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Old 07-14-2011, 07:34 AM   #77
YOGOI's Avatar
Joined: Jun 2004
Location: Logan, Utah
Oddometer: 3,480
After a couple of nights in Huacachina we head to Lima. We get a new rear tire in Lima, and find a good hostel for the night. The way you have to battle traffic on the way into and out of Lima his horrific. Cars, trucks, and buses backed up for miles, and who ever wants to push the hardest gets to move 100 feet faster a minute.
The traffic thins as we head into the mnt's. It turns into the high plains, foggy cold and rainy.
We take a side trip to San Ramon. We drop from the high mnt plains down to the jungle. The vegetation changes drastically as it gets warmer and warmer. We find a camp that has a way for us to get out of the rain for the night. This is how I pictured Peru, hot and muggy in the jungle. Its a nice camp by the river.

We head back up out of the jungle and continue north to Huanuco for the night. In the morning we find a place to do a quick oil change, and then we head west on the small mnt road toward Huaraz.

Out on this lonely dirt road (just out side of (La Union) we pass a truck with about 4 police, and we get stopped.
One guy gets out and comes over to us. He tells us that it is very dangerous for us to be riding in the rain on these slippery roads. but he is here to protect us.
Then he asks for out paper work.
Not a problem.
Then he asks for our insurance.
After playing dumb for a while, we say we dont have it, and we should not need it.
He says we do, and we say we are international travelers and we dont.
We politely go back and forth on this for a while.
Then he says our head light is out.
US: No, its fine (as I turn the bike on).
Then he asks to see our blinkers.
Then or break light.
HIM: OK, the bike is good, but you need insurance.
US: OK where can we get insurance.
HIM: you have to get it at the boarder.
US: can we get it in town
HIM: no.
US: well, what do we do
HIM: you pay me
US: how much
HIM: 100 soles ($30)
US: we dont have that much
HIM: OK, 50 soles
We give him the 50 soles and then he says that we are brothers.
Then he askes us if we have enough gas to get to were we are headed.
US: no.
He has us turn on the bike and looks at our gas gauge.
HIM: Aw, you'll be fine.
US: no, we have a long way to go.
He pulls the money out that we gave him and gives us 10 soles back for gas.
He then asks if we had a video camera.
US: NO, but we do have a camera. Can we take your picture. We are brothers.
He gets a little serious, and says no pictures, and goes back to the truck were his buddies have been the whole time, and they leave.

We new what was going down as soon as he started asking for insurance (you dont need it in Peru). We kept everything respectful, and he was never threatening. He did say he was going to keep my international license if we did not get insurance.
We feel bad that we had to contribute to this type of corruption. We really did only have 60 soles on us at the time, and are glad that he was happy with basically 12 dollars. What really sucks is that there are some really pore people that dont really have a way to make a living in Peru. This guy has a job that pays.

Anyway, we continue on, but we are not going to make it to Huaraz today.

We try to push through the snow storm, but we cant, and my fingers are colder than they have ever been, ever. We pass a semi going the other direction that I swear, swerved in order to put his tires in the position to just completely cover us with slushy ice and snow.
We retreat back to a small town called Huansla for the night, and are able to make the mnt pass the next day.


Any bike can be taken off road. The question is; How much fun did you have doing it?

04 950 GO!!!!! 2011 250 XC 89 Transalp 69 350 CL 04 225 XT

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