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Old 04-28-2011, 01:53 PM   #49
Eggsontoast
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Joined: May 2010
Location: Dad's sack
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[QUOTE=rivercreep;15779592]
Quote:
In regards to the 96+ upper roller bearings, since I learned on the 91 that Suzuki doesn't know what grease is, while I had everything apart anyway to regrease things...Upon reassembly and with the shock still off, I ran the swingarm through it's range of travel to check for proper chain tension.
What I found out is that Suzukis recommended settings are too tight (with the upper chain roller in place) so that it binds.
I'll be honnest with you, the issues encountered by some regarding the upper chain roller does concern me, but I am not entirely convinced by them either. Riding style, enviroment, physical attributes all play a part.

I ride 90% street, day in day out with 47,000 miles on the clocks; I generally set the chain at 37-40mm as in my view 30mm is too tight when you consider the full suspension travel. 30mm is what you'd want on a roadbike. When taking the bike off road you'd slacken things further as the chain has greater tension/sag acting upon it. The rollers only really start playing their part on the shock's rebound stroke when the chain is very loose and prone to jumping off the sprockets teeth or worse knotting. This is the real catch twenty two. If the suspension is too soft then you have to look at an upgrade so that you can have a consistent setup. I have both rollers fitted with good results.

Tip: If you loose or wear one of your rollers you can make a reasonable replacement using an old skateboard/rollerblade wheel and cutting it down to the appropriate size, coupled with some washers to cup and center the wheel to the chain.


Quote:
Carry a hacksaw (or blade and vise grips) enough rubber hose of the right diameter, and 2 hose clamps and a screwdriver.
Reason, if you smash a hole in that tiny little oil cooler, you can mcguyver a bypass and easily get home without the cooler. I managed to do that on the old 91 and used her for around 10,000 miles with no oil cooler at all. (you can do the same fo the 96+)
Very good tip, thanks. I found that the swage fittings on the front oil hose are prone to crack because of the heat, crud and angle the hose has to work with or agaisnt. I put a jubilee clip on each end up until the replacement arrived. I then wrapped some glass fibre cloth around it to help it reflect some of the heat build up.

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When it comes to the clutch cable if you look head on the cable kinks downward straight past the adjuster/lock-rings. I found that if you route everything as per the manual, bar clamping it against the wiring loom (just behind the front head cowl), that the cable follows the lever's horizontal plane much better before dropping down. Set the lever and holder assemblies to whatever you feel comfortable with and work from there. I regularly oil all the cables, switches and lever points and things run slick. To help things further I smear a touch of grease on each end-cable, whilst packing the small rubber cap of the end guide with additional grease. I'm not trying to make you suck eggs but it's easily overlooked by some to have the adjuster/lock nut slits facing up so that when it rains things get corroded. In any case you should not be having cables snap with those type of miles, if anything the speedo cable will snap long, long before that.

Pat
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Eggsontoast screwed with this post 04-28-2011 at 04:07 PM
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