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-   -   Cam-chain tensioner replacement - Photo Journal (http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=69360)

Poolside 02-17-2005 08:28 PM

Cam-chain tensioner replacement - Photo Journal
 
<BR>Last Saturday a friend and I changed the cam chain tensioner on his 2001 GS. Enjoy the photo journal.

To begin, here is some information that will address a few common preliminary concerns.
_____________________________


The method of replacing the cam chain tensioner described here does not require a throttle cable readjustment.

***********

The engine crankshaft does not have to be at TDC or BDC or any particular orientation.

But, the 'tension side' of the cam chain should be tight. And the 'slack side' of the cam chain should be slack. This only means that before you start the job, rotate the crankshaft a small amount in the direction it normally turns.

Turning the crankshaft by hand is easy to do. Put the bike on the centerstand and put the gearbox in top gear. Using your hands, rotate/bump the wheel forward until you feel some bit of engine compression, then stop.

Good. The cam chain slack is now on the tensioner side. The chain slack is on the tensioner side when the engine is running.

The chain slack is normally on the tensioner side. But, sometimes when the engine stops, the crankshaft rotates backward a small amount, 'slackening' the tension side. Turning the crankshaft a small amount returns the chain slack to the tensioner side.

***********

The original tensioner has a spring. And when unscrewing the tensioner, when the last thread is reached, the spring will push the tensioner body up from the bore.

The spring tension is gentle. Gentle as in about 2 pounds. About twice the spring tension of a retractable pen.

Also, no parts can fly across the room. The tensioner body will lightly contact the bottom side of the control arm, and stop. At that point the tensioner body will be only 2/3 of the way out of the bore. That is as far as it can go under its own power.



Getting the tensioner the rest of the way out of the bore will probably consume the greatest percentage of the total job time. It would be nice if the tensioner 'sprang' out of the bore, that would eliminate the only time consuming part of the job.

***********

No tensioner parts can fall into the engine from the tensioner bore. Not even if it falls in 'just the right way'.

At some point your hands will be working in a limited space while fiddling around trying to get the tensioner spring out from under the tensioner body. Go at this with abandon, no tensioner parts can fall into the engine from the tensioner bore.

***********

Here are the factory original PREVIOUS MODEL parts, and the FIRST EDITION UPGRADE MODEL parts as of Feb '05. The first upgrade model was priced over $200

http://www.motofab.com/images/repair...new_vs_old.jpg



Here are the factory ORIGINAL PARTS, and the CURRENT PARTS as of May '07. About $60 to $70.

http://www.motofab.com/images/repair...oner_parts.jpg



Start by loosening these two intake tube clamps. Do not loosen the tube clamp that is located next to the cylinder head.

http://www.motofab.com/images/repair...not_remove.jpg

http://www.motofab.com/images/repair...ake_clamps.jpg



These steps are straightforward enough.

http://www.motofab.com/images/repair...slide_tube.jpg



Your throttle body o-ring may look like it has stretched. This one looks pretty good. The o-ring absorbs hydrocarbon crankcase vapors and swells. If it has, the intake tube will tear the o-ring when slid back over the throttle body.

This phenomenon is identical to what happens to the o-rings on the fuel tank quick disconnects.

BMW O-ring p/n 13 54 1 341 797 ___ 52mm x 2mm ___ $3.10

http://www.motofab.com/images/repair...take_oring.jpg



Unplug the fuel injector electrical connector.

http://www.motofab.com/images/repair...ector_plug.jpg



Remove the fuel line retainer spring clip.

http://www.motofab.com/images/repair...ector_clip.jpg



Remove the two fuel line screws.

http://www.motofab.com/images/repair...tor_screws.jpg



Pop off the injector fuel line.

http://www.motofab.com/images/repair...r_oring_01.jpg



Look at that, the o-ring stayed with the fuel line end cup.

http://www.motofab.com/images/repair...r_oring_02.jpg



Pull out the fuel injector.

http://www.motofab.com/images/repair...r_oring_03.jpg



Put the o-ring back on the injector.

http://www.motofab.com/images/repair...r_oring_04.jpg

http://www.motofab.com/images/repair...r_oring_05.jpg



Disconnect the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) electrical connector.

http://www.motofab.com/images/repair...r/tps_plug.jpg

http://www.motofab.com/images/repair...disconnect.jpg



Cut the zip-tie for the TPS cable.

http://www.motofab.com/images/repair...ps_zip_tie.jpg



Remove the throttle body ground lead.

http://www.motofab.com/images/repair.../tb_ground.jpg



Remove the two intake manifold flange screws.

http://www.motofab.com/images/repair..._screws_01.jpg

http://www.motofab.com/images/repair..._screws_02.jpg



Here is a look at the end of the intake manifold 'flange'.

http://www.motofab.com/images/repair...b_manifold.jpg



You will need another special tool.

http://www.motofab.com/images/repair...angar_tool.jpg



Make a hangar out of the wire and suspend the throttle body and intake manifold out of the way.

http://www.motofab.com/images/repair.../tb_hangar.jpg

http://www.motofab.com/images/repair...angar_zoom.jpg

http://www.motofab.com/images/repair...old_flange.jpg



Without stopping to stage photos, it takes about 10 minutes to get to this point.

http://www.motofab.com/images/repair...ner_access.jpg



17mm combination wrench works well enough to loosen the tensioner.

