I went with the Wolfman side racks, Expedition saddle bags, and a Pat Walsh Designs tail rack. A few pics of the install...
Remove stock grab handles or factory rack
The stock indicators install right onto the PWD tail rack (slightly higher location, as well) and the tail rack is mounted inside the Wolfman side racks, I added the washer between them to help prevent the pieces from scrubbing the powder coat off of one another
All bolted up and ready to go
I like the flat plate-style racks over bent-tube and bar racks for the rear. It seems much easier to drill and bolt stuff to when needed. With mine, I have a spare Givi mounting plate for a top box that I utilize for commuter-duty, and for longer hauls or off-the-beaten-track excursions I bent a piece of scrap alum into an L-bracket so that I can mount my Kolpin 1.5gal fuel can vertically and still have space on the tail rack for a duffel.