ADVrider

ADVrider (http://www.advrider.com/forums/index.php)
-   GS Boxers (http://www.advrider.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=3)
-   -   1200GS Fuel Pump Flange Crack (http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=711467)

davegaz 07-29-2011 07:09 PM

1200GS Fuel Pump Flange Crack
 
1 Attachment(s)
2008 R1200GS, 23000 miles. Phoenix AZ

I smelled a slight whiff of gas for a while, always as I removed the cover before riding home from work. Since I put the cover on in the morning after I get to work I figured it was just residual fuel vapors wafting out of the muffler or airbox and being trapped under the cover. Never smelled it any other time until today.

Today on the ride home there was a faint smell of gas. Like you, whenever I smell something unusual on he road I look around and always find a decrepit old vehicle to assign blame, then happily continue on my way. Not this time. No clunkers in sight.

After dinner I pulled the side tank cover and peered in with a flashlight and discovered that the threaded flange securing one of the fuel lines to the top of the pump is cracked. Excuse the poor lighting in the photo, but one can see several cracks around the circumference of the flange ring. roughly 3:00, 6:00 and 9:00 o'clock. There are others visible from the opposite direction so it seems like there is one every 60 degrees or so.

Is this a common problem? I searched Gspot and found a couple of similar complaints.

MaxBMW shows the pump flange to be a $308 piece of plastic.

Best thing is my warranty expired about 3 weeks ago.:rofl I'm going to be on my best behavior during my visit to the dealer tomorrow in hopes that I'll be shown some mercy.

Worst case I'll buy the flange. Anyone else had to replace it and can share some tips?

Thanks,

Dave

flemsmith 07-29-2011 08:02 PM

Good luck w/ warranty.....
 
I had a similar issue on my 2005, but it came after I replaced the plastic quick disconnect with brass; probably a bit too ham-dfiated on my part. I ended up fixing it with the loctite epoxy that's discussed as being fuel resistant in the loctite thread in the garage section. Had to order it, about $18 or so. Been fine for a few years now.

If you decide to take it apart to replace it, there's a tool for the threaded cover that cost about a $100 or so.

Good luck either way.

Roy

davegaz 07-30-2011 08:10 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Thanks. Is this the stuff you used?

How did you apply it?

Did you remove the fitting and coat the threads as described here?

"If the petcock threads into plastic threads in the tank which have stripped out, use a fuel resistant epoxy like the Fixmaster Fast Cure Mixing Cups (they come in a Pringles-type can, pn. 21425). So the male threads don't bond permenantly, spray on a thin coating of non-stick egg frying Pam type product to serve as the release agent, then with a small thin bristle disposable paint brush, work the Pam into the thread roots and everything else you don't want the epoxy to stick to. Then mix up one of the cups, dab some resin into the hole, work it around with a pipe cleaner, apply the rest to the male threads, and screw it in. Let it sit for about 3 to 4 minutes and give it a little 1/8" twist to break any sort of bond the Pam coating allowed to happen, do it again about 6 minutes into the process, then let it sit for a few hours, and you should be good to go."

JimVonBaden 08-01-2011 10:21 AM

Only three weeks out of warranty? They should cover it, though you may be screwed because of the non-factory brass flange. Depends on the dealer.

It IS a relatively common issue. Repair isn't hard, though the tool will definitely help. Some have managed without it, but it is much harder. If you can find an appropriately sized piece of pipe you can probably make a tool for it.

Jim :brow

davegaz 08-01-2011 10:38 AM

This is completely stock. No brass quick connect. Thank my crappy photo for the confusion.

Dealer is going to contact BMW tomorrow. Got my fingers-crossed they'll comp it. At least the parts.

The tech mentioned that the flange is no longer available - ya gotta buy the whole pump assy:clap.

Looking at the 2010 GS fiche I see it uses the same pump P/N as the 08, and the flange is NOT listed as a separate part. He's probably right.

Thanks Jim

JimVonBaden 08-01-2011 10:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davegaz (Post 16527918)
This is completely stock. No brass quick connect. Thank my crappy photo for the confusion.

Dealer is going to contact BMW tomorrow. Got my fingers-crossed they'll comp it. At least the parts.

The tech mentioned that the flange is no longer available - ya gotta buy the whole pump assy:clap.

Looking at the 2010 GS fiche I see it uses the same pump P/N as the 08, and the flange is NOT listed as a separate part. He's probably right.

Thanks Jim

Sorry, I was confusing your post and the other one. If you have a good relationship with your dealer you should be OK.

