I like my Pro Taper CR High Bend. But handlebar and Riser height is purely the riders choice. Make sure your position/bar height works while standing ... IF you want comfort/control off road. Stock steel bars are good but can bend in a crash. Pro Taper bars (Alu) absorb vibration better than stock. Bar end weights not needed.
A WORD ON ERGONOMICS:
Many riders do not set up their bars and levers for max comfort. Poorly set lever can cause numbness and even Carpal Tunnel syndrome. It is important to adjust levers so that wrists do not bend much ... but stay straight and relatively flat. Most riders have their levers set UP too high. This puts a bend in your wrist, especially when standing up off road. Not good.
- FOOTPEGS/FOOTPEG LOWERING:
Wide pegs are nice off road when standing. I have used the IMS pegs but am using stock on the DR. NOTE: Early DR pegs are narrower than later ones.
No comments on lowering pegs.
- GRIPS/HEATED GRIPS
I use Symtec heated Grips. About $35 at most vendors. They draw about 24 watts. Very nice!
- THROTTLE TUBES
I use Stock cables. Most know that the old throttle grip will NOT come off. Buy a new throttle tube if changing bars or doing Heated Grips. No other way.
I always carry a spare set of Suzuki levers on my bike. I also use Bark Busters to help protect the levers, master cylinder and .... most important ... my hands! Without Bark Busters levers are easily broken ... even in a minor tip over.
Brake Pedal and Shifter protection:
I run a thin safety cable lanyard on my shifter and brake cable, from the lever tip to the frame. This is an old Enduro riders' trick. Easy to do, will save your shifter or rear brake lever from being torn off when riding off road. Cheap insurance, easy to rig up your self.
All stock. I only run Suzuki cables.
No comments here.