Originally Posted by Country Doc
Good stuff Ned. If/when you get a chance to post up your quick "how-to" on the top-end rebuild I (and likely many others) would be MOST grateful!
OK, here goes with the quick and dirty.
I'm not an expert on engine work, so I find it stressful. The key for me doing this kind of work is to take my time, never use any force on anything, and be ready to just step away and come back if things are going my way. In this case, everything did and it was easy, but that's not always the case.
Step 1: clean the environment so that no dirt goes in the open motor.
I powerwashed mine with the tank off using plenty of simple green, then I sprayed some WD-40 on the whole frame/ wiring harness/ over the motor area on the theory that any remaining dirt would be less likely to drop off if held by something. YMMV.
Step 2: Make space.
For the head to come out, you need to remove the radiators, head pipe, carb, etc. Here's the order I did it in, pics are a little scarce of the stuff I thought was basic:
1) Drain Coolant: on the waterpump, there's one bolt with a copper washer beneath. Pull it out (it will only drip until you crack the rad cap), position your catch container, and then pull the radiator cap.
2) Remove radiators... simple unbolting and set aside carefully. You also need to remove the R/S thermostat/ center hose assembly.
3) Remove silencer, then pull springs and bolt near kick start and pull head pipe forward. You can remove entirely but it's not necessary.
4) Make space with Carb: there's a bunch of ways to do this. I pulled the rubber boot from the airbox (see pic below) so that the carb could slide back. You can also tilt up the subframe, and you can also just wrestle the carb out of there. My method is pretty easy, so I recommend it. Pop off the rubber intake manifold, too. In any event, you need at least an inch and mabye 2 between the front of the carb and the back of the engine.
5) Remove the valve cover (as you would for a valve inspection).
Now you've got your working area.
Step 3: Disassemble
Make a space on a countertop and lay down some shop towels, so that you can pull things out and arrange them in the orientation they came off in. Give yourself plenty of room...
1) Lock at Top Dead Center on the power stroke. Both valves should be shut, check your clearances quickly so that you can get shims if needed. To lock the motor there, pull the bolt with the thick copper washer out on the Right side of the motor, remove the washer, and wind it into the groove on the crank @ TDC.
2) Remove lifters, as you would to change a shim. That requires pulling out the plugs on the right side of the head, pulling out the vertical bolts that pass through the lifter rod, and sliding the rod out to free the lifter.
Note: The lifter rod (not sure what else to call it) is not symmetrical- note how it comes out and put it back that way.
Note 2: On 08 530s, you may need to cut the frame if you've never changed a shim... see instructions elsewhere, just making a side note here.
Note 3: You may as well pull your shims out right here, and put them somewhere labeled so you can reinstall them where they came from.
3) Remove the CCT. Easy as pie, back out the small cover, then the big one, and pull out the CCT carefully getting both a very small O-ring and also a larger one. The cam chain should now have slack, verify with your finger.
4) Remove the cam retainer:
Now the cam will slide to the left, drop down once the race clears the roller bearing, allowing you to lift the chain off, and you can set the cam aside. Take a longish piece of safety wire and wrap it around the cam chain so you have a way to handle it without dropping it into the cases.
5) Remove head bolts:
Start with the little hidden 8mm that you can see in this picture:
And then go for the actual bolts that tighten the head onto they cylinder into the cases, which are the monsters. IIRC they are an 8mm allen head... my personal method is to crack them just a small amount in a criss-cross pattern, until they are all loose, then wind them out. That way, there isn't a ton of force on one side of the head and none on the other, which seems like a good way to warp something. You'll tighten this way, too, but I always take them out that way which may be unnecessary.
6) Now you're ready to pull the head out of the frame. It takes some doing, it will be angled up on the left and as far back as you can get it toward the clutch cable when it comes free.
7) Even if you don't need to work on the cylinder, you should probably put in a fresh base gasket now that you've taken the pressure off everything, and I threw in fresh rings even though that might not have been necessary. That means the cylinder has to come out.
Getting it out is easy, you'll just pull up and slide it off the piston. Mine didn't want to move and took a little convincing... the trick is getting it back over the rings, but we aren't there yet.
Resist the urge to touch the piston, you can knock carbon into the motor and set yourself back.
Now your bike is here:
Looking pretty impotent.
For the head, I gave mine to a buddy who does this stuff for a living. He cleaned everything up, and installed new valve seals. It's not hard if you have a valve spring compressor, it's standard stuff so I'm not going to cover that in depth here.
I would note that one intake valve seal was off, and the other one required next to no pressure to remove. The exhausts were on firmly, but the valves themselves had oil residue on the shaft and were a bit sticky to move. Long story short, I recommend having someone with a parts washer get all the oil residue out, all the carbon cleaned up, and etc.
Your shop should charge you an hour if you bring them the head to pull the valves, drop the head in the parts washer for a while, and then reassemble with new seals. They will know this, but make sure all the parts go back where they came from- valves wear in and you can't swap them around, and you may as well keep all the retainers and springs in their homes too.