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xjon 11-28-2012 09:49 PM

New drive
Just realized after a ride to the store a quarter sized oil spill. Sure enough it's from the final drive. Did the wheel shake test and it seems solid. Took wheel off and checked where its leaking from and both sides were dry. The boot however was wet. Looked up the swing arm and the shaft was dry, so it's not the tranny seal.

So I'm thinking its just the front seal of the final drive. Never taken a final drive apart before so I'm not sure what to expect so any suggestions, tips, would be appreciated.

Asked the dealer over the phone and they said $375 and parts...Thinking of tackling the job myself so the kids can have a merrier Christmas.

06 with 50k miles

aGremlin 11-28-2012 11:44 PM

Usually it's just the final drive seal, should be a simple quick job. I've had mine replaced a few times (the latest a couple of weekends ago failed immediately and I had to return to the shop for another).

Got a pic?

jdub 11-29-2012 03:18 AM


Originally Posted by xjon (Post 20139432)
Asked the dealer over the phone and they said $375 and parts...

Hopefully that labor cost includes them removing and replacing the FD from your bike, should be much less if you carry just the FD in to them.

Sorry I can't be of any help as I've never had to replace that input seal, but unless lots of special tools are required I'd think it should be a fairly easy do-it-yourself job. Good luck.

Disco Dean 11-29-2012 04:33 AM

That price seems fair to me. And, normally the shop will require they take the whole bike in for warranty - don't ask me why but you can always ask.

IF it is the side seal (which you hint it is not) it is very easy to do and can be done without removing anything but the plastic cover. Jim VB has a tutorial on it I think.

IF it is the pinion seal from inside the boot you will need specialized tools to do it - a machined socket to remove the collar on the pinion, air tools, heat and proper pullers - most likely going to have to fabricate some work-holding tools.

I have done it twice now - it gets easier but is not a simple job at all and you will spend more time machining the proper tools (it took me two days to machine the socket) and or buying them from BMW than the 375 is worth in my opinion.

It is a big job - really and if you are going to do that then you might as well replace the small pinion bearing or all of them at the same time as that bearing is the one that fails - then you are doing the shims and, and, and.... back lash and contact pattern/patch...

I have an 06, 120GS with 100,000 on it.


WoodButcher 11-29-2012 07:07 AM

Sure it isn't the shock leaking and running back to the rear boot?

I'd check that just to make sure.

roadtrip22 11-29-2012 08:49 AM

I just had that replaced on my old 06 R1200GS. I didn't have the tools to do it nor did the dealer. Plus the dealer didn't even want to touch it. Found a Independant BMW bike shop and had them replace it for around $250 including parts. but I took the FD off myself and brought it to him.
I replaced numbers 2,3,5 and 6 in the diagram. When I looked at the old parts. looked like the crush washer got a little dirt on it and killed it making it leak. and get past the seal where the dirt came in..

But if you don't know what your doing. I'm told i wouldn't mess with it and let someone else who does know deal with it..

xjon 11-29-2012 08:57 AM

Check out this video on YouTube:<br/><br/>

Shock is dry.

def 11-29-2012 09:10 AM

If he will do it, send it to Anton for a thorough repair. I know of nobody who is as detail oriented.

xjon 11-29-2012 10:26 AM

And who is this Anton you speak of, and how do I get a hold of him?

def 11-29-2012 10:32 AM

Anton frequents this site from time to time. He is considered by many herein as a BMW driveline expert.

Disco Dean 11-29-2012 01:36 PM

+1 Def... Anton helped me the first time around - very good and cost effective.


WoodButcher 11-29-2012 03:34 PM


Originally Posted by xjon (Post 20141798)
Shock is dry.

Which is good news. Shock can be more than the FD seal fix.

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