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Old 11-14-2010, 08:53 AM   #212
JMo (& piglet) OP
Dakar Dazed
 
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Joined: Apr 2007
Location: Somewhere west of Laramie...
Oddometer: 3,173
Things we have learnt this weekend...

1. The is a bastard hidden screw behind the starter motor torque limiter, which you need to pull out and remove the bolt, before you can get the left hand engine case off a WR (ok, RTFM)...

2. The torx bolts that hold the stock stator in place are made of cheese.

3. The Trail-Tech Stator and reg/rec upgrade coverts the whole bike to DC (no separate AC circuit for the headlight anymore) - I realized this when I turned the ignition on, and the headlight came on without the engine running!

I presume this is an 'upgrade' and that the full 100+W goes into the battery now... previously, the headlight (35W) ran off the AC, and the rest was converted to DC for the battery etc. However, the stock WR stator is 120W, so that would mean around 85W was DC? - certainly the stock reg/rec is tiny - but my concern is I'm still not getting enough juice to run the HID when the headlight is also on, and the fan... because:

4. Even though I meticulously wired the HID using a separate loom and switch and everything... it has trouble firing up sometimes (comes on momentarily, then cuts out) and also, once it is running, if you blip the throttle with the engine running, the HID cuts out (and doesn't come back on). I don;t suppose anyone has any ideas? - I'm about to go and pull it all off the WR and hook it up to the Tenere to ascertain if it is the HID set (either a dodgy ballast or relay perhaps?), or if my weedy little WR can't cope with all it's bright manliness...

5. Staying up until 1.30am, drinking beer and inhaling exhaust fumes, is really not very good for you. I have felt sick all day today.

6. It is bloody cold in Wales at this time of the year - yep, I took the WR for a test ride today:



And it ran faultlessly (and felt great - no need to mess with anything I feel), other than the bloody HID, that, even with a full charge in he battery, cuts out as soon as you rev the engine - gaaaaaaaaah!

So, while I go and curse in the shed, a few more photos of some details:

That lovely set of water tanks by GMX (fitted to a Flatland Racing bashplate):


The wiring complete, all bar the GPS aerials and Speedocap unit that is in the post (from France):


I also have to cable-wrap the remote wires once the IMO sensor cable is refitted...

The fuel line routing - looks convoluted, but there is method in the madness:


The two-way tap on the subframe selects either front or rear tanks, and the fuel then goes through a single filter, into the vacuum pump, and into the carb. The hose from the centre (aluminium) tank also has it's own tap, so I can isolate it and use it as a final back-up reserve - which means I can have just the front (pair) main tanks (20L), just the rear tank (5L) or the rear and the centre tank together (10L). It's interesting that like the front tanks self- balance (as they are joined together before the fuel tap), so too if you turn on the centre tank, it fills up the rear tank again until it reaches a level...

This could work in my favor, as in sand it's possible to use the front tanks first, keeping the weight over the rear, and then once I start using the rear, can keep it topped up with the extra 5L in the centre tank - result!

Still doesn't make my bloody HID work properly though does it!!!

J x
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