlined. Over close to 1,000 miles I found it not as enjoyable as the '4031' map. No stalling issues but I found that it would surge, the idle was higher initially and it seemed like it hunted a little. After my experience with this map, I've gone back to the '4031' map.
KM765EU0800231FIMap.hex and EPT map - This may be the 'updated' version of the 'Akro' map. Likely still not compatible with the 2011's but in terms of the contents, all the fuelling and throttle parameters are the same as the '4031' map. It is essentially identical to the original Akro map and I do not know its purpose..
REVIEW: I have NOT loaded this map on my bike as it appears the same as the original '4031' map.
KM765EU11B0231FIMap.hex and EPT map - This is the 'Akro' map for the 2011 models with the updated throttle bodies. The EPT map is same as the previous 'Akra' maps. The FI map is different which makes sense given the new throttle bodies.
REVIEW: We have just loaded this onto Getafix's bike and plan to make the changes as above and will report how it goes. This map is not widely available and I was unable to attach it as a zip file for everyone but will email it to TuneECU.
You can "Read" maps from your bike. The process of transferring the maps from the bike to the comp is slow - be patient.
You can "Download" maps TO your bike. This process is faster.
Anytime you download a map to the bike, you overwrite what was there before. You will hear the bike click as it resets the ECU - this is normal.
1. Start your computer
2. Open TuneECU
3. Connect USB-Diagnostic plug cable to your bike's diagnostic plug (tucked in to rider's right of the fuses).
4. Turn ignition on
5. Plug in the USB to your computer
6. Within 30 seconds, a little rectangle will blink in the lower right-hand-corner of the application. Initially it will be red when sensing the connection and turn to green once a connection is established.
To disconnect, turn the ignition off. I have not tried to 'eject' the bike.
Three views are possible and can be selected in the top right-hand-corner.
Maps - allows view and editing of maps
Diagnostics - Allow you to see a wide variety of parameters the ECU is monitoring such as barometric pressure, oil temp, ambient temp, engine load, throttle voltage....
Tests - Allows you to perform several tests on the bike via the ECU
Spend some time familiarizing yourself with the information available and the application.
The opening screen is set to Triumph by default, it will change to KTM upon connection or loading a map.
Load up the EPT map of your choice, it will look like this:
You can see the subtle difference between the standard and performance maps. Choose performance as this is the one you want to edit (setting 2 on the handlebar map switch)
Although one first look this looks like a linear relationship it is not. To set it to be a perfectly linear relationship between throttle movement and throttle body opening that emulates a 'carb' feeling, change the values to 100%. You can change one cell and copy and paste to the rest.
Now have a look at the Soft map for comparison, notice how little throttle body opening there is for relative throttle movement? This will attenuate what happens when you accidentally twist the throttle in the tight stuff. Hence the reason for leaving the other maps alone and just modifying the performance one so you can retain the soft setting for the technical terrain.
Now save the map somewhere and remember where so you can download it to the bike.
We now move on to the FI map. Load the coupled FI map to the EPT map you were just working on.
This is what it will look like:
You will note that with the Akra maps, the F1/F2/F3 will be the same, as will the "I" and "L" maps. If your maps differ between L1/L2/L3, copy the L1 table and paste it to L2 and L3. This advice is based on the pre-2011 bikes and we are just experimenting how things will go with this step on Getafix's 2011.
To account for your air filter and exhaust set up, you can choose to richen the fuel mixture by a particular percentage across the RPM range. This is under the "F trim". This is the stock trim, zero:
On advice from Beaney and to run a bit on the rich side, I've upped my trim by 4%.
The L1/2/3 maps dictate how the engine responds with fuelling when under load. In discussing this with Beaney, he has found that most engines do well with 4-9% of added fuelling to all the 'L' maps. I've chosen to start with 4% for each of the three 'L' maps. Select the L map you want to augment.
Then select all the fields by dragging the mouse from the top left corner to the bottom right corner. You will note a little input box with up and down arrows in the bottom right corner.
Use the up arrow to dial things up by 4%.
Next is the F-L Switch. I'm NOT SURE, but believe it has to do with how the engine reacts to sudden load changes. This is the stock setting:
On advice from Beaney, many of us have made the following modification to prevent stalling and the dreaded 'flame-out'.
Now you're done. Save and download to the bike. Reset the EPT (iginition on, throttle full on then full off slowly, ignition off) and do the 15 min idle and you're ready - go and enjoy. Your fuel consumption will increase a little but the grin factor will more than make up for it.
- Thanks to Getafix, who had the stones to try it, you can name a map whatever you want as a filename and it will work. Also, remember to save a virgin copy of the map so you can revert in case you mess up.
- Augmenting the 'L' maps made a tremendous difference how the engine feels when lugging at low RPM's. It is much harder to stall and flame-out. Skipping this step will mean you lose a huge benefit of this mod.
In for future inane comments.
Front row seat
This space reserved, for my ass. Think of it as a front row seat to a great idea and what should be a very helpful thread!
I'll be watching from the "Center of Canada", or that's what the sign on my now hometown reads....
Looking forward to your project!
3 and a half 690's? Winning....:D
|Times are GMT -7. It's 07:20 AM.|
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2015, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014