Great ride report
Although I am confused, you planned to just wing it, pack light and try to really experience India. You decided to rent known unreliable bikes, and then seem surprised that they really are POS's.
I presume by the foreshadowing that something really bad happens to the bike.....
On the bright side, you seem to have met some amazing local people and experienced them in ways not usually experienced by westerners; been invited to sit in their shops, drink their chai, get drunk and flog an old bike apart by moonlight, commiserate with them about the shady guy who rented the bike to you, and were able to make major repairs for less than $16 dollars so far. You got accepted into their shop as an equal, not just a western "mark" and enjoyed some local street food without getting sick. You have been surrounded by amazing sights and sounds, some unbelievable landscapes and escaped death probably a thousand times in those few hundred kilometers....that sounds to me like a true adventure...and exactly the kind of trip I'd love!! Overcoming adversity and being welcomed as a traveler...not a tourist
If you had been in a new car, or totally reliable motorcycle, you would have covered many more miles, but you would not have met any of those people that have left an indelible mark on you...and I seriously doubt you would have had such an authentic, Indian adventure. I can't wait to see what else happens and read how you got through it with the help of...and in spite of, the locals. If everything went smoothly, it would have been a vacation...not an Adventure!! Cheers!!