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Old 02-17-2011, 09:16 PM   #59
bluebye
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Joined: Mar 2004
Location: 'neckville is where you hang your hat, Rolling
Oddometer: 1,438
Quote:
Originally Posted by hardwaregrrl View Post
Oh geez....



I'd say it's toast! Yeah, the piston is really scored, but I'm not sure what to do about the jug?



There is only a couple of places you can actually feel any of the scoring you see here. But otherwise, it is very smooth. So I don't know if I should just get it honed, or go 1 over?

This concerns me too...



Doesn't look like a rat chewed on it, but, I'm hoping the bottom end is ok?

So, I've located a few cylinder heads that the owners claim to be smooth. If there is just a tad of scoring on the head, does it need to be bored one over, or honed, or plug it and run it?! Obviously I'll be getting piston and rings. What say you oh 2-stroke geniuses. Oh, one more thing, I was only able to find synthetic 2-stroke injector oil. How bad is that? Do I have to run mineral?







Hey Brad, I left my beer hiding jacket at your place. Don't use it as a shop rag!!!!!

Oh, who hones/bores cylinder heads out in Atlanta?
Ok, a couple of things here. That hard of piston seizure is lack of oil. The piston has seized to the cylinder at one or more times causing the damage. Find out why there was a lack of oil to the top end or it will do it again. It was probaly ran out of oil and someone poured some in the tank after seizure. The system has to be bled now to work correctly. Procedure in S/M. Judging by the size of the chamfer in the top of the bore, it is std. and will need .50mm to clean up. If the cylinder is at MSP (my shit's perfect good guys) and Roger Baby is still there, talk to him about all this, he knows two strokes as well as anyone there is. The piston crown shows detonation, is the air filter intact and sealing well? Filter, box, and boots. Very important. Doesn't look like timing (advanced) to me, as the points wear and retard the timing. Air leak from somewhere is the cause, above mentioned parts or the mag seal on the crank. If you can come up with a flywheel puller and correctly remove the flywheel from the crank, you may see some tracks of mung and drool from the crank seal. You do not have to split the cases to replace this one, but if it leaking, it will kill your new top end. Beware of the high or erratic idle you cannot correct, with the card and top end and timing correct,as this is the sign of an air leak. Usual carb jets cleanliness,cap sealing apply. At these miles on the bike, the exhaust has issues to be addressed after the above is all correct. Two stokes are simple, but EVERYTHING has to simply work. You will love it. Chris.
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