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Old 10-28-2011, 03:34 AM   #39
concours
WFO for 41 years
 
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Joined: Dec 2008
Location: Kensington, NH USA
Oddometer: 5,073
Quote:
Originally Posted by woody's wheel works View Post
most folks here have chimed in with some solid suggestions namely:

1,,have the proper tools for the job which includes phillips screwdriver bits that fit

2,, if you don't mind having a plain aluminum carb,,well then soak your carb in the berrymans,,because an hour or more it will act like a paint-stripper and all the black will just melt and wash off when you rinse

3,,heat and compressed air and a hand held impact are the restorers best allies,,don't have hand held impact ,,no sweat ,ya can improvise by using your screwdriver and a leather/plastic mallet and giving the screw a good wack using the proper bit of course,,,some screw drivers have a little hex bolt head near the handle ,,,that's so you can put the box end of wrench and use it for leverage[make sure ya really push in to the screw with your handle before slowly attempting to bust it loose...FYI,,,no hex head on screwdriver,,ya can always improvise with some channel locks or vise grips.. i use a dedicated beater screwdriver with a good tip.

4,,the sticking float bowel,,Rx=spray a little carb cleaner around the perimeter by the gasket,,next squirt some carb cleaner into the fuel spigot and slosh it around so the gasket gets soaked inside and out,,,let it soak for 20 minutes applying a little more cleaner if it looks dried out,,,next grab the carb in your palm and with a plastic mallet rap the lower edge of the float bowel..that'll do it most of the time...escalating the pressure i mov eon to holding the carb sometimes i take a shop rag and wrap the carb why??? because i'm going to apply a little compressed air into the fuel spigot with one of those air guns that has a pointed rubber tip on it [harbor freight has em for circa $5],,,,and i don't want the float bowel to go flying across the room when it pops off

5,, at this stage you can do a pre- soak n clean or you can just go for removing all the jets and components,,,the pilot jet warrants a small slender common screwdriver that has a head that is pretty close to the diameter of the hole[i usually have to modify the screwdriver by grinding the part of the blade off so that i have maximum purchase on the jet]
the bit about finding the slot of the pilot jet and the giving the lil screwdriver a little rap works wonders at loosening it

6,,the pilot jet hole is so tiny ,,,about the diameter of a bristle on a wire brush[use the bristle to unplug the dirt n gunk that's built up in the orifice,,,blow out with compressed air,,this applies to all the other jets in th ecarb

you'll know if those jets are plugged because your bike will start but consisntently die when you return your enrichening lever to the off position

7,,warning,,do not mix up your float bowels or your carb slides !!!they have dedicated left and right components that can be swapped with dismaying results...like your enrichening system won't work [reversed float bowels,,,or you'll flood the motor with the slides reversed and so on

that should get ya in and out of the woods

woody
We call those "panel" or "cabinet" screwdrivers http://wihatools.com/300seri/302serie.htm

The bowls and slides are identical for both sides.

Study a diagram before you begin, it'll help you understand the assembly. http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmot...7510#sch209372
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