Jim :brow

JStancampiano 08-01-2011 02:27 PM

Mine broke just like that, BMW said "never seen this before" Wouldn't cover it under warranty On mine, the lower quick connect fitting cracked spraying gas all over me and the bike (it was very exciting). These are tapered npt pipe threads and if overtightened will crack the fitting and the plate. Could be yours, like mine, is the lower female quick connect cracked. The plate had some hairline cracks, but wasn't leaking. I got a brass one from Beemer Boneyard, coated it with yamabond case sealer, and put it back together. It's been holding for the last 10k miles.

Check out post 21 and 23:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...=301118&page=2

Joe

JimVonBaden 08-01-2011 03:44 PM

When changing my QD's for my R1200ST (same as the Camhead GS QDs), I found some very minor cracking. This bike has 66K miles on it, and one hard hit from behind. The QD started leaking, and it was the right time for filming the next Repair DVD, so I took photos and video.

Here are a couple:

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...I/QDDone03.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...I/QDDone02.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...ack-seal-2.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...Crack-seal.jpg

The arrows show the location of the crack.

No leaks since the change 600 miles ago!:deal

Jim :brow

malloy 08-01-2011 04:55 PM

Tool?
 
JVB - With your creative "work around" aptitude :norton I'm sure you have an alternative tool for taking the metal ring off. What does it look like?:ear

JimVonBaden 08-01-2011 06:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by malloy (Post 16530515)
JVB - With your creative "work around" aptitude :norton I'm sure you have an alternative tool for taking the metal ring off. What does it look like?:ear


With the right sized PVC pipe something like this:

http://www.iane.co.uk/store/images/u...nut%20tool.jpg

Jim :brow

SkiFly01 08-01-2011 07:16 PM

If you have had any warranty work done on the fuel system you should be covered, such as a fuel strip replacement, because the warrantly for that work/part(s) resets on the last service date.

davegaz 08-01-2011 08:17 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Joe, It could be the fitting like yours I can't tell. When I switch on the ignition I can immediately see fuel seep (not spray) out from the middle of the three flange cracks I'm pointing to below. That one looks like it extends a lot further into the plate than the one in Jim's photo.

I have disconnected the QD a few times when removing the tank but I have never put a wrench on the fitting.

If I get no joy from BMW I'll attempt a similar repair. Is Yamabond the best stuff to use?


Thanks everyone.

davegaz 08-01-2011 08:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SkiFly01 (Post 16531644)
If you have had any warranty work done on the fuel system you should be covered, such as a fuel strip replacement, because the warrantly for that work/part(s) resets on the last service date.

Fuel strip replaced last November. So the warranty on the entire pump is extended? I didn't know that.

JStancampiano 08-02-2011 04:22 AM

Looks like yours may be leaking fron the flange itself. Mine leaked from the cracked fitting, but my flange has small radial cracks similar to yours. The Yamabond was used to seal the threads on the new brass fitting. This is a totally wrong place to use a tapered pipe thread because of the weak plastic flange. It looks like ours were overtightened from the factory, causing the cracks. I hate to spend the $300 on a new flange, but even though it's holding now, I don't trust it.(on the 07 GSAdv plate is listed separately from fuel pump). This is one of those parts that should never break within reasonable life of cycle. Try for warranty repair before you fix anything.

Joe



Quote:

Originally Posted by davegaz (Post 16532188)
Joe, It could be the fitting like yours I can't tell. When I switch on the ignition I can immediately see fuel seep (not spray) out from the middle of the three flange cracks I'm pointing to below. That one looks like it extends a lot further into the plate than the one in Jim's photo.

I have disconnected the QD a few times when removing the tank but I have never put a wrench on the fitting.

If I get no joy from BMW I'll attempt a similar repair. Is Yamabond the best stuff to use?


Thanks everyone.


davegaz 08-02-2011 06:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JStancampiano (Post 16533587)
Looks like yours may be leaking fron the flange itself. Mine leaked from the cracked fitting, but my flange has small radial cracks similar to yours. The Yamabond was used to seal the threads on the new brass fitting. This is a totally wrong place to use a tapered pipe thread because of the weak plastic flange. It looks like ours were overtightened from the factory, causing the cracks. I hate to spend the $300 on a new flange, but even though it's holding now, I don't trust it.(on the 07 GSAdv plate is listed separately from fuel pump). This is one of those parts that should never break within reasonable life of cycle. Try for warranty repair before you fix anything.

Joe

Agreed. My experience with NPT connections is to never use a female thread in a plastic part. The hoop stress is fairly high and one can easily crack the flange by over-tightening it. I think the case here may be that, over time, the flange material degrades from contact with oxygenated fuel until it cracks under the original assembly stress. What's more is that the pump flange sits almost directly downstream of the oil cooler too. Summertime riding in Phoenix certainly can't help the situation.

Dave


Times are GMT -7.   It's 09:29 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014