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Old 09-10-2011, 06:28 PM   #2
The Other JC OP
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Joined: Apr 2010
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Oddometer: 184
R1200GS Adv oil leak - bike split

R1200GS Adv oil leak - bike split

---Split the bike

I was up bright and early for the start. I had this idea that I would have the bike apart by early afternoon. hahaha. Silly me.



I set a very slow pace, carefully photographing the procedure and replacing screws into holes as I went along, rather than trying to remember which went where, going slow to remember how it all went together.



Its also a surprisingly physical job, and I was aching after the first day.
I followed the RepROM procedure most of the way, detouring only where appropriate.




  • I kept the sump crash guard on
  • Remove exhast silencer
  • Next, rear wheel spray guard
  • Undo injection valves, remove Oteiker clamps left and right side where connected to airbox hose, remove left throttle body for access to the frame bolts.
  • Disengage throttle cable divider from air intake box
  • Remove start motor cover. It was a pain to get the starter motor cover out and I would recommend leaving it in place until the bike split when it will be much easier to remove.
  • Undo gear linkage lever. You should still be able to get to the gear lever circlip OK to undo the linkage with the starter motor cover still in place, rather than undoing the bolt and sliding it off the gear change spline. The gear lever linkage is attached to the rear frame, so needs to be unlinked to split the frames.
  • Remove clutch slave cylinder from rear of gearbox. Carefully undo each screw together for an even removal. I read of someone removing the rear spring to get theirs out recently. I just used an extension with a u-joint to get round the spring.
  • At this point the RepROM says remove the rear mudguard. I tried, but it was going to be messy, so I took this threads tack and simply removed the rear rack. Much better option.
  • Remove the rear wiring cluster and loom to the front of the bike, cut all the cables ties on the frame.
  • I do not have ABS so did not need to touch the rear break unit at all.

Start to remove the wiring from the rear of the bike taking photos for later reference




I paid close attention to the wiring and nylon ties for the rebuild, and where the wires came through the frame like the two below middle left - easy to forget this stuff.. as I found out later even with photos!.




Being outside in winter the days are short and I was packing up after stripping the bike ready for the split the following morning.




================================================== =========
Day 2 I awoke to rain. :(. Mid morning I set up a tarp to cover the arse of the bike hanging out the shed. Fortunately it was not windy.




Securing the bike for the split took a bit longer than expected. I am not a great knot tier but eventually had her hanging from the rafters at the handlebars.
Place trolly jack under the bike to take the weight of the front section. I put the trolly jack on some wood to stop it rolling unexpectedly.
Cut the remainder nylon ties and remove the wiring loom off the sides of the bike, making careful note of all the cable ties.




And so the split begins. Remove the first top bolt either side and insert the studs to hold the front frame in place on the engine block - seen here on left side between my fingers after the rear frame was pulled away , cannot remember what I was pointing at here, I think my fingers shifted focus when I took the shot.




Next loosen the frame bolt at the back and bottom of the gearbox, tricky to get to that one. Then the other 4 bolts top and bottom of the frame. Remove the 5 bolts, double check all the wiring is cut loose from ties and fixtures.




Time for the split. Walk round and grab the rear of the bike and pull centimeter by centimeter, checking at each move for any snagging. This was easily accomplished on my own.
After the first tug... the split begins.. At this point I thought I would be able to save myself stripping the drive shaft and so worked to remove the shaft at the gearbox end as I split the frame.



The centrestand will not fold under itself going backwards so you are safe to tug the frame backwards. As the rear frame cleared the front, the front lolled to the side, I re-tie the rope better with a wider reach on the rafters to help stabilize her.




The back comes off at a slight angle to avoid the exhaust scraping on the center stand bracketing.



A few tugs and checks for wiring later and she's well apart. You can easily move the rear around, just pick up at front and move like a wheel barrow - but careful so you don't lose balance!.



A cold and wet day I finished when the bike was apart and hanging securely. It was mid afternoon and the next phase was a bit too long for the rest of the light in the sky to leave at a satisfactory place, plus my body was aching and a long hot soak in the bath was in order!



At his point I assisted the trolley jack with some wood blocks to support the bike.. did not want the trolly jack dropping the bike slowly over the following week. Wrapped her back up in a blanket to keep the wind and damp out, and dropped the sheeting over the front of the shed opening.

The Other JC screwed with this post 08-03-2012 at 06:28 PM Reason: link to petrol tank removal thread
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