Madagascar, Land fo freedom, Kingdom of offroad adventure
Every other year, I go for two weeks of off-road adventure with friends. We all like tight off-road stuff. We also like racing pace. But most of all we like adventure rides that combine the above and disconnects us from our gentle family European life.
We found this in Madagascar and much more. A 2000km trip, 11,5 days off-road ride through fantastic landscapes, challenging terrain and the most off-road bikers friendly people Iīve ever met.
After 2007, 2009 and 2011 being 3500km off-road trips in Morocco, we were looking for new lands for our knobbies. 2012 I travelled with my wife to Madagascar, kids at grandma, and did some soft ADV, a few hundred km, mostly off-road, 2 on a Chinese bike :eek1:
No big thrill but still better than a Honda cub, and most of all a good way to get the first impressions of what a larger-scale ride could be with an appropriate thumper.
Then, when we were in Nosy Be, we met Thierry:
Thierry and Andrea had there a number of well maintained Honda XR400 CRF450 with long range tanks, belonging to them and to friends of their MC from all Madagascar. They do local races and occasionally also organise for clients 1-day trips in Nosy Be (check the more detailed map below) and sometimes a few days on mainland. But every year in July/August they leave with the club for several weeks of adventures, discovering new tracks around Madagascar. So they were exactly the right people to organise an ambitioned trip "a la carte" with.
Well you can imagine the connection was quickly made, so I talked with Thierry and a few weeks later spoke to my friends to build up a team and do it.
From the usual suspects, the team was formed of I, Patrick, Marc and Antonio. Except Antonio, the other 3 of us had already lived in Africa, so we had an idea of it means to spend a night out in the bush there. Antonio was the rookie in this trip, but he was so boiling excited and overmotivated that he simply belonged to the team.
If ever you donīt know much about Madagascar, or maybe just know that itīs an island somewhere, here is how our 2000km trip (tracks, north) looks like:
So even if you considered doing a 18000km ride from spain to kamtschatka, it should be possible there too.
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The actual trip, more in details, looks like:
Thierry was our guide and swiss knife all along the trip. He knew local language, the habits, (most of) the tracks, and always had quick and good ideas how to get out of tricky situations.
Patrick "Reverend" is the wise of the group, always calm friendly mood. But he is a bit like, in the Western movies, the former burglar who becomes a preacher.
Antonio "El Matador"https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-w...o/DSCN0766.JPG
Not only because of :killen:drifbut also the fighting spirit, permanent electric enthusiasm and good mood he brought into the trip.
Marc (left), myself (right)
Marc "stunt man":muutt. For him, any stop means "stoppie", any acceleration means "wheelie", riding steady pace means :splat
Myself. Franck "the boss". Could be because I coordinated the whole trip from the beginning, and felt like somehow responsible there that we all make it safe to the end.
Linked over from Tiffany's page,looks good so far!
the plan, the packing
So we made a plan with Thierry. Coming from rallye we were quite ambitious. But also eager to discover, we wanted to spend time in the western, hot drier climate, in the East and itīs rainforests, in the north peak and itīs sand trails, travel through the mountains in the centre. Thierry is a racer, his heart beats for endure riding, so he put all his networking for sewing the best-fit program for all 5.
Quite early in the planning it was clear we had to go for an autonomous trip. Where weīd go, no 4x4 would pass.
This meant travelling as light as it goes, all in a back pack.
Marc, Thierry and I managed to keep it to 5kg, Patrick and Antonio had 2kg more, opting for a bit more comfort.
+ each about 1kg spare parts and up to 3 liters of water in a camel bag.
My equipement list for 2 weeks was sparse: beyond the summer MX-gear (no jacket), I had: 1x MX-socks, 1x MX-gloves, 1xMX-shirt, one silk liner for the night, flippers, 2 t-shirts, 1 long-sleeve shirt, 1 "k-way"-style rain coat, 4 briefs, 1 convertible pant, 1 hat. 1 android tel./GPS. 1 compact water proof FT 25 cam. compact micro-fiber towel, minimalist hygiene kit, one bathing brief, one 3-liter camel bag.
We did not want simply to go there, zip through the landscape, and give back only our smiles to thank the locals.
Back last year, with my wife, we spotted a bush orphanage in Ste-Marie Island. Michelle and her team also built a bush hospital and a school. http://www.zazakely.org/orphelinat.html
Closer to the start of our trip, I heard about an association who built a school and needed equipment for the pupils. We contacted them. Frederic and Veronique from the association told us what they need http://www.madilo.org/index.php/les-enfants-de-madilo
As the end we collected, helped by members of our MC-club and work colleagues, 1720 and 120 school bags.
So we headed to Madagascar with 24kg of school bags.
We were all looking forward to the date... we trained:
We were ready:
On the start:
..crossing the alps, heading to Milano airport...
... and finally, after a night up in the air, landing welcomed by a fresh morning breeze :eek1
landing in paradise
First day was planned for a smooth transition... getting used to the heat, first impressions, recover from the journey.
