View Single Post
Old 09-18-2011, 08:59 PM   #99
tenderfoot
PRJ
 
tenderfoot's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2006
Location: Gauteng, RSA
Oddometer: 1,446
Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwhacker View Post
If anyone has any better ideas, I'm all ears.
I don't know if it's a better idea, maybe an alternative.

First off, I'm no engine rebuilder my experience is of the more brutal steelmill maintenance kind.

So, I would start considering jacking the bloody thing off using one of those small Enerpac type hydraulic jacks.

The pistons don't appear to be at TDC so if you loosen the cylinder bolts on both sides, the crank should rotate enough to establish a gap between the crank case and the bottom of the cylinder.

If the gap is large enough for two pieces of stout flatbar to be inserted one above the other below the conrod, I woul use these a bases to attach long enough pieces of threaded bar sticking out past the cylinder.
So now you have four long bolts (one on each end of the flatbars) sticking out past the cylinder. Fabricate some kind of base connecting the four studs and use this to anchor the jack.
Ideally you should use a pipe which just fits inside the cylinder to apply the force evenly on the circumference of the piston as a concentrated point loading may cause damage.
edit: Once you've established a decent force onto the piston insert a steelrod onto the back of the pipe and give it a sharp whack with a hammer. Sometimes you just need that initial micron of movement for the seize to break free.
Don't be tempted to use the headbolts as jack base attachment points, it would be a catastrophe if you were to strip them.

Better advice may be to just take your problem to the Garage section, those guys know what they talk about.

tenderfoot screwed with this post 09-18-2011 at 09:14 PM
tenderfoot is offline   Reply With Quote