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pip_muenster 04-01-2013 04:04 AM

Camels, crashes, injuries and breakdowns in Morocco & Spain
There will be camels. There will be crashes.
There will be injuries.
And there will be breakdowns.

Actually, the trip started 4 months ago and I still have to get home ….

The plan was simple: Loose some weight, get the bikes to southern Spain and have some fun in Morocco. Maddin and I met for the first time on a trip to Iceland 2 years ago (Here’s the story.). Since them we’ve done another short trip into France and decided to join up again in late 2012 to conquer Morocco.

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jmcg 04-01-2013 04:30 AM

Looking forward to this.

Enjoyed your Iceland RR.



bhuwan 04-01-2013 04:31 AM

Wow ! Can definately smell something yummy coming up - on diet from now.:clap:clap

pip_muenster 04-01-2013 04:48 AM

Getting there ...
Hana of offered us a great deal on transporting our bikes to her shop in Malaga, so all we had to do was jump on a plane. I had a few hours in Frankfurt and went to the Lufthansa lounge for breakfast. While I was sipping on my coffee, Lufthansa sent me 3 text messages on gate changes, it seemed they couldn’t make up their minds. I hate that airport. Taxiways are so long it sometimes seems as if taxiing takes longer than the actual flight itself.
With all that confusion it also took a while before Maddin found me.

Once in Malaga Hana and Patrick picked us up from the airport and gave us some tips on Morocco. Their website states: ‘[…] we don' t spoil any fun, and we are nice to look at’. I’d say they’re not lying, but I will not back that up with photos: Book a trip with them and find out yourself!
Here's Maddin loading the bikes

In comparison to Iceland I have lost about 200lbs of weight: most of it on the bike and luggage, little (if any) on myself. :cry

The first kilometers on wet asphalt were exciting as we both had to adjust to the offroad tires. We found traction after reducing the pressure significantly and made it in time for the ferry from Algecira the next morning. Surprisingly we met Hana again at the port, as she was leading a tour into Morocco.
At the ferry terminal

I don't remember much about the border process, but there was some queueing up on the ferry and then in Tangier. With some hints from Hana it was easy.

pip_muenster 04-01-2013 04:52 AM


Originally Posted by bhuwan (Post 21081086)
Wow ! Can definately smell something yummy coming up - on diet from now.:clap:clap

I don't wanna spoil anything, but don't expect too much. If you're looking for blood, I can't offer much more than maybe a paper cut.

GB 04-01-2013 05:38 AM



pip_muenster 04-01-2013 06:49 AM

Right after we passed customs, we were waved to stop again. I wasn’t sure if this was just another step of the entrance procedure, so I obeyed. There was an ATM and a guy offering money exchange, but I had no intentions to do business with them. When we got back on the bikes, another dude stepped forward, demanding a parking fee!
This was a public road and we had only stopped because they had made us. I literally laughed at him, while twisting the throttle, making him jump out of my way. I understand that they depend on tourists to bring money to their country, but they have to give something in exchange and not just bullying everybody.

We found a supermarket and bought water and food. Then it was time to hit the road N2 towards Tetouan. This had all taken quite a while so we arrived just in time to start looking for an accommodation.

I lead into town and stopped to wait for Maddin. He was hesitant to follow, explaining that I had been riding a oneway road against the flow. Well, that happens.
I had only been stationary for 10 seconds before the next guy approached us. He wanted us to leave the bikes in his secure garage, so he could walk us to a nice hotel in the medina (old inner part of the city).
Now I absolutely hate these guys and I also had little intention to carry my luggage an unknown distance through town. Instead we found a nice hotel just outside the medina where we could park the bikes right in front and the night guard would have an eye on them for little money.

Later in the evening we walked into the medina to have dinner. Again, we were soon hassled by some guy and Maddin agreed to follow him. I pretended not to understand ANY languages (he spoke English, French and maybe even a little German), so the guy ended up constantly talking to Maddin, while rushing through the Medina to his restaurant. There was no time to stop and look, so though although it seemed we had run all across the medina we hadn’t seen anything of it. I know why I don’t like them.
He lead us to the same hotel, guy #1 had wanted us to go to, and the restaurant was completely empty. While waiting for the food, we joked that they first had to go and buy it somewhere else, when another dude with plastic bags came in …

To be fair, the food was good.

View from the hotel

pip_muenster 04-01-2013 07:18 AM

The next day saw us riding east along the Mediterranean coast. The road was twisty, the sun was shining and there was little traffic. This looked much less like a tourist trap and I finally had the feeling that the Morocco trip was becoming a vacation.
Around lunch time we agreed to stop at the next booth stimulating our noses. That turned out to be a small hut between the road and the beach, offering tasty grilled fish.

We continued along the coast and had some more excitement on wet roads through the outskirts of the Rif moutains. Even in 3rd gear at half throttle, my rear tire was constantly sliding all over the place ...

Around dusk we started looking for a hotel. In the first town we were told that they had a hotel, but that we wouldn't want to stay there. We had a look, agreed and continued. It got dark. In the next town, Driouch, we were again told that though there was a hotel, we should still continue to Nador. This time, we decided to stay.

