I pulled the trigger on an FE570
This thread will document the modifications, the good, and the bad things about the bike. They say the FI is perfect and it handles like a 250 two stroke. Well I'm coming from an 03 250EXC so we'll see how it compares handling wise. The 250 is for sale
by the way
Let's get started.
First thing I do when I get a new bike is take it apart. I like to check for proper torque and fitting dressing, anti-seize, loctite, or grease depending on fitting and use. I also need to get the basic setup done for my riding style, height, and weight.
Here's what I've done so far.
Taller bars with 20mm risers in the form of an old Scotts sub mount bracket.
adjusted the controls for good position while standing
my favorite handguards, Cycra Probend CRMs
fork springs (pulled from old bike)
shock spring (need some more work on that)
Neutech Tubliss front and rear
Ironman rear sprocket (pulled from old bike, yes they do last forever)
steering head bearings greased
The bars, guards, tubliss, steering head bearings, and sprocket are pretty straight forward.
I've gone through to main fasteners and checked dressing and torque. I pulled the rear axle and adjusters to put a generous coating of anti-seize on the adjuster bolts. This is a must do to prevent bi-metalic corrosion between the steel bolts and aluminum swingarm. An ounce of prevention blah blah blah...
The suspension is the same as the 09/10 KTM 530s so I had a good starting point. I'll have to go lighter than my 03 250 as it has different rear suspension geometry and requires a little heavier springs. As a side note I've also lost over 40 lbs since last riding season so that will push my needs lower too.
I'm not sure what the stock fork spring rate is but they have a preload adjustment so I'll put my .50s in with no preload and see how that performs. If that's too stiff I'll put one .50 and one stock spring in and see what that feels like. Then I can play with the preload on the stock spring and fine tune it. Still might need some new spring to get it zeroed in.
The stock rear spring on the Husaberg is a 7.2 and they say that's for a 165-187 lb rider. The manual says "weight of rider" so I'm making an assumption that it's without gear.
The stock is way too light for me so I started on the rear with a 7.6 The settings are 105 race sag and 35 static sag. I could get the 105 with 10mm (max you want to go) preload but then only had 25mm of static. That tells me I need to go with a heavier spring and less preload to get the static to 35mm. I tried a 8.5 progressive and at 6mm of preload I got 100mm of race and 25mm static. So I'll back the preload off to 4mm or so and see what I get. I'm pretty sure I'll have to go with an 8.0 spring but we'll see.
You have to remove the rear shock to set the preload, kind of a hassle but it's only two bolts and the shock comes out easy without having to remove anything else. After I get it set up it won't be an issue because I won't be adjusting preload very often. Just kind of a PITA on initial setup.
The subframe is a completely new design. It's plastic. So being curious I wanted to pull it off and check it out. It's very strong and very light. It also appears that the engineers had originally intended it to hold fuel as it's made from the same material as the tank and is hollow. Also leading me to believe it's more than coincidence is that the angles and location and type of mounting of the fuel pump will make is very easy to connect a pickup from the subframe to the input of the fuel pump
I've got parts on order to do this and there will be lots of pics. Just so it's clear this wasn't my idea. Lots of people have done it with success, some with failure. In the back of my mind I keep thinking that there is a reason the engineers at Husaburg killed the plan to put fuel in it so hoπefully I don't find out why in a huge ball of flame. 70 Degree Racing makes an awesome subframe tank that is a bolt on replacement for the stock subframe. Unfortunately they aren't yet available so I'm going to play around with the stock one and maybe get lucky.
While the subframe is easy enough to get off it was kind of finicky to get all the electrics back in the tight little pocket. I'm sure it will be easier next time around but I spent a good 30 minutes futzing with it to get it just right. It won't be fun on the side of a trail. I can't think of a single reason I'd need to pull the subframe trailside but you never know.
Here are some pics. Pay particular attention to the tank and airbox setup. All the dark gray plastic is the stock 2.2 gallon tank. The airbox is centered high up inside the tank. Deep water crossings should never be an issue.
Very good fit and finish. KTM quality everywhere. It shares a lot of major sub assemblies with KTM, brakes, valvetrain, suspension, controls, wheels and hubs, transmission, cylinder and piston etc... basically everything but the frame, subframe, engine cases crankshaft con rod etc.., fuel injection, bodywork, and other stuff I can't think of off the top of my head.
Seems really heavy when I push it around the shop. I've heard this from others and the theory is that the 70 degree orientation of the engine puts the bulk of the weight at the center of gravity. I'm not quite sure why that would make it feel heavier when pushing it around but that's the theory. Also noted that as soon as that engine is spinning that feeling of heaviness completely disappears. It handles very well at slow speeds and kind of goes where your thinking. More on this subject as I get some hours on it.
No cam chain noise, yet. Same adjuster as the KTMs so I expect some as the chain breaks in. I've got a Dirt Tricks tensioner in the parts bin that will go in as soon as the engine is broke in.
I'll post more as I get work done and the first dirt ride in.