http://www.motofab.com/images/repair...ner_loosen.jpg

http://www.motofab.com/images/repair...unthreaded.jpg



Get you a big paperclip and make one of these.

http://www.motofab.com/images/repair..._clip_tool.jpg



Use the small hook to grab the top, or near the top, of the spring

http://www.motofab.com/images/repair..._spring_01.jpg



First pull down on the spring, and then out from under the tensioner body.

http://www.motofab.com/images/repair..._spring_02.jpg



Here is the spring removal sequence. You may get lucky and get it the first time.

http://www.motofab.com/images/repair...spring_seq.jpg



Use the other end of the paper clip tool to retrieve the piston. Make the paperclip 'vee' large enough so that it is a force fit and will grasp the piston from the inside.

http://www.motofab.com/images/repair...eve_piston.jpg



Old parts going to the archive.

http://www.motofab.com/images/repair...er_removed.jpg



Now it is time to install the new tensioner. Start by dropping the piston into the cylinder bore. (There is no picture of this step.)

The large piston can be dropped into the bore . . . plunk. The old piston did not fall into the engine, and neither will the new one. Just drop it in.

The new components fit together like this. It is easier to drop the piston into the cylinder bore that to try to install them while mated.

http://www.motofab.com/images/repair...on_sept_06.jpg



Slam dunk. Remember, the top of the tensioner body must go up and behind the suspension arm before it can be guided into the bore.

http://www.motofab.com/images/repair..._tensioner.jpg



These casting marks are for component alignment.

http://www.motofab.com/images/repair..._up_intake.jpg



Rotate the fuel injector body out of the way, and snap on the retaining clip.

http://www.motofab.com/images/repair...or_clip_01.jpg



The fuel injector retaining clip must slide on smoothly with a nice 'detent click' when fully seated. If the retaining clip does not slide on smoothly, the problem is the injector is not pushed far enough into the fuel cap.

http://www.motofab.com/images/repair...or_clip_02.jpg



Rotate the injector body so that it is in front of the retaining clip.

http://www.motofab.com/images/repair...or_clip_03.jpg



Plug in the electrical connector. When oriented correctly, the electrical connector blocks the injector retaining clip.

http://www.motofab.com/images/repair...or_clip_04.jpg

http://www.motofab.com/images/repair...or_clip_05.jpg



Job complete. A-a-a-h-h - h - h. The first start up was nearly silent.

http://www.motofab.com/images/repair...irst_start.jpg



Thanks for the props everyone. Happy wrenching.

- Jim<BR><BR>

philschl 02-17-2005 08:42 PM

How-To uninstall a throttle body...
 
Nice one, Jim!

I need to take off my right TB for rebushing the butterfly shaft, so thanks for the picturesque step-by-step instruction!

Phil

configurationspace 02-17-2005 08:42 PM

Wow, Poolside. That's beautiful. I might just change my cam chain tensioners so I can use all this wonderful information.

johnjen 02-17-2005 11:27 PM

Jim this is really great. My only concern is that bike looks way to clean. How can such a clean machine need new tensioners? :D

JJ

Andrew 02-18-2005 01:33 AM

Upgrade
 
At some point, I would like to hear about the differences between old and "upgrade" versions of the tensioner. What advantage to change? Is the new part the only part that BMW sells?

EDIT...

Sorry, didn't see the other threads. :doh

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...8&postcount=16

HarveyMushman 02-18-2005 03:37 AM

You da man, Jim. :thumb

HarveyMushman 02-20-2005 09:13 PM

You still da man, Jim, but where's the rest? :D

kbasa 02-20-2005 09:16 PM

This is wonderful. Really.

rideLD 02-20-2005 09:29 PM

Me god, that thing is filthy. Is that old varnished gas in the TB? Whats with all that carbon in the intake? Is that comon with boxers? I have rebuilt top ends on countless japanese bikes and never seen that much crud, even at 100K. :dunno

BTW, thanks for doing this. It will be a great reference for all.:thumb

Arch 02-20-2005 09:30 PM

Yep! Rockin' how-to, Jim! Duly bookmarked. :thumb

eap 02-20-2005 10:02 PM

great work!:thumb

configurationspace 02-20-2005 10:32 PM

Yay! Poolside! Yay!

Rad 02-20-2005 11:56 PM

Somethun tells me this might just end up in that hall with the other smarty stuff :nod

That would have nut'n to do with the fact that I have an 01 GS with a tick'n on the left side :lol3

johnjen 02-21-2005 12:27 AM

we're work'n on fixing up the Hall of Wisdom so we can get reports in there faster...

and this is a choice morsel indeed.

JJ

Bill 310 02-21-2005 01:00 AM

[QUOTE=Poolside]<BR>Last Saturday a friend and I changed the cam chain tensioner on his 2001 GS. [QUOTE]

This is better plan . My cam chain guide and tensioner snapped at 6,00 RPM behind Mt. St. Helens in August. I was passing a car ( never did get that pass finished).

The bike was an 03 GS Adc. 50,000 miles on it , BMW did a total engine swap - it was knarly inside.

That took from early August till mdi December.

In that time I rode a new LT to Mexico and back and got knocked down at Reg Pridmore totaling the LT and now have a Wing.

I guess my cam chain guide/ tensioner problem was not the one in a million BMW thought it was.

P5


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