Thierry welcomed us at Nosy Be airport with his pick-up truck, we took some local cash a Hellville, the islandīs town, where we also had a quick breakfast
Finally we dropped our bag 15km further in Dar es Salam, at Andrea who invited us for dinner, and then headed for the beach:
At this point, itīs worth mentioning that this beach is THE most touristic public place from the whole 600,000km2 of Madagascar. And there were not much tourists to be seen. These are mostly pinned to all-inclusive luxury resorts in Nosy Be. Madagascar only gets 25% of the amount of tourists visiting neighbouring, 400x smaller, Ile Maurice....
After refreshing in the Indien Ocean (the Mozambique canal to be more precise), we headed for an 8 langouste and urchin menu at the beach "gargotte" (= low-tech, local friendly style, restaurant):
moving into riding spirit
After a relaxing day we then headed to Andrea. Nice house, decorated in local style
and nice garage...:D...
our 5 Honda raid XR400 ready to hit the dust..
With the sun set over the sea line, we moved to aperitif. A bit of planning was there too. We met there Mauro (2nd from left), a friend from Thierry's MC, who would join us the first few days.
Then Julienne, Andreaīs wife, cooked us an excellent Italian-Malgache dinner, with pasta, carpaccio and octopus salad
all we then set a meeting point for the next morning, 8:00 ready to ride.
Day one: Nosy be - nosy be
...well, I guess that, at some point, in a ride report, someone rides:
After a comfortable night at Andrea, Thierry joined us for breakfast. 6AM sun rises over the horizon. We picked our bike in the garage.
Thierry showed us some tricks how to kick-start it easily (no magic button).
This first day was meant as a loop to get used to the bikes, to check that they all run fine, apply some personal settings. But it was also an opportunity for Thierry to check we had the necessary skills to make it to the end. At Madagascar, some places, one is 2 days away from the closest good hospital. A broken leg, there is nothing else than a Zebu to carry you over 50km of single trail.
First part of the morning we then headed through rocky trails to mount Passot from which we get a panorama on the 20x25km volcanic Island. Several crater lakes surround the peak
loving the ride report already, :lurk and feeling very excited as that is an area I'll be reaching later next month. Currently heading south and east in Madagascar on the Suzuki DR 350 that I've bought here.
maybe I'll look up Thierry when I reach Nosy Be.
Just PM me, Iīll give you all the necessary data. Watch out for the climate getting worse in the North now that summer comes, with itīs rain... there are definitely many river crossings involved, most had low level when we were there, some still upper thigh. Also mud. Also donīt rely too much on what people say if a road can be taken or not. Most donīt realise what a DR350 is able to cope with. As a rule of thumb, where Zebu with trailers go, you can go. You may need help at some places, may suffer from the rough terrain (a Zebu with trailer is a, albeit slow, but very capable vehicle), but with time and efforts, youīll get through. Where only Zebu go is like following a hiking path in a mountain: at some point, youīll get stuck. You have a very good machine for Madagascar, going into the bush and outback is a very rich experience there.
We then rode down mount Passot into forest trails
, crossed a few tiny villages and arrived at Bertrand.
Betrand is situated at the centre of the Island. There he fixed an builds anything out of wood or metal... without electricity. He has about 20 different processing machines, all run by man power:
Time as well to change customize bike settings:
After a refreshing Mango-Break, we then rode on volcano crests
and then down to the fisher village of Ambatozavavy, where we had lunch:
This is on this very first day of riding, out in this little village, that we understood that, despite our plan to travel through the outback, that this adventure will also get itīs GASTRONOMIC dimension.
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Finding My Way
thanks for the offer of the data, however...I do not have a GPS so I don't think I'll be able to follow your routes! Though I will be going up and around the north east coast - and yes, I know it's going to get rainy, however I'm in the southern and western part first where the rain starts earlier.
Being relaxed and energised by this rest and nice lunch, we took off through path connecting villages, we crossed a few slippery rivers where local were washing and bathing.
I had initiated the first crash fro the group there, a hole deeper than thought to be, between two large slippery rocks at the end of the river, front wheel got caught and my bike landed sideways on the rock... bent hand guard, quickly straightened back.
The last part of the day took a completely different nature... bye-bye the scenic and quite relaxed enduro trail... we headed to more extreme things, with always raising difficulty, trails getting thinner, steeper, inclined sideways, rocks, roots, large holes and deep ruts, up to 3m deep. Lots of body work to find the necessary traction, sweat, higher rhythm... and resulting in less pictures taken..
BTW: a well maintained bridge... always stay focussed over bridges
Antonio started boiling and getting exhausted, when he fell with his bike into a hole, bike upside down. I was behind him and helped him to kick the bike and cheer him up. He continued to fight up the mine field.
It all took an end when Thierry almost fell into a 3m deep hole, he hit a hidden tree stump, bike upside-down hanging over the hole... that was close :eek1.
Thierry showing us how not to fall in his hole:
Rest of the ride, we had some steep inclines downwards with big steps, more scenic hill trails, and a rocky dusty single trail back to the town. Itīs the place Marc chose to show his stunt-man skills when his bike flew as he hit a hidden rock while chasing and overtaking Patrick.. couldnīt stand the somewhat slower pace of Patrick. One finger thorn and a first warning :deal
Some people breaking large stones into tiny ones and selling this building material along our trail back
So the appetitive right when we arrived back at Dar Es Salam was more than welcome:
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