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Old 11-14-2010, 01:48 PM   #229
JMo (& piglet) OP
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Joined: Apr 2007
Location: Somewhere west of Laramie...
Oddometer: 3,099
Quote:
Originally Posted by schattat
Jenny, I'd be careful if I were you!

In general, 12V batteries require a charging voltage of somewhere between 13-14V
Don't worry, it's kicking out a solid 13+V with the Xenon and the 35w main beam on at the same time... although when I was testing it with everything on in the garage last night, it seems to read only about 12.8V, but that wasn't revving it hard, as I was worried about gassing myself (and waking the neighbours!) - I need to wire up a meter and test it on the road really?

Quote:
In this scenario, whilst the bike is running, the power needed to run all your equipment will come directly from your stator and your battery will just be left unattended, therefore not getting sufficient charge energy. This means after stalling the bike a few times there won't be enough juice to start the engine.
Yes, I understand what you're saying - Neil said the same thing (regarding the problems he had with his bike in Brazil) - he suggested taking it for a long run with everything running (I tried to do that today of course but the HID kept cutting out...) and see if the battery is holding a charge - that's what I was doing in the photo above (with the seat off)...

I must say, I'll be narked if it isn't charging the battery as well as running the gear, as Trail Tech said there would be enough juice from their stator set-up to run both the lights and the fan (the nav gear is pretty negligible really, although I guess the roadbook motor takes a bit?)

Of course I could just disconnect the low beam (ideally with a switch as you say) if it turns out there is not enough juice... worst case scenario would be at night stuck in sand when you might need the fan on... but you can always stop and let the bike cool down I guess? and to be honest, you probably wouldn't need the HID if you were stuck/at slow speed?

But I agree, everything SHOULD work TOGETHER ideally.

Quote:
Another issue I see is that the lights still running with the engine shut off. With a dead cold bike (and equipment), by turning on the ignition the lights, especially the HID one, will suck a gigantic amount of power from the battery (a good 7A ) an this for about half a minute. In that time when you try to button start the bike, the voltage of your battery will drop drastically, thus not allowing the starter motor to turn fast enough. Perhaps putting a toggle switch for your lights will prevent this?

Yes, I see what you're saying there - my HID is switched independently, so I wouldn't have that on when trying to start the bike, only once it's running. But as you suggest, it may be that I have to incorporate a switch for the regular 35w light too.

Have you had several start attempts on the bike (especially dead cold ones), yet?
It didn't have a lot of juice available first thing this morning, but then I had been running all the electrics and messing about with the HID last night so I'd probably run it down too low?

After the run today I left it for an hour or so, and it fired right up (in fact it fired right up at the petrol station 5 minutes down the road this morning) but as I say, I've not had a chance to run it with both lights going yet - tomorrow hopefully!

Out of interest, when the HID is on, it seems to suck about 0.5V at idle - would this be about right (in whatever the amps/watts/volts relationship is?)

I really appreciate all your knowledge on this!

J x

JMo (& piglet) screwed with this post 11-14-2010 at 02:03 PM
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