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Old 06-05-2009, 07:31 AM   #61
Desert Dave
Enjoying the moment
 
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Joined: Aug 2004
Location: Tracy, CA
Oddometer: 2,706
Quote:
Originally Posted by DockingPilot
The new gas charged cartdridge, you slip itno the fork tubes and it sits on the bottom of the tube. Well there is a hole down there, because you already removed the hex head bolt to remove the old one. Now you put the bolt back in to hold the new one in place. But when you tighten the bolt the new cartdridge will want to spin with the bolt and you cant hold it to stop it because it's inside your fork tube and your hands wont fit in there. So what you di is use an impact wrench. They spin bolts so fast the cartdridge cant keep up and it will tighten nicely. This is a comon way of tightening things like this, such as flywheels.
Jus curious, does Bitubo recommened doing it that way? Most (all that I've done anyway) forks require a special tool to put down to fork tube to hold the unit in place while I use a torque wrench to set the bolt. So far I've always been able to make a tool for this use out of things I've bought at a hardware store instead of buying one. Even if I can just get the bolt started an finger tight without it spinning (often no tool required) by the time I put a spring and the cap on there's enough tension to torque it to spec without it spinning . I'm guessing your way will be fine, but I'd rather not impact it (when putting it on) or overtorque it if I can help it.

Your initial assesment sounds exciting and I can't wait to hear how you feel after getting in some good riding. Sounds like the dampning works like it should have from the factory (not locking on sharp hits) and the stiffer spring should avoid bottoming (another problem for me). This could be the solution.

So basically now it works as good as any bargain Showa inverted forks from the mid 90s Way to go Marzocchi!!!
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