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advhound 10-29-2012 11:35 AM

'09 KLR Engine Problems
Hello all,

I am in need of some direction to troubleshoot my ‘09 KLR. I was riding down the highway going about 75 MPH and I lost all engine power immediately. The starter motor still turns the engine. I had battery power to headlight, tail lights, dash lights etc. Haven’t touched the bike mod-wise except for adding heated grips. Bike has about 11,000 miles.

Here is what I have done to date to trouble shoot:
Pulled the spark plug and confirmed I do have spark. Replaced spark plug.
Visually inspected the fuel lines and all lines are intact and connected.
Checked the pressure from the engine and when I hold my hand on the exhaust, I can feel a little pressure, but it doesn’t “pop” my hand off. Similarly, when I put my hand over the spark plug hole, I can feel pressure on my finger, but it doesn’t “pop” my finger off. From what I have read, I should have around 90 psi. Does this seem out of line?

What should I look at next to trouble shoot?

bomber60015 10-29-2012 11:45 AM

are you getting gas to the cylinder?<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:p></o:p>

to the carb?<o:p></o:p>

seems you have two of the three requirements for combustion . . . . air and spark . . . .fuel completes the triumvirate<o:p></o:p>

bajadog 10-29-2012 12:36 PM

Just for a baseline, have you had the valve clearances during the 11K miles.

itsatdm 10-29-2012 01:08 PM

You probably won't feel much pressure at cranking speeds, as the bike raises an exhaust valve a bit to aid starting. Same reason it is difficult to get accurate compression readings unless you disable the automatic compression release.

I had a similar experience when I burnt some valves on the road. I would check valve clearances and if you find some with none, that could be an indicator.

Probably not the case, but if you find some valves with excessive clearance, that is a sign of bent valves.

SkiBumBrian 10-29-2012 05:11 PM

Open the carb bowl drain and see if fuel comes out, if not look at your petcock for proper flow. Could be the diaphragm, kinked vacuum hose, etc.

Beezer 10-29-2012 05:21 PM

do you get fuel out of the petcock when you crank? if yes, I would pull the air cleaner off & shoot some starting fluid in to carb (open the throttle). If it pops & runs briefly it's the carb.

If that makes no difference it would be time to check the valve timing.

Did you change the "doo"? If so, how long ago & was it the whole works, etc.

advhound 10-30-2012 08:18 AM

@bomber60015 and @SkiBumBrian - I will check getting gas to the cylinder and I will also open the carb bowl drain to confirm fuel comes out.

@bajadog - No, I haven't taken valve clearance baseline measurements. Is there a resource of what they should be set at?

@itsatdm - That is interesting that the bike raises an exhaust valve a bit to aid starting. Good info. Will check valve clearances, hopefully valves are not the issue! One question - please see; what is this? It seems I need to remove this to remove the valve cover plate? I think it is a coolant line, do I need to drain the coolant so I don't spew cooolant?

@beezer - I will confirm petcock fuel flow. You are saying if it pops and runs, the air flow through the carb is the problem? Clear air path? I have never changes the doohickey. I understood that 2nd gen KLR's aren't succeptible to this problem and the doohickey fix isn't a common fix needed?

Thanks for the help guys, really wanting to get her running again!

Okie Rider 10-30-2012 03:13 PM

Kickstand cutout switch?

advhound 10-30-2012 03:29 PM


Originally Posted by Okie Rider (Post 19934548)
Kickstand cutout switch?

Wouldn't the starter fail to turn the engine if the kickstand kill switch was failing? The starter will turn the engine with the clutch pulled in.

willijas 10-30-2012 04:35 PM

'09 KLR Engine Problems
what you have highlighted is the Air Injection System (AKA AIS) a lot of people remove this. No you don't have to drain the coolant to remove it and yes you have to remove it to get to the valves. Something you might check is the petcock. it is vacuum operated and it is not unheard of to have the diaphragm that operates the petcock to wear out and leak which equals no fuel. If that is the case you have 3 options 1. fix the petcock with a rebuild kit, 2. put in a yamaha raptor petcock (non vacuum), 3. buy or build a kit to remove the diaphragm from the OE petcock.


Duas Rodas 10-30-2012 04:57 PM

Someone sugested spraying started fluid into the what happened?:deal

I would do this before tearing into it any further. You do want to eliminate the simple stuff first...spark-yes, gas-we don't!!! Do the above and if it runs for a sec, you a have fuel delivery issue...
Always eleminate the simple stuff first!

Outwardbound 10-30-2012 05:14 PM

Electrical problem; I'd betcha a beer.

whisperquiet 10-30-2012 07:42 PM

+1 Electrical on 2008 and some 2009 KLRs. Read this: I would be looking up around the right radiator overflow tank support bracket or near the fuses on the left side under the gas tank...........common areas for rub through/shorts points. Check the fuses to see if one is blown.

You can easily check gas flow to the the drain screw on the right side of the carb with a 3mm allen, crank the bike's starter, and see if it continues to flow gasoline out the carb.

Beezer 10-30-2012 10:28 PM

the Gen II "doo" lever is stronger but the spring is too long & gets loose. if the bike has more than a few thousand miles on it the spring will have no tension. many are so loose they literally fall off. they have been known to go through the timing chain and make timing jump. (BTW, the lever is a poor fit to the shaft which lets the whole works stay in motion while the bike runs). actually the whole design is piss poor & then built with crappy parts.

anyway, what I was getting at is that if you have spark & shoot some fuel into the carb & it runs, then the fuel system is at fault.

if you have a spark & shoot fuel in and it still doesn't run.... either:

(1) there isn't enough compression due to tight valves, jumped valve timing (with possibly bent valves), broken rings, blown head gasket or most likely a broken compression release. (a head gasket that bad prolly leaks coolant too)

(2) the spark is not at the right time. this sometimes happens when replacing the doo. in the process the rotor has to come off... when it goes back on it has to engage a woodruff key on the crank, if that gets knocked out during assembly the rotor will eventually slip on the shaft. it might still spark, but the timing is way off

Beezer 10-30-2012 10:30 PM

also, if the safety switches are in the kill mode for the Ignition system, the starter won't turn

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