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Old 04-27-2011, 07:45 AM   #92
Ian B OP
Fairing Manufacturer
 
Joined: Oct 2004
Location: BC
Oddometer: 574
Quote:
Originally Posted by pottsygs View Post
Having installed my new fairing I wanted to share a few comments, thoughts and tips.





Is it any good? - The short answer is yes, however there are some issues surrounding the installation and build quality.
  • The lighting is fantastic, even without an HID upgrade
  • The screen works well, allowing higher speeds for longer periods
  • The dashboard placement for GPS is perfect
  • Internal space is available for an Autocom or similar intercom




Installation - Relatively straightforward, it took me about 2.5 hours. Care needs to be taken in re-routing the original loom and relays as well as making sure the long metal light adjusters are not going to rub any insulation away. The instructions provided with the kit are adequate but flawed in these 2 areas:
  • I would suggest that you cut the plug off your lights and fit it to the fairing’s loom, rather than follow the instructions and cut the plug from the bike - if you want to re-fit the old unit (maybe when you sell the bike) it is possible to buy the short lighting loom from a KTM dealer and this method leaves the front section of the fairing easy to unplug for removal.
  • The kit includes 2 allen type cap screws to fit the fairing bottom to your lower triple clamp and the instructions tell you to use these rather than the originals. This is wrong for 2 reasons - small screw heads without washers will cut through the composite and no access is available for a ball ended allen driver. I suggest using the original bolts which have built in washers to spread the load and allow access with a combination spanner. If you use the ring end and then alternate the direction of the open end you can eventually do these fasteners up but this is a bad design and I am going to make a QD alloy plate for the bottom of mine.




Build / fit – Given the price of the unit (and the fact that it is marketed as ready to use) this was disappointing but can be fixed:
  • When I first rode with the unit fitted there was vibration at low revs because the profile of the rear dashboard does not accurately follow the inside of the front fairing panel. The bottom corners of the dash needed to be reduced by around 4mm to fix this.
  • With this sorted I rode again but found the unit bounces a lot on bumps, even quite minor ones on the road, and when this happens the front and rear mouldings collide loudly. I have slit and fitted some thick walled fuel hose to the dash panel’s lower edges and this prevents the banging but in the longer term, especially for off road use, the 2 halves need to be joined with a rubber block screwed to each side. I will make something up myself, unless Britannia fairings respond to this issue themselves.

Summary – I would recommend the unit to anyone who is prepared to do the work needed to make it satisfactory but not to someone who wants an out of the box solution.

Note to Britannia - please get in touch about the required improvements - info@stephenpotts.co.uk
Thanks for the feedback on your 690 instal and here's some info on what we've updated recently, which address most of the issues that you came across

1) Good point on the OEM plug for the headlight and will update instructions accordingly.

2) We have recently switched to a Hex head for these as they are much easier to tighten with a ratchet (as you suggest)

3) The dashboards have been modified to avoid this issue. In fact we are having a new design of dashboard made to locate off the front face of the top triple, to avoid having to remove the handlebars. This is to allow for better accomodation of a steering damper and also makes the instal quicker.
I'm a bit concerned about the movement in the fairing that you describe. These units normal mount absolutely solid.

The other significant change since you had yours is the wiring harness. The new harnesses no longer require you to do any wire connections and they also have a ground wire that runs back to the battery along with the power wire, to avoid the need to ground at the headlight area.

Cheers Ian
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