The hotel was small and simple, but clean - and that was everything we were asking for. I woke up early and went downstairs to search for coffee. The night guard had brought out the carpet from the entrance to cover our bikes and hide them from praying eyes ... I tipped him well.
Sleeping bikes ...
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pip_muenster 04-01-2013 11:30 AM

Our goal for today was to reach the real stuff and get some dirt under our tires. We headed south, avoiding the main road wherever possible. The day started sunny with the morning mist beautifully filling the valleys, but than it got foggy and cold.

Anyway, even that ended somewhere and after we climbed up some hairpins we reached a wide plain where we also found the first dirt roads.
(photo: maddin)

Unfortunately, it didn't take long before we hit asphalt again. The road turned west, so we were heading towards the snow covered Atlas mountains on the horizon.

At one point, I asked Maddin to wait and take a picture of me. I rode up to the edge and looked down. What I saw was a crack in the ground to my left side, so I was standing between the cliff and the crack - not good. I quickly changed position to get on the 'save' side of the crack ...
(photo: maddin)

By the end of the day we reached Missour and checked into a guesthouse. The entrance was covered in stickers from other groups and expeditions. Later in the evening, maddin asked a policeman for a good restaurant. He simply left the gate he was guarding and lead us to a place which looked like a butcher, with half a lamb in the window. Inside there were tables, and we had some good pork chops for dinner.

Johnnydarock 04-01-2013 01:22 PM

Going to Morocco in May with Hana from and 7 of my riding buddies. Looking forward to seeing the rest of your photos. Are you sure you ate "pork chops" in Morocco?

pip_muenster 04-01-2013 02:33 PM


Originally Posted by Johnnydarock (Post 21084639)
Are you sure you ate "pork chops" in Morocco?

Probably not. :lol3

Enjoy your trip!

pip_muenster 04-04-2013 09:09 AM

Spoiler alert ...
After 2000km in the last 2 days I finally made it home. Now I just have to figure out where my bike is.

Anyway ...

perico 04-04-2013 09:21 AM
: Norton[/QUOTE]

pip_muenster 04-08-2013 04:26 PM

Anyway ...

Here in Missour we had reached the first route described in our main guide book 'Morocco Overland' by Chris Scott. It should connect us to the fun part in the south of the Atlas. In late November all of northern and western Morocco had the same cold rainy weather as Europe, and the Atlas mountains were already snow covered. But with the Atlas blocking off the cold Atlantic weather, we were expecting sun in the south.
So we selected route ME1 on the GPS and hit the road. Although the road was nice with little to none traffic, it was a bit disappointing that it was all paved. There were a few dry riverbeds to cross - and since strong rainfalls occasionally take away some bridges this can always become fun - but right now all bridges were in perfect condition.

Around lunch time we took a small track leading up a hill overlooking a small village and got out some bread and cheese. Some boys were herding their sheep. They had no dogs, so they stayed on the top of the hill and just threw stones down at any sheep running off. They never missed.
This reminded me on the dogs I had met in Turkey years ago: If you met a dog somewhere in the fields, chances were high that it was unfriendly, but always frightened by stones. Every man kept a walking cane to defend against the dogs, but the first defense were stones. Even if you were standing in the middle of an asphalt parking lot, you could pretend to pick up a stone and the dogs would back off most of the time.
We also played a bit with the cameras.

In Beni Tajjite we stopped at a cafe for the Moroccan tea which we had meanwhile become addicted to. Thé à la Menthe as it is called is a green tea usually served with fresh mint leaves and sugar. The small cafe didn't had any mint and offered vermouth leaves instead. It looked like something picked right from the side of the road. Let's just say, that it tasted 'interesting'.
We turned onto route ME7 towards Tazouguerte and finally found the gravel roads we came for.
(photo: maddin)
(photo: maddin)

Halfway to Tazouguerte the road became a bit more technical when crossing a ridge with some larger loose rocks. When a rock rolled away under my front wheel, I quickly learned that putting a foot on the ground is a bad strategy when your bike seat is 37" tall. I didn't fall, but Maddin had quite a laugh about my artistic talents.
(photo: maddin)

About the time we reached the valley leading towards Merzouga the shadows were getting longer and longer. Maddin had a target for the night in his mind and pushed forward.

By the time we reached Erfoud, it was pitch black. We stopped to discuss options and agreed on a hotel marked on Maddin's GPS. When we moved on, I noticed that I had forgotten to take off my sunglasses. I thought we would be stopping soon again, so I just followed Maddin. Now I was wearing dark (prescription) glasses AND my tinted goggles, effectively reducing my visibility to naught. All I saw was his tail lamp.
The GPS lead us southeast out of town onto an area without real roads or paths. Basically the whole plain was covered by tracks leading in all directions. We found a road, but it soon changed into a construction site with deep soft sand, so it was easier to get off the road again.
When I finally exchanged my sunglasses for clear lenses, I found out that my headlight was absolutely worthless: When Maddin was following me, I could still see my own shadow right in front of me in the 'bright' spot of my light. Note to self: Don't drive at night through the dessert - or get some good auxiliary LEDs.
Eventually we found the hotel, and got a good enough deal for the room and very tasty dinner.

jaumev 04-08-2013 11:52 PM


Originally Posted by pip_muenster (Post 21139403)
................ Don't drive at night through the dessert - or get some good auxiliary LEDs.

I like to see pictures from places I've just visited few weeks ago!!

You are right, is very important to have good lights, there is always one day you needed. Ad drive by night in Morocco is very dangerous, also in the roads, most of people there don't use lights.

Keep coming, and thanks for sharing your trip :clap


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