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-   -   F800GS oil change (http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=707584)

thelouv 07-16-2011 08:56 PM

F800GS oil change
 
So I can't seem to get the search box to work on here. Keeps giving me some sort of Error 505 message. I know there are great posts on "how to" things here. Can anyone direct me to an oil change for the F800GS? Time for me to start doing it myself and I just want to make sure there aren't any little things I could miss (like on my previous Aprilia Capo and its 2 drain bolts).

CheckerdD 07-17-2011 06:04 AM

I did not take pics last time I did it.

Looking forward on the left side, do you see that Aluminum colored bolt? Tap it LIGHTLY with a hammer to help it break loose. Then you stick your 10mm hex head into the hole and twist. I needed a little cheater bar since the dealer did the 600 mile, and it was really tight. Note the oil is going to come out nearly horizontally. So you need to have the pan below and to the side in such a way the oil lands in it. Next remove any crash plate you might have that prevents you from accessing the filter. Insert the tool you have to remove oil filters over the head and twist off. Make sure the rubber O' ring comes out with the filter. a portion of the oil in the filter is going to drain as you remove it. Then you put a bit of old oil on the new o'ring from your finger so it seals easily and twist on the new filter. Do not over torque it. I hold my socket close to the center (meaning my hand next to the socket) and twist firmly, but no harder.

Now put a new washer on the drain plug and insert. Dont over torque it. It made of soft metal and it gets heated by the motor. Maybe some nice person will post the torque setting. Its not a lot.

Now pour in your 3 quart containers of MOTORCYCLE grade 10w-40 oil. Run the bike looking for leaks, and top up as necessary. Dispose of the old oil in an environmentally friendly way. Dave

thelouv 07-17-2011 07:56 AM

Sounds pretty straight forward. Thanks for the hint about how the oil projects out. The most difficult part may be getting a new crush washer ahead of time. Start adding to the list of chores for next weekend.
Thanks again!

mitchapalooza 07-17-2011 08:58 AM

The drain plug torque spec (per service dvd) is 40nm or 29.477ft/lb.

The filter (who torque checks this anyway..:huh) is 14nm or 10.317ft/lb.

The drain plug crush washer is part number "11 41 7652949"

What other specs can I spew out from the service dvd for you?

Hope this helps.

-mitch

thelouv 07-18-2011 07:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mitchapalooza (Post 16414731)
The drain plug torque spec (per service dvd) is 40nm or 29.477ft/lb.

The filter (who torque checks this anyway..:huh) is 14nm or 10.317ft/lb.

The drain plug crush washer is part number "11 41 7652949"

What other specs can I spew out from the service dvd for you?

Hope this helps.

-mitch

It does help. Any idea if I can get a proper size crush washer from a normal auto parts house? The closest BMW dealership is over an hour drive away. Although perhaps I can convince them to drop one in an envelope & mail it to me. Then they know what I am doing. But alot of us do our own maintenance. Especially given the sparsity of the dealer network. I might chat with a friend of mine that is the German service mgr at the local MB,BMW auto dealership here. For kicks, I'll give him that part #.
Thanks again.

jessehere 07-18-2011 09:01 AM

I just anneal the old copper crush washer and reuse if I dont have one handy.I heat it up till its red hot on the stove and reuse.

thelouv 07-18-2011 09:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jessehere (Post 16421742)
I just anneal the old copper crush washer and reuse if I dont have one handy.I heat it up till its red hot on the stove and reuse.

someone else told me you can just flip it over and get 2 uses from 1 washer. then get a new one for the next time.

L8APX 07-18-2011 08:16 PM

In a pinch, I have used the old copper washer up to 3 times without a leak. I always torque the drain bolt to spec (about 30 lb-ft).

'Flagger 07-19-2011 03:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CheckerdD (Post 16413853)
Then you stick your 10mm hex head into the hole and twist.

10mm hole? Gotta be a feature added to newer models. My '09 doesn't have this.

B-B 07-19-2011 04:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 'Flagger (Post 16428308)
10mm hole? Gotta be a feature added to newer models. My '09 doesn't have this.

Yeah mine is like 24mm bolt, no hex cap type.

Tor 07-19-2011 09:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by L8APX (Post 16426948)
In a pinch, I have used the old copper washer up to 3 times without a leak. I always torque the drain bolt to spec (about 30 lb-ft).

I have used the washer on my ST ever since it was new. It now has 70000 miles on it. 70000/4000=17 point 5. Never a leak. Doing the same on my F8GS.

jkosc1 08-31-2011 07:45 PM

the 10 mm "hole" appeared on the 2010 model

YetiGS 09-01-2011 12:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jkosc1 (Post 16758506)
the 10 mm "hole" appeared on the 2010 model

BMW recommends replacing the older style with the new as the bolt-head strips pretty easily.

Stackator 09-02-2011 11:51 PM

Read your bike manual in particular the part about getting the bike up to temperature (when the fan kicks in) prior to checking your oil volume. It's a very straight forward oil and filter change to do.

OZZY-GS 09-06-2011 04:12 AM

wow I can't believe it but I managed to round off the head of my drain plug:huh(by the way I have a 2010 model and it sill has a 24mm Aluminium plug?)
Anyone have any good advice as to how I can get the bastard out?:eek1
Any help would be appreciated!


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