When I got my moto out of the garage this morning, it kept stalling when I came to a stop, and I was worried about what could have possibly happened to it while just sitting for the last couple of days. I stopped on the edge of town to investigate, but found that it was now Ok. I thought about it a bit, and then recalled the oil change in Acapulco, where they used a “tropical weight” oil. This being the first morning they moto’s been started when there was an actual chill in the air, I figure it’s just the engine bogging down with the added viscosity in the cold morning air and ride out of town.
It was a beautiful ride. If it hadn’t been for all the topes it would have been a near perfect ride on a motorcycle.
I made a stop for lunch at Aguas Azul, where I got hit by the old “double” entrance fee. You stop on the way down and pay a toll of 10 pesos and then get stopped further on and get hit with another entrance fee. I joked with the toll guy whether he was sure there wasn’t another caseta del cobro just up ahead. He assured me this was the last, and I parked my bike in the shade under a tree, and paid some of the local kids to keep an eye on it.
This town had a sign outside the dirt road entering it, stating that you were now in the free and independent Zapatista territories.
The indios along the road to pelenque, would build mud “topes” to slow traffic down so they could sell them whatever they had, be it hand woven clothing, or fresh fruit juices. It kind of freaked me out the first time I saw them also having a rope stretched out across the road, which they then raise up, like a barricade as I approached. In fact I think I actually shouted a curse at that first woman who used the technique as I was tooling along. I went on my way to Pelenque, where I made a wrong turn into el centro and found the clean Hotel Edzna for about $19/night.
The plaza at Pelenque