Started out the day on the drill press and grinder.
Creating a crank locking pin.
Creating a shim holder.
First parts of the day: radiator brackets.
Remove the heat shield.
Next to go is the side stand kill switch. Trace the wire up to the middle of the bike.
Drop the left foot rest mounting plate.
Here she is on the bench.
Ooops. Did I do that?
No more side stand kill switch. No wire to fight during reassembly. Plug is back in place. Wire the red and white together and seal it all with shrink tubing.
Pull coils next. Mine came out by hand. No tool required. Book says not to unplug the coils.
Unplug oil pressure switch and coolant-temp sensor (vicinity cam chain tensioner).
Unscrew ground wire.
Unhook throttle cable.
Disconnect injection valve plugs.
Throttle valve potentiometer plug. (right side)
Clip a bunch of zip ties. Three on this bar. You are not removing the assembly just moving it a little.
Release the clamps on the air intake ducts and plug the ducts. I used shop towels. The clamps have a special tool associate. I used needle nosed pliers.
Disengage clutch cable.
Separate pressure modulator from the retaining plate. This was a bit confusing at first. But simple in the end. There is a plate with a hole in the middle affixed to the engine. This module is grommeted to it. Pop it up out of the plate. The module stays with the bike.
Release the brake lever pin.
Unscrew and remove brake lever. Watch the spring.
Release the brake lines. They stay but it gives some flex when the engine drops.
Tape up the engine forward edges and the frame rails. It would help if the engine were cleaner. The tape wasn’t sticking. Note the ratchet strap in the center of the pic. At this point I moved them from the handle bars where they were initially to this point which is what BMW shows in the book.
Remove left side frame bolts. (There are three but I only have two left because my engine guards used one and that came off as the first item of business on day 1).
Remove right side frame bolts. Note spacers on this side. At all three points.
I put a strap around the front of the engine not wanting it to pitch forward when released from the last bolt. Wasn’t an issue though.
Floor jack was in place all night. Now we use it to lower the engine. The unmounted tire was there to act as a bumper. Again not necessary.
The back of the engine is in conflict with the frame at this point. So a straight drop is not possible.
So the come along is used one click at a time to raise the frame and allows us to push it back away from the engine.
I estimate the weight at around 150lbs.
Now she looks ill.
Removing the ABS pressure-modulator bracket.
Here’s another look at the modulator. Note the rubber plug on the bottom. That’s what you have to pop up when releasing the brake lines earlier.
Next phase is clean up of the engine and then I open her up. Time to remove engine was 7 hours 45 minutes.
According to BMW, apparently I now have 15 minutes theft to repair the cam chain and reinstall the engine.