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-   -   KTM LC4 Toolbox Tabs FIX? (http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=88032)

meat popsicle 07-18-2005 07:18 AM

KTM LC4 Toolbox Tabs FIX?
 
Hey Y'all,

check this out:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...1&page=6&pp=15

:D

meat popsicle 07-18-2005 08:04 AM

alwright, alwright!!! :bluduh

Remaining items: find smaller adel clamps that fit better and I wonder if the clamps will resisit fatigue from vibes? I picked the ones with the "insulation" as this will help but it might be nice to find some overengineered SS or such for a permanent fix. I believe these should still be checked occasionally but for sure if the tabs break the clamps will catch the toolbox and keep it outa your rear wheel. :nod

Can I get an amen Loaded? :ear

Quote:

Originally Posted by meat popsicle
A friend told me: why not just put some line clamps over the whole mess and be done with it? :evil good idea sez me...

so after some measuring, looking at adel clamp specs, and saying well, lets just go look, I went to Home Depot and after asking a few employees who just shrugged I finally found a kid who knew his stuff. These were a $1.25 a pack:
http://strong-clan.smugmug.com/photos/28830862-M.jpg

I got the smallest ones they had there, 5/8", but even these were a tad too large. My measurements were (without anything fancy so if anyone has calipers and wants to refine this stuff I'd appreciate it! :ear) 1/2" tube, 3/4" from the center of the tube to the center of the bolt hole in the crappy tabs, and a 1/4" bolt hole (not important).

http://strong-clan.smugmug.com/photos/28830863-M.jpg


Just detach the Tool Tube (TM) and slip the clamps over the frame/tabs; in the case of the forward one you must wiggle it between the frame and the fender, but it went for me.

http://strong-clan.smugmug.com/photos/28830866-M.jpg

You can see these are too big, but they will help Loaded sleep at night now :smooch

Unless there are any objections I'd say this might be problem solved! :freaky

:ear :ear


GoGriz 07-18-2005 08:35 AM

Very clever solution! Hey, did you pick those up from the electrical department at HD? I would like to go over and pick up some for myself as well...but I don't want to wander all over the store looking for the "kid" who knows his stuff. Now that you've taken one for the team, we can all enjoy the fruits of your labor! Isn't that swell!

meat popsicle 07-18-2005 09:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GoGriz
Very clever solution! Hey, did you pick those up from the electrical department at HD? I would like to go over and pick up some for myself as well...but I don't want to wander all over the store looking for the "kid" who knows his stuff. Now that you've taken one for the team, we can all enjoy the fruits of your labor! Isn't that swell!

wish i could say its all mine but the clamp was my friends idea - glad to be there when he had it!

HD - electrical section, near the conduit stuff. There was a large area of conduit clamps and such, but these buggers were (in this HD) on the other side of the aisle. wish I could be more help... maybe a more specialized shop (electrical supply or sumpin') would be better.

ps - forgot to mention that you might want longer hardware to go thru the clamp hole on the other side; maybe even enough to slip on another nut for those who are still worried. :thumb

meat popsicle 07-18-2005 08:51 PM

request
 
I am lacking any serious measurement ability. Could someone with a set of calipers measure the diameter of the subframe where the toolbox tabs attach, the distance from the center of that frame member to the center of the tab hole where the bolt goes, and the diameter of the bolt hole?

I figured from my rough measures that a 1/4" hole will be sufficient for the clamp to pass the bolt without getting in the way but it might be nice if it were snugger.

Thanks! :wave

creeper 07-18-2005 09:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by meat popsicle
I am lacking any serious measurement ability. Could someone with a set of calipers measure the diameter of the subframe where the toolbox tabs attach, the distance from the center of that frame member to the center of the tab hole where the bolt goes, and the diameter of the bolt hole?

I figured from my rough measures that a 1/4" hole will be sufficient for the clamp to pass the bolt without getting in the way but it might be nice if it were snugger.

Thanks! :wave

Approximate numbers are 13.35mm tube dia. (there's a bit of mud in the way). 10.25mm from bottom of tube to bolt centerline.
So... the math is 10.25 + (13.35รท2) = 16.93mm center of tube to bolt center.

Ciao

Oh yea... got no idea how thick the powdercoat is. :smooch

Loadedagain 07-18-2005 09:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by meat popsicle
Can I get an amen Loaded? :ear

amen... temporarily. better keepin that fugly can outa yer fender well.

meat popsicle 07-19-2005 06:09 AM

the devil's in the details
 
thanks creeper!


