Why is there a canister?
EPA requirements require gasoline vapour to pass through charcoal canister to be scrubbed.
Why is it on my bike?
Bikes brought into North America have the canisters. Canadian bikes have them because the US ones do.
Why get rid of it?
For some it's the aesthetic. For others it's equipment fitment as you can't install some aftermarket tanks with the canister in place. Functional reason is that it can hold moisture or fill with water in a drop and choke your bike leading to stalling issues/inoperability. Lastly, some FI maps may not even sense it hence there's no point for it (I'm not 100% sure on which ones).
I took it off because I could and because I needed the space for the RR tanks.
Take off the right-hand side (RHS) and rear fender body panels and you will see the large black plastic box with lots of tubing. The intimidating tubing aside, this is an easy fix.
There are several methods to do this. I will discuss two of them. The partial canisterectomy involves no soldering while the total canisterectomy does. Judge your soldering skills accordingly.
The tubing scavenges vapour at the gas cap and feeds that to the canister which is then connected to an electronic valve assembly and then to the throttle body.
Start by removing the gas cap and you will find the tubing attached.
Disconnect the tubing. If you plan on keeping your gas cap, you can attach a standard one-way valve in any configuration to that gas-cap nipple. If you plan on replacing it, you will be installing an aftermarket cap with one-way vent anyhow. The tank must vent as this is the only place to allow room for expansion of air due to temperature or volume changes.
I waved goodbye to the original gas cap and put on a billet filler neck from Renazco Racing and topped it off with a KTM one-way valve.
Once disconnected, pull the tubing through the frame to the canister. Take the canister off the frame by undoing the awkward bolts behind it. Gravity will pull it out of the way and you then follow the tubing to the valve assembly - in the centre of the pic.
Unplug the tubing connected on one end to the canister from the valve assembly. The empty nipple will rotate and can be removed to reveal a larger opening. Either one can be plugged/capped with a 1/4" ID vacuum cap (rubber cap) and a zip-tie or one of the removed spring clips.
If you don't want to mess with taking the airbox off or doing soldering, this is the quick fix. You're done.
If you want to convert the partial to a total canisterectomy at the same time or down the road, you will need another 1/4" vacuum cap and will also have to wire into the valve circuit a 22K Ohm 1/4 watt resistor - hence the soldering.
Remove the valve assembly off the frame and unplug it from the bike. Disconnect the tubing attached to the throttle body seen here.
Plug it with a 1/4" ID vacuum cap cut down to size.
Now that the rubber and plastic is all gone, you'll have to fool the system into thinking the valve is still there. Cut off the plug and include a 22K Ohm 1/4w resistor inline. Polarity does not matter, essentially you are connecting the two wires with a resistor.
The resistors often come in a variety pack - making it tough to find the one you need.
You can identify the one you need because it is marked (red)(red)(orange)(gold) meaning (20)(2)(x1000 Ohm)(5% variance).
Once soldered to some wire, I folded it being careful not to fold too close to the resistor, and sealed it with multiple layers of adhesive shrink wrap. I also added quick-disconnects to make reversal to stock easier.
Once connected to the bike wires where I cut off the original plug, I wrapped it in electrical tape and zip-tied it to the frame in a secure spot.
Now start the bike and look for the flashing FI light - it shouldn't flash. All done.