If you managed to buy these when they are not backordered or sold out you're a lucky guy. Now you get to start saving for fuel to fill them up.
Ron at KTM Twins was absolutely excellent about getting these to us. We ordered two sets in black and two sets in natural. I like mine natural as I can clearly see the fuel - and they match the bike.
The install instructions are pretty rudimentary and sometimes gloss over parts of the install or are missing pictures. I'm going to post things that we thought could trip you up or would have been nice to know ahead of time. Take lots of 'before' pictures so if you can't remember where something went, you have a point of reference.
Best to start with the bike totally naked.
If you haven't done so, you will need to perform some version of the canisterectomy as the space for the canister will shortly be occupied with fuel.
First section involves the electrics. The voltage regulator has to be relocated onto the bracket RR provides. You will need to file/sand the frame tabs that used to hold the ignition coil to enable clean electrical contact/ground. Also pay attention to the orientation of the voltage regulator once mounted on the RR bracket. The ignition coil mounts on the same bracket. Choosing a clear path and orientation for all the wiring associated with the ignition coil and voltage regulator will make a difference in how clean and contained your install is.
Lots of wiring to contend with.
I ran the voltage regulator and ignition coil wiring over and behind the bracket. The bracket has a natural cut-out there that I though would work well for the purpose. To avoid wear on the wiring from the metal, I used a small piece of plastic door trim to protect the wiring.
Also, because I was running the ignition coil wiring behind the mount and was worried about the two bolts on the mount wearing down the wiring I used two 1/4" ID vacuum plugs to cover the exposed bolts and protect the wiring. You can just make out the rubber cap shadows in the photo above.
Once the wiring is in place, you'll need to route it along the frame - another great reason to have the airbox out.
Next-up is the fuel pump. You will need to access the fuel pump which is at the bottom of the tank. I happened to be swapping out the upper and lower tank bolts anyway so flipping the tank up was the natural choice. Getafix didn't realize this and did the install by removing the rear tire - that must have sucked.
You should siphon out as much fuel as you can out of the tank to prevent a gasoline shower. However, by tipping the tank up like this, you can safely have a small amount of fuel in there. Just be sure to have a safety strap as above to prevent the thing from falling on your head. When you undo the four bolts and take the assembly out you will notice two clips in the sides of the assembly which secure the pump inside. Release them so you can take the pump out. Inspect your pump.
My pump has ZERO kilometers on it and the prefilter is covered with this gunk. I took it off and washed it clean. Whatever gunk I found past the filter I picked out as well. I don't know if this is simply old fuel or what - thoughts of pump failure rang out loud. The hoses also dried with a bunch of white residue on them which I brushed off with an old tooth brush. Again, not sure what this crap was but it wasn't pretty.
Modification of the pump housing is straightforward and two holes are easily drilled through the plastic to allow more fuel to the pump. The billet spacer block provided that routes accessory fuel into the main tank serves as a template for one of the holes to be drilled. Be careful putting everything back in. I placed it all in with the help of a twist. Instead of just jamming it in there and hoping it doesn't kink, I twisted/spun it in so it would coil rather than kink. Tighten the bolts. DO NOT lower the tank unless you have somehow prevented the fuel from flowing out of the newly created connecting - don't ask me how I know. I connected the fuel line (in the OFF) position to the new inlet to prevent the free flow. Further routing would be done later and is simple - avoid kinks and potential points of wear-through.
Following step is positioning of the tanks on the frame. For this you remove the original black 'air breather' in the frame with a smaller RR one to make room. The side tanks are attached to the frame by way of skewers that you mount. In my opinion, mounting the tanks is the most crucial step of this entire install. The relief in the tanks into which the frame and parts should fit is more of a gentle suggestion than an exact replica so it's not a 'LEGO' type fit. I positioned the tanks onto loose skewers and once happy with the fit to the frame, I would tighten the skewers by hand, then by tool. These things will stay as you put for the life of the tanks so getting them right is key.
They way you hang those tanks will also affect how your body panels mount. The forward mount is easy because you drill the body panel to make it fit. The upper mount relies on the plastics fitting into grooves a tank-mounted bracket. If your install is off, the panels barely fit into the grooves and thus are able to slip out and flap with ease.
Here is a shot that partially captures the skewer in question.
Lastly, the brackets that retain the upper body panels can be seen here, albeit from a distance. The two grooves there should theoretically line up with the two plastic tabs on the upper side fairing. Unfortunately, because of the way the tanks fit individually, these may be off - sometimes by a lot, sometimes by a little. Getafix used the plastic edge protection in the bracket to narrow the grooves and hold the plastic better. My plan is to redo them completely in aluminum stock and have a more secure fit.
Look closely on the fuel tank. You can see the bracket in question (the one with the arrow in it). You can also make out a threaded insert at the very nose of the tank for affixing the upper panel. Lastly, you can see two M6 screws in the two threaded inserts in the tank. These M6 inserts have no clear reason and can probably be used to affix small farkles.
When drilling the upper fairings for their mounting holes. Put the little screw into the threaded insert (most forward one on the side of the tank) and once you're happy with placement, press the plastic against the screw. It will leave an imprint that marks where you need your hole. Now, you can drill a pilot hole there and come in from the other side (because of the decals) for the final hole. I can't remember what they say as the drilling size in the instructions, but it's wrong. The hole you need is more like a 27/64 so I think I drilled a 13/32 and pushed it in with a slight bit of effort.
When I get to making the bracket, I'll add it here.
- After about a 1,000 offroad miles, I've made a few observations. The threaded inserts that attach the leading edge of the fairing are quite easy to torque out. Had to fix one already with super glue.
- As the tanks make snug contact with the frame, they can easily rub the paint away to the raw metal. I'm going to try and source some of that protective 3M clear vinyl they use on cars to create a thin protective barrier between the two surfaces.
- Rescuing others who ran out of fuel is easy with the way things are connected and bleeding one of the front tanks is a snap with some pliers for the ring clip and you can bend/kink the hose to change the amount of flow through it.
- The Rally Raid quick disconnects are great - when they are working. I'm not sure if it's a batch issue but so far 3 out of 6 tested leak from a little to a lot. Getafix got a replacement to tie him over from Ron at KTM Twins and eventually got the proper self-sealing replacement from Rally Raid with no fuss. Great to know these people stand behind their product.
- Having clear tanks provides a very easy visual method of determining gas volume - no guessing.
- Gas has to flow through 1/4" tubing so it takes a bit of time to transfer the fuel by gravity into the main tank.
- The extra weight over the front wheel can be nice in loose terrain.
- The extra girth is noticeable but you get used to it very quickly.
- The tanks need a bit of foam padding here and there to limit the rattling and abrasion of the body panel.
- The panels stay on snug if you use some car door edge trim to link the inner sides of the metal bracket making the fit of the body panels much more secure.
- I may end up using some old innertube to provide a barrier between some frame/guard points and the tanks. I worry that their softish plastic can be susceptible to wear-through.