13.35mm ~ 0.525in (maybe 0.5 plus 0.025 powdercoating)
19.93mm ~ 0.666in (that explains alot)

Rough it out to 0.53in dia and 0.67in distance. With the insulation on these clamps, or vibe dampening rubber there is some wiggle room but probably not much.

J&M Products has a very nice catalog with these measurements and more listed (to 3 decimal places! +/-0.015 :arg).

http://www.jmproducts.com/clamps.htm

Series LC
PN 44LC1-? (D=0.525) E=0.525/2=0.2625+0.409=0.6710
NEED E-measurement w/ 0.666-0.2625=0.404... custom order? :scratch that important? :dunno

There is also AS4149; they have a different way of coming together at the fastener end, which would not be good in this application. I think the LC Series is good.

J&M Products uses a variety of materials in these things, all listed in the catalog. Anything from Alloy Steel to Ti, with cushions (insulation) made from chloroprene to silicone (even fiberglass). But what is the best materials for this application? Maybe asking J&M is the best solution?

:ear

ps - thanks for the vote of confidence Loaded? :lol3

meat popsicle 08-01-2005 02:23 PM

update
 
A very nice company named J&M Products (SoCal) took my specs and sent me a couple of their clamps to demo. I will get the clamp number and specs for y'all later so you can order or get some for yourselves...

The other ones I got at HD are below the envelope:
http://strong-clan.smugmug.com/photos/30436701-M.jpg

Now when you bend them over the bar and tabs they fit nearly perfectly, well essentially perfectly :tb So I'm thinkin plug and play... BUT, these clamps are designed to align the fastener holes when closed and the tabs don't allow that so i started the process of filing one hole so that the fastener could get through. of course I don't have the right tool for that job (dremel) and i have other things to do so i only half completed it, but y'all could easily finish this job yerselves:

http://strong-clan.smugmug.com/photos/30436710-M.jpg

Note the inner part of the clamp won't sit until the hole is fixed:

http://strong-clan.smugmug.com/photos/30436712-M.jpg

Once this mod is complete they should be great! :freaky

adjuster 04-10-2006 09:17 PM

Custom Brackets?
 
Why not make custom brackets out of either mild galvenized steel?

Run them around the rod case, and also around the rear subframe tube to be sure the rod case does not fall loose in the event of a tab breaking free.

On the end near the rod case cap, a simple solution exists too. It just takes two bolts, and the same strap material. Run a small loop around the frame tube, and a large one around the case near the cap. For extra material, you could just double up the strap between the rod case and the frame tube. (two layers thick, held together with a few bolts.)

I don't have the stock evap system canister clamps. I guess I need to just try this, or buy two of the larger clamps... LOL

Time to go rod case shopping. (Need one in white, so it should be easy I hope.)

meat popsicle 04-10-2006 10:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by adjuster
Why not make custom brackets out of either mild galvenized steel?

Run them around the rod case, and also around the rear subframe tube to be sure the rod case does not fall loose in the event of a tab breaking free.

On the end near the rod case cap, a simple solution exists too. It just takes two bolts, and the same strap material. Run a small loop around the frame tube, and a large one around the case near the cap. For extra material, you could just double up the strap between the rod case and the frame tube. (two layers thick, held together with a few bolts.)

I don't have the stock evap system canister clamps. I guess I need to just try this, or buy two of the larger clamps... LOL

Time to go rod case shopping. (Need one in white, so it should be easy I hope.)

The adel clamps are a good idea because they are plug n' play, for folks who want an easy fix and/or can't fabricate a bracket. When you get your bracket fabricated and mounted post if for us; perhaps you will get an order or two as well!

I have seen the rod cases in red and blue - perhaps the come in white too.

flux_capacitor 10-29-2007 08:38 AM

To revive an old thread...
 
Can anyone tell me what size the thread is on the 2 bolts that would hold the stock toolbox onto those little tabs? Many thanks.

KTMax m AL 10-29-2007 10:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flux_capacitor
Can anyone tell me what size the thread is on the 2 bolts that would hold the stock toolbox onto those little tabs? Many thanks.

They are 6mm/1.00pitch.

Good luck:ricky

flux_capacitor 10-30-2007 06:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KTMax m AL
They are 6mm/1.00pitch.

Good luck:ricky

Thanks dude! :thumb

meat popsicle 03-11-2009 09:48 PM

Critical Update
 
Please review THIS LINK regarding the tool tube if you have this setup or are considering it.

Cross linking:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...t=78041&page=6


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