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Old 03-05-2005, 12:02 PM   #9
woody's wheel works OP
Built to Last
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Joined: Jun 2004
Location: 39*40'33.86N 104*59'54.69W
Oddometer: 3,449
debunking continued

hi,,,here's some more answers to various questions raised recently,,,,

the mystique regarding repairing /re-building/truing the GS series wheel is WELL deserved....ricardo kuhn and john mc donald wrote a 15 page thesis chronicaling their adventures at trying to true/rebuild these wheels...i can save ya the read by warning you ahead of time that ya are entering a territory that is akin to the giant whirlpools of our oceans...the ones that will suck you down and leave you wandering into ever murkier corners,,,a labyrinth of confusing effects in unexpected locations for every twist of your wrist....CAVEAT EMPTOR!!!

.....AND that's with a straight rim!!!!!! WILL NOT stand a GHOST OF A CHANCE with an even slightly warped/bent rim!!!!!!

yesterday,,,i straightened the front rim of a GS .120" major flat-spot and .090" lateral runout,,,,needless to say his symptoms of shaking handlebars were well founded....6 hours of R&D time at trying various /alternative ways to dealing with the one major (.120") and 5 minor (.080-.020)flat spots on his rim yielded several new techniques at saving your rims and your money,,,,net result....the wheel ran true,,, way under BMW's allowable .060" runout specs at half the cost of a new one

WELD AREA DIVOT...FYI,,,whoever is responsible for grinding down the material at the weld joint on the bead is excessively removing the material at the joint yielding a .020"-.080'' divot on the bead seating surface.....this customer's divot measured .050" !!! and left a tell-tale mark where the tire was seriously trying to fill the divot,,,you could actually see a slight deformation in the sidewalls of the tire in that location,,,, Rx,,some scotchbrite, J&B WELD and a quick spin in our lathe had the bead back where it should have been from the factory,,,,

YES,,,we can make wire wheels tubeless,,,,HOWEVER we only seal rims that have the safety bead on them...all the old rims pre tubeless had much looser specs since the tube was counted on to hold the tire against beads,,, tubeless tire and rim/wheel manufactures agreed to a new international standard including the addition of the safety bead,,,tires have to really pop up and over this bead,,hence the extra energy required at dismounting tubeless tires as many of you may have experienced....PLEASE do not drive over your tires to dismount them,,,,you will only add to my work-load...

YES!!! that is the BMW GS wire wheel assembly machine and its technician that i referred to in my article,,,,don't know how to download it to this spot,,, it was in another thread,,,here's a link to the picture on my website #12/60

NEW for 2012,,,my all new super-duty ss spokes and ss nipples for you heavy duty Adventure riders.....

as well as the ss nipples for all the OEM 3.5mm spokes!!!.....No More rusting ,corroding nipples with 1/8'' =2-3mm of thread showing...thes babies are 3mm longer than oem and stunningly machined.....
will get pics n prices soon

stainless or chrome spokes????,,,,i only use stainless spokes made by buchannans or the factory BMW versions,,,,for any serious rebuilds,,,the chromed ones are only used for rebuilding street versions or low budget patching of the older GS wheels which came with chromed spokes,,,,if ya need shiny,,,we show polish ss spokes for $1each,,,,,main differences,,,chrome has a cold look to it ,,,polished ss looks warm,,,ss spokes won't rust like chrome and the shine remains a long time without much maintenance,,,,NEXT,,,the ss pokes are less brittle than their chromed counterparts,,,something in the chroming process makes them more brittle than the original bare steel ,,,the chromed spokes break under the head and where the threads begin,,, the ss ones usually at the juncture where the thread begins,,,

REPLACING spokes,,preferably do no more than one at a time as advised in your service manual,,,,you MUST take a punch and tap the head of the spoke in order to seat the spoke and then re-torque it or tighten to match the ring of the adjacent spokes,,,your old rim will already have a notch that you should be able to feel when you spin the spoke,,,ALL new rims installed by us have the heads seated in an additional process that is reflected in the higher cost of re-building these wheels

SET/GRUB screws,,,ALL the wheels and parts diagrams i've seen have these little set screws installed,,,,it's these little screws that i didn't know about til the late '90s that thwarted all my earliest attempts at truing these wheels,,,i would bang up against these grub screws without knowing it thinking had bottomed out and there was no more tightening available to me ,,,,frustrated i threw in the towel after 4 days of monkeying around,,once the epiphany hit me that these set screws where there,,,,i revisited these wheels and fiqured out the rest,,,,with all the dirt in the nipple hole it is easy to miss them,,,these screws are so tiny ,,require a 2mm allen,,,and if ya don't want to add to your woes,,,CLEAN out all the dirt embedded in their heads,,,we use dental picks and compressed air and charge you accordingly,,,otherwise you will strip the allen head because the dirt embedded in them doesn't allow your allen wrench to drop in for the required purchase,,,,i personally think that the wheels can survive without them ...IF all the spokes are tight and the heads seated in,,,,,once the spokes get loose however,,,the nipples could start unwinding,,hence BMWs pro-active insurance policy of over engineering thus adding to your safety

here's why i never saw them..the grub-screws..thanks poolside for pics..

woody's wheel works screwed with this post 03-02-2015 at 09:53 PM Reason: correction
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