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Old 08-22-2010, 02:30 AM   #3
Box'a'bits OP
In need of repair
Box'a'bits's Avatar
Joined: Sep 2008
Location: Wellington, New Zealand
Oddometer: 2,393
Gus's History:
I purchased Gus from Rob in Whangamomana. Gus has done some miles - 198k kms (or 124k miles). First registered in 1991, & owned by BMW as a demo, then through two Rental Cos. Then 3 private owners: a father & son; then Rob. In the two years of Rental Co ownership, they racked up 160k, which I take to be a good thing. Hopefully long miles, & regular servicing. Maybe mature renters.

Initial Impressions
Looks-wise, Gus is almost a twin of Padmei’s R80GS, but is the R100 variant. Given the mileage there is some damage, but nothing that time, patience & money can’t fix.

Rob used the bike for adventure riding, and had a heavy fall on the right side at some point. He’s repainted the crash bars, but not the right rocker box cover, which is very battle scarred. He demolished the screen too. There is a dent in the right top of the tank, which might pop out with a bit of air pressure. He had made an engine bashplate, a new screen (clear Perspex, well shaped), & also a new stainless collector box (now well dented – no rear bashplate). He’s replaced the alternator rotor & the timing chain. No other history provided.

I have ridden him a grand total of about 100 meters, from Rob’s garage to the trailer, & from my trailer into my garage.

The shock seems ‘tired’. There is some rust starting on the left fork leg, between the triple clamps. The neutral light doesn’t work. The oil pressure switch seems like it has a seep. Oil weep near the sump gasket. The rear light has been broken & glued. The rear indicators have been replaced with smaller variants. The rear subframe paint has suffered from Rob’s top box (removed at sale). The swingarm / frame boot is perished.

The motor (on start up) was one of the quietest I have ever encountered (but an indication of valve lash being too tight). Idle was smooth. No noticeable issues with the driveshaft or gearbox. Tank shows some overspray. Repainted crashbars already mentioned. Tyres looks good in the Trademe pictures, but are actually munted. Rob sure enjoyed those corners round Whanga…

First job – valves
Intially I was really pleased with the color of the left plug. But the right side wasn't as good, & investigation showed the left carb to head rubber wasn't done up - so the jug was lean as a result of the air leak. Things that make you go 'Hmmmm'.

Adjusting valves are really a piece of cake BUT… someone has been over enthusiastic with the locknut on the left side. I’ll replace. Also the rocker cover central stud. I see this has already been helicoiled once. Also while I’m down there someone has bent the fins on the exhaust nuts trying to get the nuts off. I’ll need to replace that.

The Exhaust Nut doesn't look too bad in this photo, but that's because I've already managed to roll it 45 degrees. Believe me, its very sad. To the extent that the exhaust nut spanner doesn't fit anymore. Butchery

Endurolast Alternator
I bought this for the RS because I got tired of the limitations of the stock system. Here's a link to the Enduralast site.

On the stock system, I'm up to my third rotor, & second diode board replacement. I’d upgraded the mechanical regulator in London to deal with a commute I was doing, & had also upgraded the wiring.

I’ve now swapped the Enduralast across to the Gus. The stock system will go on the RS.

Starter Motor:
Valeo starter motors have a reputation for the magnets becoming un-glued. Also, sometimes they become noisy when they don't disengage immediately from the flywheel. I already had the starter motor out, so I decided to pull it apart to clean it up as much as possible. There is a lot of good info at Joergs website & also Anton Largiarder's. Stephen Bottcher actually epoxied between his magnets, so that if the glue on one failed, it would be held in by the others.

The 1st photo shows the top of the starter motor off. The 2nd has the actual motor detached, & the solenoid not yet disassembled. Basically I just cleaned & reassembled.

Unfortunately when I bolted the starter on the block, I managed to drop a nut down into the flywheel area (it was already in a socket I was about to use - who put that there?...). Oh well, I needed to do the clutch splines anyway!!. And the neutral switch isn't working, and the easiest way to fix it is to drop the gearbox..
My '91 R100GS thread is here
My Ride photos are here

It's just better when there's twins involved....

Box'a'bits screwed with this post 11-11-2011 at 02:36 PM Reason: Restructuring opening page
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