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Old 08-29-2010, 02:41 AM   #7
randel OP
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Joined: Jan 2006
Location: Mattighofen
Oddometer: 317
Day 2 started quite late. Nice view to the bay of lake Ladoga.

After breakfast Päärn did some filter cleaning exercises.

Manager arrived with a good old tractor.

One week before we came there was a severe thunderstorm and forests were full of broken trees, roads were just cleaned from trees. They didn't have electricity already 10 days and had no idea when it will be switched on again.
We have strong plans for today, around 500km on small roads. We planned to avoid St.Petersburg - Murmansk highway as long as possible. If everything goes as planned, we should arrive Muezerskii today.
Nice roads and nice lineup, cruising along Ladoga coast.

Signs from thunderstorm

Asphalt turns again to nice gravel soon

It's time to put on camcorder and get some footage. Unfortunately my camcorder broke down after trip so videos from our trip will come a bit later.

All villages look the same

What does a sander on a gravel road in summer? We have no idea.

Fuel prices were pleasantly low, around 0.60 Euros for a liter.

There were also some bigger cities

We saw local funerals. A coffin in a van and people walking behind it.

Anton bought some unknown milk drink from local store. It smelled badly and tasted even worse. Only the bravest from us could drink it.

Anton's Dakar chain needed tightening. Some preparation not done properly?

Well, it didn't take long and we were ready to hit roads again. We were quite concerned while it was already afternoon and we had 300km more to go today. Meanwhile some more soviet architecture.

It was time to turn north, away from Ladoga. We need to refuel while no more fuel for next few hundred km's. Russian SUV UAZ, these are right vehicles for russian roads.

Somebody has practiced welding obviously. Doesn't look to too good, but works

Erik was complaining about his Dakar handling on gravel and let out some air from tires. Evaluating tire pressure only by his hearing. Now we have 100km stretch of gravel before arriving next village.

Road is covered with loose stones and some sharp rocks sticking out of road surface. Those rocks hit tires hard and as you can predict, soon enough Erik's front tire was flat. He's having bad luck with tires all the time so it's not sure higher pressure could have helped him.

Improvised center stand was quickly made and tire repair can start.

Competent mechanics and good tools - no problems with repair.

During wheel repair Juho discovered, that his GS mudguard was just leaving the bike. It was just beginning. Later we could rally saw how russian roads are much stronger than german engineering

Stronger bumps on the road made GS top box come off from base plate and only safety strap Juho has installed previously prevented top box to fall off.

100km further north, 170km more to go in Suojärvi. Let's get some food and drinks for evening...

Local streetfighters having a party.

I have more money than my neighbours!

Public transport

You should expect some surprises on the road while driving.

As we continued, road conditions were going worse again. More and bigger rocks, tighter bends, sand. Erik was more worried about his tires. All of this slowed us down to average speed 50-60km/h. Next village was Porosozero and we hope to refuel there as no more fuel was available for god knows how many next km's.

No, we don't have fuel station here. Somebody should have a fuel in jerrycans, but what kind of fuel? How many liters? It was time to decide, what to do. Some of us were really tired already.

I need to refuel, 200km since last refuel.

And some planning - no fuel station signs on the map, villages are small, road condition are going even worse, time is ticking and we should drive another 500km next day. On those roads? Khmm....

Decision was tough, but reasonable. We should turn to Murmansk "highway" to cover more miles tomorrow and to be on schedule. We started looking for today's campsite. During this Päärn's KTM lost his balance again Worn Pirelli Scorpion front tire didn't help too.

We talked with two fisherman and they suggested us a nice place.

We have a campsite, we are almost on schedule and life is beautiful .
Now let's evening actions begin

We bought a special vodka for today. It's named "Putinka" after russian prime minister Putin. Sure we were as smart as he after drinking this

After some more vodka we looked like this

And when some of us (me...) were already sleeping we got some quests. Those two fishermans ho suggested us a place walk a mile through the night to invite us to join with them in their camp. We were quite concerned as both of them had long knifes and definately are they not sober. But hell, let's go and see what happens. And sure they showed us real russian hospitality and offered us delicious food with (of course!) vodka. They both were from Moscow on vacation to catch some fish. We talked with them 'till early morning until we walk back to our camp to get some sleep.

Beyond clouds 2011
Beyond arctic circle 2010

randel screwed with this post 08-29-2010 at 02:46 AM
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