Originally Posted by burntflan
Thanks for all the advice. I've tried pretty much everything except for the SS spokes and the blueprinting, and will consider superlacing. I'm still not convincd the squeal and spokes are unrelated, .....
Question for Woody. All the broken spokes seem to on the rotor side.
Is that an indication of anything? That last time I had the wheel off I tried a little experiment and slightly overtorqued the opposite side and did the rotor side just at spec. It seems to have worked so far. Am I just spitting in the wind? Or am I on to something?
Also, if you don't mind another one, what do you consider to be acceptable run-out. I know a lot of threads say 1/8" but that seems like way too much. When I'm lucky I can get it to 1/100 side-to-side and 1/50 up and down
FYI...we can save you money by recycling as many of the components in your wheel that are worthy of being used again...for example:
.. the ktm 950 adventure front wheel has super soft BEHR rims that wad up,,,the spokes are ok,,,so low budget upgrade would be to replace the rim with an excel,sun or akront,,,alot of the rear ktm wheels had DID rims that would crack at the nipples and almost all had /have severe spoke breakage problems,,,now you tell me of the 640 and its tendency to snap spokes... and i will say replace em with ss equivalents for an improvement....BUT if ya don't want to have this conversation again...SUPERLACE it and be done with it
the cost difference between the two techniques is less than $40...you just can not replicate the work and know how i put into a SUPERLACE for the $40 difference
1..regarding the a-ha s you are having,,,correlations i've observed over the years....
a) spokes break that have too high a tensile strength to them
b) chrome spokes break more than any others
c)loose spokes break quicker than tight ones
d)wrong spoke patterns for your riding style contribute to
e)the spokes that transfer the energy from the hub to the rim during hard acceleration and severe braking...ie the max load transfering spokes break before the others
f)soft hubs/rims,,sag and loosen your spokes and are the culprits behind mysterious unexplicable wheel failures
2..regarding run-out...all street/roadrace machines leave with runout less than +/- .010 laterally and longtitudinally,,,,dual-sport/mx +/- .015...
on used hammered dirt bike wheels that never go on the road. we will allow +/- .025.......you can get by with +/-.100.even!!!!..the earth and big knobbies are very forgiving and don't give much feedback to the rider,,,as evidenced by most dirt-riders never noticing how out of wack their wheels are...get on the road and ya start to notice the difference quicker
FYI...the more road oriented your dual sport tires are the quicker you will notice any deviations greater than +/-.020''