ADVmonster LED Headlight!
After some positive feedback from customers at the 2014 Georgia Mountain Rally are excited to introduce our LED Headlight.
The H4, H1, H3, H8, H9, H11 have been released.
2400 lumens on low beam and 2400 lumens on high beam
6000k color temperature
High and Low Beam
1 year warranty
30,000 hour expected life
Plug n Play
Unique construction for easy installation
Available at www.advmonster.com
Year-Bike-LED Model-Mods required
2008-Yamaha WR250R-H4-Minor trimming of rubber boot
2005-Suzuki Vstrom 650-H4-Minor trimming of rubber boot
1992-BMW R100GS-H4-Minor trimming of rubber boot
1995-Kawasaki KLR650-H4-Minor trimming of rubber boot
2010-BMW F800GS-H7-Modification of the cap covering the headlight bucket
2003-Yamaha WR450F-H4-Minor trimming of rubber boot
2008-Kawasaki KLR650-H7-Tweaking of retainer spring
2014-Kawasaki Ninja 1000-H7-Bending of retainer spring
2006-Buell Ulysses-H7-covers removed
2006-BMW F650GS Dakar-H4
2006-BMW R1200GS-H7-Hole in headlight bucket cover
2002-BMW R1150GS-H1-significant modifcations
2003-BMW K1200LT-H7-Hole in headlight bucket cover
2007 Suzuki DL1000-H4
2013 Yamaha FZ1 - H4
2005 Suzuki DrZ400S - H4
2005 Yamaha XT225 - H4
2011 Bonneville T100 - H4 close fit, need to organize wiring in the bucket to make space.
1998-2001 5th Gen VFR800
Potential Issues or Does not fit
2014 KTM 1290 superduke - LED fits fine, however the light flashes as the ecu thinks the bulb is burnt out - add some turn signal resistors to simulate load
201X KTM Canbus bikes - ECU thinks the headlight is burnt out. Add turn signal resistors to simulate load.
1980 and prior BMW with power/diode board in headlight bucket.
Moto Guzzi Breva 1100 - does not fit
Remove headlight mask
Remove protective packaging from the H4 LED Headlight. Shown with pigtail.
Remove H4 mounting base from LED. The base is the secret to getting an LED to work with an H4. The H$ typically uses spring loaded wires to hold the halogen or LED in the headlight. This wire is difficult to get around a heatsink or a fan on older technology. The LED is keyed to the H4 base such that it can only be inserted one direction.
Remove rubber dust boot. Stock H4 halogen in place
Squeeze wire retainer and lift, remove stock H4 haologen. Comparison shot of stock H4 halogen with connector and the H4 LED headlight.
Insert LED H4 base, check for proper fit, ie right size tabs in the correct position.
Squeeze wire retainer and tighten on H4 LED base.
Position rubber dust boot over H4 base and headlight bucket.
Insert LED headlight into H4 base and rotate until detent position. This locks the LED headlight into the H4 base.
Connect pigtail to H4 LED headlight and reinstall mask. Picture of LED headlight with mask installed.
Enjoy the white light!
email sent, tagged for pictures... :deal
Added pics to the WR install.
This LED headlight uses Cree LEDs that are very efficient, ie they do not create excessive heat.
Some older technology LED headlights use COB (chip on board) which are inefficient and create large amounts of heat, this requires a fan to remove the excess heat. I wonder what happens when the fan fails? Or what company makes the LEDs:wink:
I was fortunate enough to be able to spend some time in the GMR vendor area and observe Sanjoh install one of these LED headlights in his newly acquired R100GS. I took a few pictures of the install process; then purchased a couple of these bulbs for my airheads. 20 Watt draw vs 55 Watts.
Below is the airhead GS with the stock H4 installed. First, lower the handlebars to make some room to work. Shown is the back of the stock H4 bulb installed, but the end plug has been removed. The rubber cap is still attached - this rubber cap will require a minor modification.
