Itís a beautiful area.
Iím struck by the differences between travelling here on the Baja Peninsula and on the mainland. My first and most obvious observation is that baja is a land of Gringos. Just about every stop Iíve made has led me to a bar or restaurante that was filled with English speaking natives and ex-pats. So while that makes carrying on more complex conversations much easier, it also seems to reduce oneís contact with the local Mexicanos. Iíve found in my travels on the mainland, especially in the non-touristy areas that Iím attracted to, that the locals are generally really pleased that youíve learned enough of their language to communicate with them in however limited a manner. Here on the peninsula, I think they also appreciate it, but they are also eager to demonstrate their own command of our language. I suppose the biggest effect of that will be that my Spanish speaking skills will not be honed as much here as they might be over on the mainland.
Mulege has a river flowing through it. Itís barely the trickle of a small creek right now, but last fall they were all but wiped out by flooding by a hurricane which swept cars and trucks from the streets of the town out to sea, never to be seen again. I happened to stop into Jungla Jimís, another ex-pat bar by the banks of the Mulege River, and the locals pointed to the high water mark, which was just below ceiling level of this one story building. Iíve heard plenty of other stories about the flooding and itsí effects. One ex-pat has been building a house upstream along the river, and has been set back by the four floods this area has suffered in the last 6 years. My advice: donít build on the flood plain.
They happened to be having a weekly rib dinner the evening I stopped at Jungla Jimís, and the local ex-pats told me it was ďa good feedĒ, the same words used to describe the weekly steak dinner Iíd attended in San Felipe. It was interesting to watch the restaurante fill up with Americans in what I assume is a weekly ritual amongst the ex-pats. While both dinners were good, I find myself vaguely wishing afterwards that Iíd had some more local fare.
Remains of some homes that got wiped out in September's flood.
Here's the trickle of water flowing through this river now.
During September's flood the water was almost to the underside of the bridge.
The Mission at Mulege.
View west from the mission.
Rode down the coast along Bahia de Concepcion. Itís beautiful here.
Iíll post more as it occurs to me, and for sure when I leave for points south and the mainland next week.