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Old 11-03-2009, 02:48 PM   #10
Navel OP
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Joined: Feb 2009
Location: Galicia, Spain. Exiled in Madrid.
Oddometer: 154
Day 4: Talsinnt- Erfoud (Part I). The day we met Hillary.

I regard every single day I spent in Marocco as amazing, not only for being in the company of good friends but also because everything was great: the people, the landscape, the food…you name it!.
But we had had too much riding on tarmac so far, that changed on day 4 where we found fast open tracks, the vastness of the plateau and riding for hours on endless dirt tracks that reached into the horizon gave me a freedom feeling that is hard to explain, but you know what I am talking about!

Anyway less talk and more pics!

After checking out from our “hotel” we looked up on our michelin restaurant guide for the next star rated café to have our breakfast, that was in Tajjite I think, a short ride away from our night camp.

Café Rania, where we had boiled eggs as an unexpected alternative to the daily “Vache qui rit” cheese. (eggs in such a hot climate might not be such a good idea but…this is an adventure after all!)

Exiting the village to the Southwest we found the track to Boudnib, an amazing fast piste with some sand patches and rocky sections, but let the pics do the talking.

We met some goat shepherds, they were half-nomadic spending 6 months a year with the cattle living in haimas.

I stopped in front of one of those Haimas thinking what an austere life this people had, when two girls no older than 10 came out of the tent and shot a picture of me, I was so shocked, I guess they found a simple guy like me quite exotic too.
That this girls had a digital camera was something I didn´t expect, then I thought about all the things we have and about the good hearted adventurer who gave them a camera...anyway I don´t want to get very profound on this and bore you with my thoughts.

I was closing the group and had to ride on....

In the middle of the Plateau we found a “col”

While taking some pictures at the top of the hill, we got taken over by a woman with a mule we had seen at the bottom of the steep climb.

WAIT A MINUTE!!...A woman at the top?

A donkey?


After taking some pictures with her, we had our fun down the rocks

It was getting damm hot, so we were very happy to find an oasis

There was a water spring in the oasis, but only Manel was man enough to drink some, we expected him to spend the rest of the day in the toilet, but he was fine though, even after the delicious Lamb Tajin we had at Boudnib.

The restaurant at Boudnib

It was really hot in Boudnib, which reminds me of...

Desert survival rule #3: If you only have one compass, and it is made of plastic, don´t leave it on top of your bike exposed to the sun while you have lunch.
Note: the melting point of a plastic compass is 53º C (127.5 º F)

When we were planning the trip the temperature we could reach in the desert in July was a big concern for all of us, but we could actually cope quite well with it, the trick: drink a lot, take some rest in the central hours of the day, mesh jackets and… take it easy.

It also helps that the air is so dry (humidity is under 10%) that the temp feeling is not as bad as the thermometer reading would suggest.

Now we had to hit the track again but, although the BMW averages 300 km on a Tank, we had a lot of sandy riding ahead so we´d better find some gas (and there was no gas station in Boudnib)

(To be continued soon)

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