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/123798031@N04/14140938425" title="P1000795 by r nope, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2919/14140938425_04c0acce39_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="P1000795"></a>
The rubber cap has been removed and the back of the stock bulb is shown. Also shown is the wire clip that must be gently spread apart to allow the stock bulb to be removed. (This works much better is there is a bit of room - did I mention that it really helps to loosen the clamping bolts and rotate the handle bar back a bit?)
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/123798031@N04/13954262999" title="P1000796 by r nope, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2919/13954262999_30bf998164_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="P1000796"></a>
As shown in Sanjoh's earlier pictures, the new LED H4 bulb has a sub-socket that is secured with a bayonet-type locking mechanism to the bulb. The sub-socket should be removed from the LED bulb and installed where the old bulb was located. Then replace the wire spring clips to hold this sub-socket in place.
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/123798031@N04/13954267429" title="P1000833 by r nope, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7447/13954267429_5bb829a0c9_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="P1000833"></a>
The rubber cap needs a minor modification. That modification is to cut a hole in the center where the old plug was connected to the socket. If you want to have an extra, unmodified rubber cap, for the GS it is part number 63 12 1 459 377 and cost about $14. Shown is the rubber cap re-installed over the sub-socket that is clipped in place. (Yes, this hole was cut a bit too large, but this was the first installation of one of these bulbs).
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/123798031@N04/13954393010" title="P1000836 by r nope, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7318/13954393010_525756a976_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="P1000836"></a>
Below is the LED bulb with the sub-socket removed. The bayonette-type of connection for the bulb the the sub-socket is shown. That is, the bulb is inserted and given about a 1/8 clock-wise turn.
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/123798031@N04/13954275739" title="P1000828 by r nope, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2925/13954275739_bd301b2c09_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="P1000828"></a>
Here are the hands of Sanjoh installing the LED bulb. This was actually an early test at the install. Did I mention that it really helps to have some room (rotating the handlebars back a bit is the key).
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/123798031@N04/13954306108" title="P1000821 by r nope, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7385/13954306108_1710466c55_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="P1000821"></a>
Shown below is the newly installed LED bulb in the R100GS. There is a pigtail (about 6 inches long) that is connected to the plug.
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/123798031@N04/13954299350" title="P1000839 by r nope, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2923/13954299350_7dba98e5a7_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="P1000839"></a>
Here is the GS with the stock light on - can hardly tell that it is on - hence Sanjoh's motivation to get the new LED bulb installed - GMR GS ride coming up!
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/123798031@N04/13954301450" title="P1000843 by r nope, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2929/13954301450_58448a65b2_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="P1000843"></a>
While not as an impressive a demonstration as the underwater pix for the aux LED lights (in the other thread), here is the illumination with the new LED bulbs. This is quite a big difference from the earlier photo.
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/123798031@N04/13954254737" title="P1000842 by r nope, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7403/13954254737_30d9a7c219_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="P1000842"></a>
Thanks for posting Rob, good to see you at the GMR!
Over the long cold winter here in Madison, I've changed all my lights to LED's to leave some room for some heated gear. Looks like its time to do the headlight!
If I can get it before the end of the month I can showcase it at the Great River Gravel Ride. E Mail sent.
I'm wishing that I'd purchased more than two bulbs from you at the GMR. I'd not realized how good the rally price was nor really thought about the number of other bikes that would benefit from the simple (well after the first time) install.
Definitely going to order one when I get a chance!:D
Do you have any night time "before and after" pics of the stock headlight vs. the new one?
I referred a few people over here to the other thread.I'll drop a link to this thread also.I am ready to be a test mule for crusiers.How will the light output be behind the 7 round inch fluted lens?All of mine are glass lens with chrome steel reflectors.I think my GS500E are different.I know the lens is flatter in comparison.
Pictured is my '01 V Star 650 Classic.The Custom model is either 4.5 or 5 inch.
89-98 GS500E Headlight.You can see where the stock H4 wiring rubs the housing.It may be a no go for the GS500E
Hoping this fits my light challenged LC4.
Looks like a well thought out product, looking forward to ordering one once they're available.
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