So the other day I pulled out the carbs to drill out the caps over the pilot screws. I also wanted to take off the float bowls and have a look inside just to check for general cleanliness, clogged jets, etc.
I purchased the official Kawasaki service manual from RepairManual.com
. This manual is great, it's very well-written and guided me through the job. They had it in stock and I got it in the mail a few days later. Well worth the $55 it will cost you. I only wish that it was 3-hole-punched and in a binder like the Triumph manual so it would lay flat but I guess a hacksaw and a 3-hole-punch can fix that pretty quick.
I hope these steps will help folks who might need to do this in the future.
1) First step is to remove the seat. Put your key in the lock, turn it and remove the seat upward and to the rear. Set it aside where you won't step on it or spill stuff on it. You will then be faced with this view:
2) Next thing is to remove both side covers. The mounting is slightly different for each one. On the left side there is a phillips screw at the bottom of the side cover and a locating pin that passes through a grommet at the rear of the side cover:
On the right side cover, there are two phillips screws, one at the bottom and one at the rear.
Finally there are 2 phillips screws at the top, to the rear of the fuel tank.
Pull the sidecovers off carefully and set them aside.
3) Next it's time to remove the fuel tank. First prepare a place to set it, preferably on a towel or something so you won't scratch the paint on the bottom. Get out your 10mm socket and remove the two bolts at the rear of the tank.
Now go to the left side of the tank and pull the two hoses off the petcock. The smaller hose is the vacuum hose - this bike has a vacuum activated petcock. Make sure the petcock is set to "ON" or "RES" before disconnecting any hoses. If it's set to "PRI" you will get doused with gasoline when you pull off the fuel hose.
The fuel hose has a small metal clamp around it, Kawasaki was kind enough to design these clamps so you can undo them with your fingers - no pliers required. Just squeeze the tabs together and move it down the hose past the tap. Thanks Kawi!
Now go to the right side of the tank and find the two vent hoses that attach to the bottom of the tank and feed down between the carbs and end up down by the swingarm. The book says to remove these from the tank but I found it's easier to just pull them up and out to the side so you can remove the tank with the vent hoses in place. Once you pull the hoses out, you can now pull the tank to the rear to disengage the front mounting lugs, then carefully lift it up and set it aside. Dropping it would be a very expensive mistake.
You are now looking at this:
The next step is to remove the airbox. In order to do that, you have to deal with the electrical panel that lives under the left side cover. So:
4) Disconnect the electrical connections from the battery. To do that, go up to the top and look at the underseat area. The fusebox lives there and is held down by a rubber strap. Pull the fuse box out from the rubber strap and let it hang by the wiring harness over the left side of the frame.
There are two little plastic hinged covers over the battery terminals. Pull them back and undo the battery connections (ground first, then positive).
Now go to the left side and locate the two 10mm bolts that hold the electrical panel in place:
Undo the bolts. You may also wish to loosen some of the flexible metal straps that hold various parts of the wiring harness in place. The idea is to create enough room to get the battery out by swinging the entire electrical panel forward using the harness as a hinge. This is made easier by pulling the + and - battery cables out from the battery box. Once you do that, you can easily swing the whole thing aside and pull the battery out. The airbox is also the battery box so it's gotta come out.
Now disconnect the air injection hard line attached to the airbox from the soft hose that runs to the air injection pump. This junction is located under the frame backbone just above the carbs.
Go up top and remove the two 8mm bolts that mount the airbox. These are located the same area as the top side cover screws.
Now go underneath the carbs and find the crankcase ventilation hose. Disconnect it from the airbox by removing the clamp and pulling off the hose - this clamp can also be undone by finger power.
Now go to the left side of the airbox and find the two phillips screws that secure the two halves of the airbox. One is located just to the left of where the electrical panel mounts, the other is located on the airbox just below where the electrical panel would be. For some reason I forgot to take a picture of these.
Once you undo those two screws, the airbox is almost ready to come out in halves. There are also two drain hoses, one for each half of the airbox. They are hard to reach with the airbox in place but if you undo them as you pull the airbox out they are easy to get to. Again, remove the clamps with finger power and pull the hoses off. The airbox is removed to the rear and to the side. You have to disengage them from the carbs and then pull them out. The top of the airbox may snag the wiring harness as you pull it out. Pull the airbox halves out and then set them aside.
5) Now you are ready to pull out the carbs. For some reason I stopped taking lots of pictures at this point. Here's what you gotta do: First, follow the wiring harness from the throttle position sensor on the right carb up until you find its connector zip-tied to the frame backbone:
You need to pull apart the connector and then cut the big wire tie so you can get the carb end out.
The service manual also talks about disconnecting the plug for the carb heaters but the U.S. model doesn't have those.
Next, loosen the two clamps that secure the carbs to the boots on the cylinder head. Pull the carbs back to disengage them from the boots and then angle them over to the left side to deal with the throttle cables.
There are two cables and a little gold-colored clip that secures the cables to their bracket on the carbs. Unhook the little clip (it stays attached to one of the cables) and then you can slide the throttle cables out of their brackets.
You then need to play around with the throttle lever a bit to find the right place where you can disengage the cables from the throttle. You may need to increase the cable freeplay at the throttle grip (loosen the locknuts and spin the adjuster nuts clockwise) to have enough slack in the cables to disengage them from the carbs.
Once you have those free, the carbs are out, ready for you to do as you wish.
Installation is the reverse of removal.