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-   -   KLR 650 output shaft leak (http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=901129)

Nikolas Stoehr 07-05-2013 09:50 AM

KLR 650 output shaft leak
 
Hello fellow adventure riders. I have a 2005 KLR650 and noticed this weekend that I have a few oil leaks. Oil appears to leaking from the output shaft / counter balance shaft - basically the shaft that the motor sprocket attaches to. I have read that this is a somewhat common problem on these bikes and am wondering if anyone out there has experienced the same issue and how long the problem can exist before it absolutley needs to be remedied. The reason I ask is it doesnt appear to be leaking substantially (2-4) drips a night. Next weekend I'm taking the bike on a 1,200 mile trip and would rather wait to fix until after the trip being that i'd have to order the parts and wouldnt recieve them until the night before i leave. On the flip side, the last thing I need is to be 600 miles from home and have seal/gasket blow out? If someone has had a similar experience i'd like to hear your thoughts.

DanMac 07-05-2013 10:14 AM

!
 
My bike currently has the exact same leak. I've put a bit over 1 grand on it with the leak. It has gotten a touch worse, but nothing crazy yet. Just bring some extra oil and make sure you keep that topped off. There is no 'gasket blow out' with these.

Its basically a free floating metal collar on the counter sprocket shaft and then a rubber seal that goes around that between the collar and the engine case itself. There is also the oring, but whatever.

Anyways, there is no real catastrophic failure with this besides running out of oil and blowing the engine.

The actual repair takes about 1 hour. No biggy.

BlackHawkChief 07-05-2013 10:20 AM

hope this helps
 
here is the How To when you decide on fixing it


1. Remove sprocket cover (3 6mm bolts, w/ 10mm heads)
2. Remove large keeper nut, washer and sprocket, and chain.
Usually you can pop the chain off the sprocket, and tuck the chain out of
the way against the swingarm. You'll need to flatten out the washer with a
punch and hammer. The large nut requires a 27mm hex socket, or you
can get by with a 1-1/16" socket.
3. The oil seal is inside the left half of the crankcase, but usually comes
out pretty easily. I bent a small screwdriver to use as a removal tool.
Pry on the front, then back, then top, then bottom, repeat, seal is out.
Place seal in discard pile.
4. On the countershaft, there will be a collar. Remove the collar and
check to see that it is not excessively worn or grooved from the seal.
If it is worn you should replace it.
5. On the countershaft, behind the collar, there will also be an O-ring.
Remove the O-ring and set in the discard pile.
6. Clean the countershaft and the seal surfaces with WD40 and clean rags.
7. Install the new O-ring onto the base of the countershaft. I slipped it
into place with a small scrap of rolled paper acting as a sleeve.
8. Wipe the bore for the seal with clean oil, and install the oil seal with the
smooth side out. Press it into place with your thumbs. It should be FLUSH
with the surrounding case. NO gasket compound needed.
9. Dribble clean oil onto the collar, and install it onto the countershaft.
Be sure the notched end goes in first. Check the parts diagram to be sure.
10 Reinstall the sprocket and chain, and the cover. You'll need to bend the
tabs of the washer back up to hold the nut. Double check the chain
tension.

Late model parts: I replace the O-ring and Seal when I'm in there, but
you'll want to double check the collar for wear, or the new seal will begin
leaking all too soon.

Collar 92027-1800
O-Ring 92055-1293
Oil seal 92049-1159

Check buykawasaki.com or your dealer to be certain on p/n.
ronayers.com or bikebandit can sell you the stuff online.

SkiBumBrian 07-05-2013 11:00 AM

Usually caused by the chain being too tight...


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