A few predicaments with a R60/5.
Hi folks. I have a 71 R60/5 with some issues, I am hoping you guys can help!
The bike in question, with it's usual puddle of trans fluid and some engine oil underneath it.
It's current state.
First off is the engine. It seems to have a lot of crankcase pressure. It leaks everywhere. I've also noticed that the oil pressure dummy light instantly goes off when the kick starter is depressed trying to kick start the bike. (Even when the engine doesn't fire.) Is this normal? Or do I have high oil pressure?
As of right now I have the clutch out for a rear main seal and new oil pump o-ring (again). Is there anyway to check the oil pump to see what kind of pressure it's putting out?Is there anyway to adjust it?
Rear main seal area and oil pump after some major cleanup.
I'm also doing the conversion to the new style reed valve breather and a new hose to try and control the oil. I've also heard that I should only be filling the oil up to halfway in between the min and max on the dipstick.
Pulled the old breather out.
The engine is in top condition. New rings, ball hone, valves and guides as of six thousand miles ago. No smoke and 130 PSI in both cylinders.
Second up is the Transmission. A couple years back the kicker pin fell into the transmission. I sent it to a local airhead guy who took the back cover off and fixed the kicker. Kickstarter and trans work great now. But the back cover now leaks oil.
How hard is it to just take the cover off and regasket?? Do I need a special tool to pull the driveshaft flange on the back?
Lastly, is the rear drive. It seems that it leaks out of the weep hole. Does that mean that the inside seal is leaking? I'm assuming that is a hell of a job to replace? The brake area seems to be dry.
I think it weeps out of the top weep hole. Hard to tell though.
Any suggestions would be great. Thanks guys!
The trans shims should be checked if you take the rear cover off. You need a special puller to get the out put flange off.
That tool is about $80 I think and the tools to do the shims are more. Any chance it can go to the guy that fixed it two years ago? Are you sure it's the gasket?
The oil pressure is regulated by a valve on the front main bearing holder. This is under the timing cover and can be seen here;
The horizontal rod shaped piece above the timing chain controls the oil pressure. You can't read the oil pressure till the engine is running and since you don't currently have this part apart why don't you wait till some of this other stuff is done till you take it apart. Besides you are already doing the engine breather and maybe that will fix it?
No idea about final drive.
you might want to compare notes with one of your neighbors in your area -
I've had several bad excperinces with the guy I took the trans to. Very flaky and just not a good business man. Wish that wasn't the case but it just is. I'm sure it's the gasket.
Since the oil pressure is done from the front I'm thinking I'll put it back together and then try and take a reading with a gauge.
Whelp I ordered a new rear seal, O-ring and clutch assembly today from BMW. $$$ Gonna order some more pieces and tools tomorrow.
I would personally stake a lot on the new breather... you may find that that takes care of your "oil pressure" problem....
The other thing to check is that the oil filter is in its place correctly. There is an oil pressure relief valve (ball/spring check valve) at the back of the oil filter chamber. Anton has something to say about that on his website. ....see bottom of page for oil pressure relief system.
Good luck, nice bike!
PS i would love to hear what those pipes sound like!
Thanks for the link! That is helpful.
The pipes are quite loud but I get a lot of compliments on them.
So how far should I insert the new rear seal?
This is not going to be as easy as you thought. The answer is hopefully in another thread, that part is not so hard, but it's pretty long. Start with post #91 on page #7 and after you read this ask again, if you must. :freaky
Read it all the way to the end of the thread.
Thanks. I think I will install it a few mm proud and call it a day.
Durn that's purty! :eek1 Even with a few leaks. I'm gonna have me an R60 some day....minus the actual "top box".
How do them there "Brit" look'in pipes sound with a "Kraut" speaking through them?
Regardless of how they sound, I like the looks of them.
Well I've made some progress.
Found some sweet Wixom bags for it.
Got the clutch in and took both cylinders apart and fixed leaks. Also replaced the oil pan gasket and got my new breather in. Started it up with no trans on the back and it doesn't seem to leak anywhere yet!!!
Took the trans apart. The surface had a pretty good gouge in it where it was leaking,
Bought me a set of the Epco /5 mufflers. They look pretty nice. Especially considering the price. I'm keeping the old pipes, I'm sure I will find a project that call for them someday.
Decided to do a quick spray job on the frame.
Did some painting today. Hopefully will be together next weekend! I might have some DeLorto carb questions for you guys soon.
Thanks for watching.
On it's way back together. Installed new intake tubes from a R75. They fit my carbs much better than the R60 ones that I had to hack up.
All together finally!
Rode a couple hundred miles with my dad last weekend. No leaks yet.
Put the bags on but I found out I have brackets for a LWB model.
So my next question is can I make these brackets work? It looks like all I have to do is modify the bottom leg a little bit by cutting it a little shorter and drilling a new hole. I'm not sure if the bags are in the correct location though.
My mounts: (LWB mounts on a SWB bike)
LWB mounts on a LWB bike:
SWB mounts on a SWB bike:
To me it looks like the actual bag mount in the same spot on both wheelbases. The shocks on the LWB are moved back for the longer swingarm but the front bagmount bolt looks to be in the same spot on the front of the subframe. Am I thinking right???
Should be easy to modify this to work.
Tell me what you think! Thanks.
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