View Single Post
Old 08-26-2009, 09:06 AM   #20
planktonnn OP
.also, i am a twat
 
planktonnn's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2008
Location: ...Fuckinemshite...
Oddometer: 3,612
So, The Standard One is mostly stripped. The fairing will need a reasonable amount of patching & painting. We'd like to avoid a full respray as it would cost too much, and in some senses would be untrue to the bike. It's done 80k, it doesn't have to look brochure fresh. The fork stanchions are a bit tatty, but recoverable, or they'll be replaced from the spares department (my shed). Front disk seems almost new, pads & caliper seals may be replaced, depending on what I find when I get in there. Single disk at the front was standard for this model/frame number, though I might like to stick another on if possible. Even one brembo beats two ATE's anyway It's a drum rear, which unlike the disk rear, does actually provide some retardation. Not that we're lacking that here.

The frame is sound, though there's slightly more surface rust on the rear of the frame and on the subframe than I might have expected. We suspect a waterlogged seat under a dripping drain, or a man with a watering can & a vendetta against properly fabricated frames. It's all simple to clean & coat though and now I've degreased it things look ok. There was a crack on one end of the pressed steel strap across the top of the subframe, which Shinyboyspankly has been kind enough to stick together with his magic metal melt melding skills. The subframe should be cleaned & coated today, and will be placed in the assembly area (my shed).

The swing arm needs a little cosmetic attention and maybe new bearings, but the driveshaft & bevel box seem very good with almost zero wear or play. The rear shock seems good with no leaks or bounce, though we've got a spare anyway. It needs a new rear tyre (that's tire for those that need translations). The gearbox seems very smooth, though beyond inspection, the only way to know if the drivetrain's ok is when we run it. All seems good so far though.

The block doesn't turn over freely, i.e. plugs out/allen key in rotor bolt. It will turn, and keeping in mind that it's sat untouched for four years then such stiffness might perhaps be expected, but my guess is an unhappy rear crank seal & main bearing, as there's a lot of glooped up oil in the bell housing. All the engine/transmission/brake fluids are clean, as if the thing was serviced before being parked up, due we are told to an electrical problem. The next step is to pull the barrels off to see if the pistons or rings are bound, or at least to elliminate that as the source of the stiffness, pull off the sump to check for metal mess, and get to the big ends & mains to see what's causing the problem. We'd rather not have to change the mains &/or big ends, but it seems I'm going to have a practice run with my other airhead anyway

Overall it still seems a pretty good prospect, and the cash we'd recoup from sale of the stainless exhaust system & top box/pannier cases would cover what the whole thing cost us anyway. Sometimes I wonder why I bother starting anything like this, but everything will be fine once I get my lobotomy.
Attached Images
 
__________________
...using the wrong spanner since 1964...
planktonnn is offline   Reply With Quote