Originally Posted by ganshert
Yeah your probably right. I ran 12 gauge with a relay and 30A fuse by the battery and an additional 14 gauge wire directly from the battery so I have switched and battery power at the fuse box. I can always nix the fuse box but it sure makes it easy to distribute the power and use a different rated fuse for each device. The GPS is pretty expensive and I wanted to run a 2A fuse for it.
I'll put a horn on it at some point and the existing stock switch provides a ground so all I have to do is run 12V to the other side of the horn and I'm done.
I'm also going to mount a tri color LED that monitors voltage so that will wire right in to the fuse box.
I like my wiring to be tidy so I figured 4 things powered up there off of two wires w/o a distribution panel of some sort would get messy.
I think of fuses more as protection from burning the wiring harness to the ground rather than protecting individual devices... Pretty much the only thing that is going to blow them is chaffing/cutting/accidentally grounding a hot wire (somewhat likely...) or overloading a circuit (not bloody likely with nav gear).
For distribution, first I run to a master Nav switch, then tie in all the feeds to soldered/shrink wrapped/sheathed connections. I like things neat, but also like them simple and am wiling to trade off a bit of cosmetic beauty for simplicity and robustness.... And while I know they do it all the time on race bikes, having many crimped connectors, screw terminals, and lots fuses makes much less sense to me on a rallye bike with dust/dirt/vibration/water, especially with something that is moving back and forth with every turn of the handlebars.
Course it's only my opinion, and I've redone my nav gear mounting and wiring four times already as I am never completely happy with what I set up. Maybe we'll get a chance to admire each others handywork this weekend