Well, after three and a half weeks here on the Oaxacan coast, Iíve rediscovered something I all ready knew, but I suppose I felt I needed to test my hypothesis anyway. There are ďBeach peopleĒ, and there are the rest of us. Iím tired of the heat and humidity and ready to head up into the mountains to cool off a bit and hopefully shake the humidity to some extent. Most of the days here are spent in the shade, often sipping a cool drink, and praying for a breeze. Itís just too damn hot to go out for any length of time. I was born with a fully functioning set of sweat glands, and I find myself usually saturated in sweat within 10 minutes out in the sun. Thereís a kind of sticky, smelly gestalt to the life in places like this, that I just canít seem to wrap my head around. Instead, I find myself pausing in front of the open freezer door as I get ice cubes and savoring 10 seconds of some semblance of relief.
Itís not terribly better in the evenings unless youíre sitting still. The minute you exert any calories moving from one spot to another, the same stickiness pervades your being in a way that tries to claim you as one of its own. Itís only the knowledge that a dayís ride away is a 5K ft elevation gain, a consequent drop in temperature, and presumably some relief, that doesn't have me feeling trapped in a humidity bubble.
Itís interesting getting the feel of different towns down here and the variations in native and ex-pat cultures. Puerto Escondido has a large population of ex-pats, snow birds, and surfers hanging around, but itís still a small pond. Iím again reminded of what life was like in high school, surrounded by the same 300 people every day. The result seems to be a cultural morph into a kind of island culture. Where the inhabitants, cut off from the larger world, have evolved arcane social quirks as their familiarity with each other increases, and the social customs of the world ďout thereĒ fade into a pot and alcohol fueled murk. As I said, itís all very interesting. Still, itís been a pleasant town, with lots to see and do and eat. Next time, Iíll come in the dead of winter rather than the shoulder season.
My biggest issue Iíve had so far is trying to find a map. I intended to buy one of the area when I got down here, (mine ran out about 50 miles north of here). I havenít found one yet, so I may be writing down directions from googlemaps and using that to navigate for a while. Go ahead and laugh you gps geeks. If I had a map, Iíd be more inclined to ride down the coast and up to San Cristobal, but as it stands, the simpler thing would be to ride to Ciudad Oaxaca and purchase a map there. These little things, that would be so easily accomplished in the US at any filling station are the things that makes traveling abroad, and in Mexico in this case, a bit more of an adventure than you might have predicted. So it goes.
Meanwhile, Iíve got a cat or a opposum walking on my palm-thatched roof, and the gecko who lives behind my sofa is becoming bolder as he begins to realize after cohabiting for the last month that Iím not out to get him. I think heís kind of cute actually.
The view from the check-out line at the Super Che, (supermarket), here in P.E.
That's what I call a supermarket with a view. Sorry, but I've not been taking many photos lately, so that's all for now.