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Old 05-01-2011, 04:04 AM   #24
vortexau
Outside the Pod-bay
 
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Joined: Feb 2008
Location: Just off the Warrego, S.E. Queensland
Oddometer: 1,633
In the late sixties I inspected brand new BMW models in the showroom of the Qld distributor; Morgan and Wackers. I took home some of the glossy brochures on them- black (or white) R50, R60, & R69. BMW was experimenting with bar-end flashing indicators in that period. These models have quite substantial frames, and even sported ball-shaped sidecar mounts on the Right-hand side (Unfortunately, for Oz).

Its even possible (don't quite remember) that the brochure showed a sidecar, or two.

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Fast-forward to 1969. I looked over the new /5 models; R50/5, R60/5, and R75/5. Took home a thick BMW booklet that "Premiered" the slash 5s. Quite prominent inside, BMW announced that the new frame design meant that owners would have to forgo their use with a sidecar.



In 1971 I had my first BMW; a R50/5 with electric start. This was an extra cost option on the 500cc.

During the years 1974-1985 I was a member of the QLD BMW riders club. Legendary were the occurrences of broken sub-frames, and these mishaps were mainly on solos.

If someone wanted to build-up an outfit, they either used a complete pre-'69 model, or at least shoe-horned the /5, /6 motor into one.

(NB. My current, and first, outfit is my 4th BMW; from R25 to R100RS.)

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From 1973 I owned a Moto Guzzi 850T with the 'Telaio Rosso'-shape frame. This is how to build a strong frame . . . . . not what BMW did with their twin-loop plus bolt on.


Moto Guzzi V7 Sport, with the 'Telaio Rosso' legendary robust build. The 850T shared this frame style.



Two-piece motorcycle frame which can barely cope as a solo.


If I had the money, my R100RS engine would be mounted in a /2-type frame, or even a CJ.
I once rode it around the major holes on a road closed to ordinary traffic. The Ural tub & frame came through unscathed, but . . . . . welds broke at the front of the downtubes, & the upper triple fork plate came close to breaking away on the centre hole.

After that;
● Some welding.
● A set of Perry's reduced trail T-clamps (which are beefier than stock).
● Addition of a cross-brace bridging upper rear-frame connection bolts, which makes battery access more difficult. I'm in the process of changing over to an external (to bike) automobile battery.
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